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oil light comes on
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lordsniff
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 8:21 pm    Post subject: oil light comes on Reply with quote

87 Syncro . When I start up everything is OK , but when I increase the revs the oil warning light and buzzer come on . If I switch off and start up straight away the light is out . If I rev the light comes on again . Fresh oil is in with new filter . Any ideas .
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r39o
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Either your water is low or sensor is bad. Or your dynamic oil pressure system is trying to alarm. Usual thing is bad sensors.

If after you rule out sensors, you should check your oil pressure and cooling system to be sure. In fact it is a darn good idea to check those things for peace of mind.
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walrus
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't see how the water level is pertinent.

You have two oil pressure sensors. The low pressure one is for idle and on drivers side between push tubes. The high pressure works over 2k rpm and is at the rear under the crank pulley and to the left. That is the one that is not working when you rev it.
http://www.benplace.com/oil_pressure_sender.htm
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Last edited by walrus on Sat Sep 24, 2005 11:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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lordsniff
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks walrus. could this happen cos it has sae 30 oil in it ? the problem is the engine doesnt have to be warm even to get the oil light on . as soon as it revs above 2-2 1/2 it starts to flash . I will check the sensors , but as this is a recent rebuild I dont think (fingers crossed) that there is anything wrong internally .
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walrus
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 11:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oil pressure is actually higher on a cold engine. About 55lbs at idle. About 10 on a hot one. Check this link.
http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/survey.htm
Good excuse to get a pressure guage. I can tell you where to find one as I did it recently. Nice to hear you have a syncro. I need to replace that sensor as well. Even bought a deep socket for it and have all the parts in the back of the van for a rainy day. I think skid plate may be in the way. It is hard to see that bugger. Since you have a recent rebuild the wire may be broken or possibly come off the sensor. Goofy simple stuff I hope.
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lordsniff
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah , the PO did all the work but messed up putting it back together . The main oil seal was shredded in the bell housing , the dizzy is 180 degrees out , the brake hose was taped up out of the way and many connections are doubtful . I have the skidplate off because I just put the trannie back in so I will be checking that one out . Many thanks yet again .
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lordsniff
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2005 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

walrus wrote:
Even bought a deep socket for it and have all the parts in the back of the van for a rainy day. I think skid plate may be in the way.





On all the sites I have checked it would seem that the only way to the sensor is to remove the water pump pulley and get to it that way .I have looked and it looks impossible . Shocked
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89dk
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2005 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had that light and buzzer issue and assumed the worst. When I couldn't figure out the problem I took it in. Turns out that the sensor wire had simply fallen across the header and was shorting out.
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BavarianWrench
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2005 5:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need to read the links. On my recent syncro purchase, 48,000 original miles. My buzzer was going off after cold start up as soon as you passed 2k rpm. In my fearfull fiddelling I had the engine warming up at idle as I checked things out. Once the engine was warm the buzzer quit buzzing. I bought the van very late at night, funny story for another time. It was already warm when I got it. The next day I find this buzzer problem. I was a little concerned about having just bought a blown engine. I checked the oil and it looked like it had many years on it. I heard the van had been sitting for about 6 years. In the dark late night I just checked the oil level and made sure the coolant looked good. When cold the oil was like grease. I drained it hot put some ATF and engine oil in ran it till warm again then drained it again, filling with synthetic. It runs awsome and has no buzzer going off now I just figured it had a high psi sensor as well. Oil always thins when hot so psi would drop. The buzzer stopping when warm made me doubt it was a low oil psi problem. I should really learn how the system works. I looked at the sensor on mine, looked like a real pain in the ___ to change, or put a gauge on. Let us know what you find out. Your running some thin oil already you may have a stuck oil pressure relief valve? If there is a high psi sensor? I know one of you out there knows the answer.

Last edited by BavarianWrench on Tue Sep 27, 2005 10:27 pm; edited 1 time in total
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mrbatzloff
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2005 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the same problem I've been having, no buzzer until 2000rpm. Mine goes away after it warms (idling or driving). I'm running fresh 20-50. Does your buzzer sound all of the time? I haven't figured anything out yet, just here to empathize, really.
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EXITSTRATEGY
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 11, 2006 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmmm, familiar?
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mrbatzloff
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since putting the 20-50 in my buzzer's only come on once and then only briefly (when cold). Also, the buzzer after prolonged highway speeds/hard work hasn't come back either. And, for the record, I've been using Wix filters.
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lordsniff (do we call you Sir?), the others may have different problems, but here's a test you can do:

Pull the connector from the 0.9bar oil pressure sensor (the one behind the pulley that's so inaccessible). This switch is normally open circuit and closes at 0.9bar (12.6psi) pressure, thereby grounding that brown wire. So pull the wire and jumper it firmly to ground. Start the engine and rev it over 2000rpm.

No more buzzer? Put in a new switch. It is still open circuit at pressure.

Still got a buzzer? Make sure that you do not have an open circuit between the pressure warning system processor, which is mounted in the speedometer, and the brown sensor wire. Ground the sensor wire and test for continuity from terminal #12 in the 14-point instrument cluster connector to ground. If it is open circuit, the wire is broken or detached somewhere on its way to the engine. It also passes thru the fuse panel and then thru a 7-point connector in the wiring junction box, left side forward wall of engine compartment.

There is a detailed troubleshooting flowchart beginning on p.90.24 in Bentley if that doesn't do the trick.
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EXITSTRATEGY
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2006 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

in the bentley!?! really?
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Benjamin Schott
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 5:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, here it goes. Rather than start a new thread, I will add to the sticky, hope thats alright.

The symptom: I am cruising around the other night, just because it is snowing and I like driving the 86 syncro in the snow...who doesn't. I pulled into a trailhead just to have some fun in the deeper snow, and got pulled off into a drift to where I couldn't go forward anymore. Put it in reverse, slipped a little bit (damn TA's in the snow) but after just a very little spinning they locked up and I popped right out, but almost immediatly after I backed up, my oil light started blinking, but no buzzer. Got out and looked for oil on the ground, nothing, checked oil and it was fine. I was less than a mile from home so I chanced it and got home. Bought both new sensors and replaced them (PITA), still no change. Borrow pressure gauge, 60psi, so thats fine. Replaced wires from sensors up to th plastic connector where the two meet in the engine bay and head up thru the fire wall, still the same.

When I turn the key to "on", the light blinks once very quickly and goes out, then blinks as soon as I turn the engine on, and keeps blinking no matter what the revs, or how warm or cold the engine is. With the blinking and no buzzer, this is the low pressure signal between the pushrod tubes, right? Anybody have any suggestions as to where I need to go from here. I was thinking maybe I pulled a wire loose or something in the snowbank, but the wires don't run under the van do they? Any direction would he helpful....THANX.

Benjamin
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First off, there's a flowchart on Bentley p.90.24 to troubleshoot this system.

I think you're right that it is probably a short to ground on the low pressure signal wire. To start with, I would run down some continuity checks in the signal wiring.

Get behind your instrument cluster and pull off the 14-pin connector. The pins are numbered from the passenger side being #1, to #14 being on the drivers side end. You will be checking pins 13 and 12, the 2nd and 3rd respectively from the drivers side.

Unplug both sensor wires from the 2-pin connector in the engine compartment. Now connect one probe of your ohmmeter to ground, and probe pins 12 and 13. Neither should have continuity to ground.

Now jumper to ground each of the two pins at the engine bay connector. Test 12 and 13 again. Now each should have continuity to ground when their respective pins are grounded at the back. 12 should correspond to the yellow wire, 13 is the blue/black.

My guess is that you will find something wrong during these tests, so I'm not going to go further. What you most likely will find is that pin 13 is shorted to ground, i.e. pin 13 has continuity to ground even when the blue/black wire at the 2-pin is not grounded.

Both wires go from the 2-pin connector to a 7-pin in the wiring compartment on the left front wall of the engine bay. From there, they enter the main harness and have no other junctions until they reach the main fuse panel.

Tell us what you find out.
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