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pickdr Samba Member

Joined: March 31, 2004 Posts: 220 Location: Fullerton, CA
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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 1:36 pm Post subject: Starting Rebuilts Motor For The First Time! |
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1600/single port Engine keeps turning and turning till battery dies. Every once in a while, i'll get an innitial backfire. that tells me there's a spark, and there's fuel (or starter flulid). Correct?
I'm kinda lost on what i should try next. It's been a year or so since the engine was built. I'm kinda figuring that the battery is weak and won't turn the engine fast enough to get things going. Correct?
Anybody know how many rotations or whatnot i should turn the idle screw? should it be closer to open, closer to closed. (30 p)
any ideas on what i should check/double check to see if i can get this thing goin?
-final stages of my restoration. lets get it goin!!-
-dave _________________ Two wrongs don't make a right.
...but three lefts do. |
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sharky745 Samba Member

Joined: September 30, 2004 Posts: 182 Location: Port Orange, FL
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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 2:05 pm Post subject: |
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Sounds like your timing might be off. But thats just a guess. |
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Tony De Samba Member
Joined: November 27, 2005 Posts: 15
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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 2:19 pm Post subject: |
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I agree, sounds like ignition timing may be off. You could try static timing with a test light. Has the engine been running o.k.? Timing will only change if somone moves it or something is wornout.
Check to make sure all plugs are getting a good spark, compression test maybe a good test if all plugs are getting spark and the engine is getting fuel.
Good luck. |
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Tony De Samba Member
Joined: November 27, 2005 Posts: 15
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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 2:26 pm Post subject: |
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oh, which idle screw, mixture of speed?Is it a stock 32pict carb?
mixture screw maybe 2-3 turns out from all the way in. then adjusted while its running to the smoothest idle without be too rich. probably different than what the manuel says, just a guess. |
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bpcatdog Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2005 Posts: 101
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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 2:43 pm Post subject: |
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Check to see that your distributor is not 180* degrees off (meaning your firing order/inproperly indexed drive gear).
Louie |
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pickdr Samba Member

Joined: March 31, 2004 Posts: 220 Location: Fullerton, CA
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Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:52 pm Post subject: |
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so what's it mean if a flame poofs out of the exhaust? too much starter fluid?
makin me nervous _________________ Two wrongs don't make a right.
...but three lefts do. |
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pickdr Samba Member

Joined: March 31, 2004 Posts: 220 Location: Fullerton, CA
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Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 3:44 pm Post subject: |
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anyone? _________________ Two wrongs don't make a right.
...but three lefts do. |
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caromin Samba Member
Joined: December 27, 2003 Posts: 1171 Location: NM
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Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 11:04 pm Post subject: |
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Sparkplug wires are probably off, pull the rh valve cover, turn the motor over till the intake valve closes on #1 and turn it on around to TDC, pull the dist cap, see if the rotor is pointing to the notch in the dist body, if so then check to see that #1 wire is connected to that post on the cap, follow it around, 4,3,2 in a clockwise direction. Sounds elementary but that's usally the problem when the engine will fire ocassionally and not even try to start. Once that's done, static time it with a test light to 7 degrees BTDC, that should get it started. _________________ Chris
59Rag
86 Westy
Sandrail
Explorer rail build!
'Rollin Dirt Video! |
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pickdr Samba Member

Joined: March 31, 2004 Posts: 220 Location: Fullerton, CA
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Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 12:22 am Post subject: |
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Awesome! Thanks! But how do i do the static timing? Don't i need the engine running to do that? _________________ Two wrongs don't make a right.
...but three lefts do. |
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caromin Samba Member
Joined: December 27, 2003 Posts: 1171 Location: NM
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Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 5:56 am Post subject: |
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Engine off, key on.
1. Set your points to .016" at the point they open the most.
2. Take the coil wire off, loosen the 6mm dist clamp nut.
3. Take a test light (small pointed 12 volt lamp that looks like an ice pick with a wire attached avail at your local autoparts store) attach the clip end to a decent ground on your engine. Touch the pointed end to the (-) on the coil with the points wire still attached there.
4. Turn your key on, turn the large pully bolt with a wrench in the clockwise direction.
When the points open (time to fire) the light will come on, so as the engine comes around toward TDC the light will come on somewhere around the TDC mark. The goal is to get it to come on exactly when the 6/8 marks are lining up with the case split (provided you have a degree pully) if not I think it's approx one inch before the TDC mark aligns on a stock pully. If you never see the light come on, see my previous post.
5. Turning slowly, stop the second the light comes on, look at the pully location, if it's further (more advanced) than 6/8 degrees, turn the distributor clockwise (looking down at the cap) a little which retards the timing.
6. Back the motor up about 30 degrees and rotate it again as check the effect of your change in timing.
If it's retarded (happening after the 6/8 degree point, advance it by turning it slightly counter clockwise. It doesn't take much of a turn to make a significant change in the timing. The process sounds a bit involved but it's actually very simple once you try it a couple times. I'm not 100% sure though on the distance away from TDC on a stock style pully.
Hope this helps. _________________ Chris
59Rag
86 Westy
Sandrail
Explorer rail build!
'Rollin Dirt Video! |
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