Eurovan Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

[seiferthj]

Anyone here done this- any hints/special tools actually needed? I've gotta do my breaks anyway and there's a sound like tire noice basically all the time so I figure the bearings are shot. ('93 MV with 162k on it).

Thanks,
Justin

[mightyart]

It's front wheel drive, so I don't think it's that easy.
Have you got the Eurovan Bentley?
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0837...p;n=507846
I've never messed with a Eurovan so I'm not much help. But with front wheel drive cars with noise coming from the front check the CV joints first. most sound like clicking. Check the rubber boots, if you have any breaks in the boots they need to be delt with. I'm not saying it couldn't be your bearings, but there are other things that can go out before the bearings, and a Eurovan is different from a Vanagon in that everything is up front, lot's of stuff to make noise up there.
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[seiferthj]

I do have bentleys- the CD version which was a big mistake. I however find books usually bordering useless except for torque specs, etc so I always ask around before diving into something- so I don't end up in the middle of it with an immobile van...

The CV boots are good and the noice is more of a tire-like rumbling. I haven't had wheel bearing problems before but from what I've been able to tell this sounds like a bearing issue.

Justin

[walrus]

Have you wiggled the tire?
Commonly the whole axle housing has to come off and then the bearing pressed out after removing the seals and a circlip. Then you need an alignment. Although some shops may have a bearing press tool that can be used on the housing while it is mounted.
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1991 Jetta gli

[billy bee]

Noob here. Never done this on an EV, but I have done tons of FWD brgs. It is not very hard but does require some special equipment, like a press and some require snap ring pliers.

You can sometimes check the wheel for play to determine a bad brg; but b/c the brg is sealed and held together by the axle, knuckle, snap rings, axle nut and washer combo, it can be hard to get a good read. Your best guage is your ears. When they start to go bad, they make a growling sound, usually in corners. A bad RF brg will growl in a LH turn and vice versa. Eventually, they will growl all the time.

To replace it, the steering knuckle has to come out. On older Audis (and VWs?) the strut came with it. So, you had to remove the caliper, tie rod, ball joint, axle, and upper strut bolt from the strut/knuckle combo. Then you press out the hub, which breaks the bearing apart. Usually an inner bearing race stays on the hub. You need to grind two slots in it and crack it off with a chisel, without damaging the hub...not as hard as it sounds, really.

Then, pop out the snap ring, which retains the brg in the knuckle. IIRC, the Audis and VWs had snap rings on either side of the brg. It is a little easier to press the brg out with both snap rings removed. Press out the bearing, press in the new bearing, making sure it goes in straight. Reinstall the snap ring(s), press the hub in, supporting the inner race from behind, and reinstall in the car.

Again, not sure about the EV, but on most cars, the knuckle is bolted to the strut and can be removed without removing the strut. Also, I understand the EV has torsion bar ft springs, meaning the control arm will have spring tension on it. Hell, it may have two ctl arms, upper and lower, and no strut at all. No matter, the knuckle/hub assembly has to come out for the operation. There are just varying ways to remove it depending on the type of front suspension you are dealing with.

Depending on the type of suspension you have, you may or may not need an alignment...

Provided all goes well, it takes about an hour. I could do it in about 20 minutes on my old race cars b/c: 1) I did it so often; and 2) I worked on the front end so much that everything came apart freely. Never a problem with corrosion or sticktion.

Hope this helps. I'll try to find a diagram of a EV front suspension and report back with more specifics if you are interested.

BillB

[billy bee]

Found this diagram from a MY 2000 EV...I gather it is somewhat different than the earlier models as there are some different part numbers fpr some of the parts:
http://users.ev1.net/~priest/rialta/vw/parts_diagrams/pages/VAG10946.htm

The front suspension has upper and lower ctl arms (track bars). Looks like the knuckle will come away relatively easily. A few simple caveats: 1) as the upper ctl arm is sprung, there will be constant downward pressure on it, which has to be eased. I'd probably us a BAPB (Big Ass Pry Bar) to pry it up and drop the knuckle off. 2) The knuckle looks like it can come out with out changing alignment settings; however, there is an eccentric bushing on the upper ball joint that looks like it would change the camber settings, and hence toe, so, I'd leave that alone.

I am buying a 1995 EV Winnie this week. So, I am doing all kinds of research. This stuff is good to know.

BillB