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cnskate
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 9:06 am    Post subject: Premium gas and mountain climbing Reply with quote

I'm taking my FI 2.0 from sea level to 6000 feet tomorrow, wondering if I should switch form 87 to 91 octane to save a few degrees temp on the climb? Wish me luck.
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ratwell
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

VW supposedly configued buses for high altitude whenever the city was above 4000 ft.

Your octane requirement should decrease as you climb. I believe regular in Colorado is 85 so if you filled up with 87 at sea level that like running mid-grade at altitude.

Depending on how fast you climb, 87 should be fine.
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cnskate
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the tip Ratwell. There are some serious climbs on the North Cascade Highway, would I be running cooler by going slow and steady in second as opposed to just hanging on to the edge of the powerband in third?
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Hippopotabus
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I drive every weekend to Yosemite Valley in the Sierra's. I climb grades and elavation and never once adjusted carbs. But the one thing I notice is better performance with 91 Oct. Now before everyone goes off on what "VW says" this is my opionion based on daily driving + weekends at altitude.

Also you have FI and that may make a difference. Just my experienced 2 cnts. Wink
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally I prefer to hang hang back in a lower gear but without winding it up too much, and let them ponies run. I do like to keep a little in my pocket so that if I need it, I will have it.

About 3400-3600 RPMs generally works pretty well for me. I shift down if I can hold onto about 3000.

You like to be pumping the air around in there with that big fan you've got.
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ratwell
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cnskate wrote:
There are some serious climbs on the North Cascade Highway, would I be running cooler by going slow and steady in second as opposed to just hanging on to the edge of the powerband in third?

High rpms in 2nd would be better than low rpms in 3rd. If you are in 3rd and have to hold the pedal about half way down to maintain your hill climbing speed you will heat up the heads.

The way the gearbox is designed, anytime you switch to a lower gear you get more torque out of the engine.
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cnskate
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips guys, my chances of a happy trip are improving me thinks.

On a somber note, how does one know that they have dropped a valve seat?
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
High rpms in 2nd would be better than low rpms in 3rd. If you are in 3rd and have to hold the pedal about half way down to maintain your hill climbing speed you will heat up the heads.


Spoken like a true Air-cooled Mountain Man.

TOUGHEST MOUNTAIN PASSES CLIMBED BY A HIPPO
1) The EVIL Evil or Very Mad Sonora Pass - 26% grade at 7,800 ft 1st gear all the way (8miles) 1 mandatory pull over (smoke em if ya got em) Wink

2) Tioga Pass - 18 to 20% grade at 7,000 ft 1st and 2nd gear with a mandatory pull over after the 1st 7 miles.

3) Priest Grade (Groveland) - 15% grade at 4,500ft in 2nd gear most of the way.

Also anytime you have to push a grade DO IT AT NIGHT. Cooler ambient temps do wonders to your heads and oil temps.
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ratwell
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cnskate wrote:
On a somber note, how does one know that they have dropped a valve seat?

The valve stem is sticking out further than the other ones (unless they have all dropped!)
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cnskate
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went over Sonora pass in my old 83 Subie wagon, floored in first doing 10 mph tops. I thought I was going to have to do it in reverse for a moment there.
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Hippopotabus
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SICKEST CLIMB! Shocked Shocked

Surprised "I don't know commander, I'm givin her all she's got".

Mad "DAMN IT! SCOTTY I need more"

Surprised "I just can't doooo it captn, the rubber band is gonna blow"

Its what plays in my head anytime I'm climbing grades. And the voices are scottish.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was just trying to get across town on our outter loop today... and I felt like an old fart with all the trucks going around me.

I dont think octane has much to do with it at all, I know I BURNED 1/2 a tank of gas driving for about 2 hours, petal mashed to the floor.

I also had.... "I'm givin 'er all she's got cap'in" in my mind as people stared, (some waived) and drove past. It seemed like an awful lot of gas wasted, and at the price of gas today Shocked

I would stick with regular if your on a budget.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't noticed much difference here in Colorado re: fuel grades. I can get like a quarter degree of advance over the 8* that I'm at now before pinging under load. *shrug*

I came out here running regular unleaded the whole way. No problems even over Raton pass or the long slow climb out of Albuquerque.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

North Cascade highway... beautiful country! Have a great trip.

J.R.
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Hippopotabus
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
petal mashed to the floor


Not to start anything, cause I can apprciate your statment. But you should never have to "mash" the pedal to the floor. Once I get past the 1/2 position of my pedal (1/2 way between fully upright and the floor) I normally back off. I drive my bus like I have an egg under the pedal. Too hard and you'll crush something in the engine room. To soft and you'll "lug" the motor (Bad). Also when I drive with 87 oct the engine is not as responsive. With 91 or 92 oct I can feel a distinct difference.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mandatory Pullovers:

How long do you cats suggest one sits and takes a break during these pullovers?

Just wonderin' I've got my first major trip in my bus next week/end and with what the temps have been around here lately (90+ degrees) i just know i'll be needing to pullover occassionally and giving her a rest.

20 minutes? Half hour? . . . longer?
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hippopotabus wrote:
Quote:
petal mashed to the floor


Not to start anything, cause I can apprciate your statment. But you should never have to "mash" the pedal to the floor. Once I get past the 1/2 position of my pedal (1/2 way between fully upright and the floor) I normally back off. I drive my bus like I have an egg under the pedal. Too hard and you'll crush something in the engine room. To soft and you'll "lug" the motor (Bad). Also when I drive with 87 oct the engine is not as responsive. With 91 or 92 oct I can feel a distinct difference.


Your right, its not something I should do, I had a urgent meeting I was tyring not to be late for. I was just trying to get a few miles faster. Normally, I dont have to go anywhere that quickly.

I do not advise this poor bus treatment...
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aandrew71 wrote:
Mandatory Pullovers:

How long do you cats suggest one sits and takes a break during these pullovers?

Just wonderin' I've got my first major trip in my bus next week/end and with what the temps have been around here lately (90+ degrees) i just know i'll be needing to pullover occassionally and giving her a rest.

20 minutes? Half hour? . . . longer?


Depends on lots of variables. How well is your engine in tune? Climbing lots of hills? Headwinds? etc. etc.

Without gauges it's hard to know when to take a break. I think you have to use your best judgement and just know your bus. I do know that I never just pull over and turn the engine off after a long run or hill climb. That is when the temps are the highest and the heat soak will heat everything up in a hurry without some airflow. I will slow down for ten minutes or so and then let the engine run at a few hundred rpms higher than normal idle for a couple minutes to let things cool off a bit before shutting it down. Then lift the engine hatch to help the hot air escape the engine bay. Just make sure you close it before you take off again. I find that the oil cools down fairly quickly(15 min. or so)after shut down but the heads can stay hot for quite some time. I would say that a half hour rest is plenty though.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MotorMom wrote:
I was just trying to get across town on our outter loop today... and I felt like an old fart with all the trucks going around me.

I dont think octane has much to do with it at all, I know I BURNED 1/2 a tank of gas driving for about 2 hours, petal mashed to the floor.

I also had.... "I'm givin 'er all she's got cap'in" in my mind as people stared, (some waived) and drove past. It seemed like an awful lot of gas wasted, and at the price of gas today Shocked

I would stick with regular if your on a budget.


I think I got stuck behind you today!
geeze, busses are so slow.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

westy78 wrote:
I would say that a half hour rest is plenty though.


Hmm... Sunday I did a long-ish drive uphill and when I pulled off for gas (while dealing with another problem) I noticed that the clips on my distributor were too hot to touch. I was there for more than half an hour and they were still hot when I checked before taking off again.

Is that kind of heat at the distributor normal? The fan shroud was hot as well, but the dipstick was nice and cool.

*confused*
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