Swing Axle and Suspension Question

[vrsechslvr]

I originally posted this in the Performance area, but I feel that I may get a better response in here as it's a swing-axle application. Thanks for looking.......

As some of you have noticed by reading my past posts that I'm having a trans built by KCR for my '60. Originally I was having the trans built without axles but the more I think about it, I just want to drop it in and not mess with swapping them.
I was thinking of upgrading to Sway-Away as they are the most common for the swing axle. I read a few days ago in another post that short swing axles can be swapped for longer, later ones, '67-'68. If I have KCR add the axles and tubes with new bearings, bushings etc, from a '67-'68 spec will I have to add anything else?

On a side note regarding suspension......at the same time I install the trans I will also be adding a camber compensator and other suspention mods. I looked at the CSP site and was attracted to the German feel. But Sway-Away also has a great reputation for suspension upgrades for the bug.
Which would you choose, CSP or Sway-Away?
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[vicsvw]

NO Problem, As long as the outer axel tub assy. and axels are both changed you are OK. See #1 & #2 http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/0.suspension_rear.sa.htm
(added) Yes the end castings and axel tub.

[vrsechslvr]

Thanks Vic. I also read that the end castings? need to be retained from the '67-'68. Does that sound right?
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[Oldnslow]

Why would you want the long axles. I take it from your avatar that you may be lowering the car and you also need to take into consideration what type of rims and tires you'll be using. Even with stock rims, the wheels are almost sticking out of the wheel wells and it get worse with aftermarket rims. I don't think you want the tires sticking out of the wheel wells.
You also need to do a search for 1960 bugs with swapping to a syncro trans. I remember that 1960 was a one year only front trans mount but can't remember what the solution was. Seems you have to weld in a Berg mount to the front of the frame horn or something like that. there was a long post on this within the past 6 months and I think it was in the beetle section. Maybe Glenn or one of the others with a better memory can remember where or when the post was. Ha!! maybe it was you.

[vrsechslvr]

Nope. Wasn't me.

But since the '60 was a 1 year only mount and I'll be mounting a newer trans I will have to use the Berg mid-mount. It sucks 'cus I have to take it somewhere to have it welded.

The reason I ask about swapping for longer axles is due to the current wheel size. When I bought the car it came with Porsche 'phone-dial' rims and must use a spacer and bolt-pattern adapters in the rear to clear the suspension. When reading the post, someone stated that it could increase the track on each side by an inch or so. Thus eliminating the need for spacers and bolt pattern adapters (Rear disks are in the future and I would like to have a Porsche pattern instead of stock w/adapters).

I would like to explore this option more since I'm having the trans built. Unfortunatly I need to tell KCR on monday what I decide to do. This idea came late in the game and I don't want to hold Kevin up with my build. Any suggestions, comments or recommedations are greatly appreciated guys (and girls).
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[Oldnslow]

I'm sure if you tell KCR all the details about what rims and what year car you have, they will be able to tell you what you need. Those guys didn't just roll off the turnip truck and know their stuff. You might ask them about disc brakes for the future. It would be nice if you posted what info you find out for others to use.
I knew "phonedials" had a lot of negative offset but not that much. what you were saying makes a lot more sense.

[renderit]

66 down is short-short which is good if you wheels have a lot of offset like older GM rear wheel drive, etc. If you are using (for example) new vw wheels off the net they have very little offset (.42 comes to mind) so the wheel has a ton of backspace. On a 66 down this means you hit the swingarms in the back. Putting a 67 axle and ends pushes them out to clear and keeps the stock drums (narrow). 68+ does the same thing but then you need wider drums/different disks. Hope this helps, I have been researching this for several months now. Samba has been most helpfull an also Pete at airkewld.com.

[vrsechslvr]

Okay Samba peeps, I spoke with Kevin at KCR and heres the conclusion to the axle question.

'67-'67 axles are longer than the '66 down and will bolt right up with no modifications. However you need to consider if you will be using 4-lug or 5-lug brakes. Since I'll be retaining my 5-lug bolt pattern at the moment, I'll be using the '67 axles. If I went to '68 I would have to change over to a 4-lug pattern. This combination will reduce the amount of spacing that is required to use my current rim setup. Final measurments will be made after it arrives.

Also, I read in a post that the '66 down axles are stronger than '67-'68 and he sqashed that theory (no to say that some have their own opinions, just adding what Kevin said).

I have asked to have Sway-Away axles installed at this time with new bearings, seals, etc. The trans should be ready by the end of the week. I'll keep you all posted.

Thanks for all the replies.
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[bpoogas]

I put "long axles" on my '65. Stock wheels, Stock fenders. They work great.
I'm planning on getting some 7" or 8" wide Porsche Wheels in the future and I've been told my wheels would rub on the springplates without long axles or really fat spacers. My rear wheels will still roll when it's dropped too (with the stock wheels)

Raised up

[4pumpedCL]

If you're interested, I have some long axles from a 67 that I'll trade for your short ones.

[vrsechslvr]