beating a dead horse, er, fridge

[grunwin]

My refrigerator troubles came up as a digression in a recent post and I thought I would put them out there to the group at large. I know there is a glut of fridge posts but I don't recall any that address this specific problem:

When left plugged in to 120v over night my fridge doesn't cool at all. It cools on 12v when I drive. I have been able to light it on gas when hooked up to an LP tank with the fridge removed from the vehicle but have not been able to light it off gas when installed. I know the gas flows, the ignitor sparks, the air pump pumps, the outlet in the garage has juice, and there is power coming through the wires in the van. My next move is to remove it and see if the RV shop can figure out why the 120v won't work. Any ideas?
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'87 Westy
'04 Golf 2.0

[Dogpilot]

Check here for a bunch of fridge troubleshooting tips:

http://www.vanagonauts.com/[76.X]-Dometic-Fridge139.htm

Cheers,
james
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Geology with a Syncro rocks!
86 Syncro Westy AKA "The Bughunter"
98 Disco I
08 Range Rover SC
08 VW Rabbit S
1951 O-1G

[Beaker]

I haven't had this specific problem, although mine takes a few tries to get it to light when on gas. I would guess that the problem lies in your switch (12V, Gas, 120V). You may want to pop that out and inspect/replace before tearing the whole fridge out. Also, if you have recently filled your tank, you may have some air in the line. To bleed the line, light the stove for a minute or two. Don't know if this helps.........

[grunwin]

Thanks for the link, Dogpilot. I particularly like the section on the unhelpful/unknowledgable VW dealerships/Dometic service centers.

I'll look into popping that switch off; I haven't tried that. I have run the stove before attempting to light the fridge to no avail.

I bought this Westy last year with 27,000 original miles on it and, as far as I know, the fridge has never been lit. I don't think the LP tank had ever been filled, either (there was still blue plastic wrap from the factory on the heat shield for the range!). The tank is full now and the stove burners work fine. Nothing is apparently plugged. I blew air through everything I could and checked conductivity of all exposed wires. The weird part is that I'm pretty certain I did get it to cool on 110v before removing the unit from the van. [/quote][/code]
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'87 Westy
'04 Golf 2.0

[Dogpilot]

The other item you may want to check is the breaker switch next to the plug . I never could find out if it isolated the entire system or just the plug. I definatly had to run the stove for a while before I got my fridge to light the first time. Also, there is a small brass plug at the bottom of the fridge which is the water drain. I opened mine and forgot about it, and after driving around a bit a signifigant amount of fine rust powder had come out. So I held the vacuum nozzle there let the vacuum suck on it for a while. Then left it off for a while and drove for a week or two. a bit more came out and it lighted eaiser.

Good luck,
James
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Geology with a Syncro rocks!
86 Syncro Westy AKA "The Bughunter"
98 Disco I
08 Range Rover SC
08 VW Rabbit S
1951 O-1G

[mightyart]

is it plugged in under the sink?

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My Art:
http://www.instagram.com/flynn8552/

[grunwin]

I'm offended! Obviously the first thing I checked, right? Okay, so I ran out in the cold to check that plug knowing full well I wouldn't be able to sleep otherwise. Unfortunately, it was plugged in. Dag.

I removed the front plate of the fridge but did not see a way to access the toggle switch without removing the entire fridge. Barring any further ideas (no matter how obvious), that's the next step.
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'87 Westy
'04 Golf 2.0

[Michael J]

[DrDarby]

When I worked for VW in the 80's & 90s I developed a knack for lighting stubborn refrigerators. Pump the air valve like crazy, then hold the pilot button while pumping, then start pumping but push all the way to knick the igniter, do this like 10 times. Occasianally you'll get a backfire but keep doing it. After about 10 ignites, keep the pilot buttom pressed and watch through the little site hole. Normally it will light every time this way.
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Midwest Autosavers, Inc. Crystal Lake, IL

[[email protected]]

I know this is another stupididly obvious one but when you are turning it to 120 volt on the 3 way are you also turning the temp know to full? I did this the other day after I had taken mine out for a cleaning and going through, I was about to rip it out again and start probing the 120 wires for faults and I thought I would read the instructions on the door and try one more time

BTW I'm at pretty much at the same point with my Propane as you are-everything seems to function as should but I can't get it to fire either! I do think I may have damged the thermocoupler though and I bought a universal unit the other day. I hope I can make it fit

good luck.
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Markus

[sc-surfer]

For what it is worth, once you finally get it to fire up on gas, try to start it once a month or so. It seems to help. If I let mine sit to long, it gives me fits.

Also, I recomend DrDarby's methot. Usually works.

Good luck. A properly runnung Dometic is a wonderfull thing. When not running, the devil in a small box.
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'89 Syncro Westy
Catalog of Vans at SDM 2010
Westfalia, Syncro & Tristar Reproduction decals here.
* * * Coming Soon: Washable seat covers for westy bench seat...keep the pets off the upholstery! * * *

[r39o]

Factory service manual for the frig:
http://www.loam.org/vw/Vanagon/DometicRM182B/DometicRM182B.pdf
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"Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!

1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....

Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently)

[ron3865]

[jimf909]

Nominated for bump-of-the-month in May!
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- Jim

[spitsnrovers]

Well nominated .
To add to the confusion - page 9 of the Dometic manual, as well as the diagram on the fridge itself has a circuit diagram error

The double-pole double-throw switch for the 120V-12V (labeled simply SWITCH) shows the internal toggles incorrectly.

It shows one toggle going left, and one going right. The two toggles should both be going the same way. If you try circuit tracing using this incorrect diagram, it could drive you crazy
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'88 VW Westfalia
'75 Triumph Spitfire 1500

[carboy1953]

So , my Dometic works on A/C or D/C and when the unit is out of the van with the burner box opened it easily starts on propane . Igniter ,thermocouple all seems to function perfectly. When I close the burner while it is lit ,it remains lit.
It does restart if started within a very short time, but after refuses to light. I have tried everything suggested here and have checked all pipes and potential blockage. It would seem that it needs more air. I know this might suggest some sort of air blockage but every flue and intake including the drain has repeatedly been checked. Is there something I have not thought of? I have even tried adding extra air and oxygen into the intake and drain pipe Help!!! Has anyone else experienced this?

[DanHoug]

[carboy1953]

Thanks Dan , but the problem is even though the fridge is out of the van ,it still will not fire up unless I separate and open the burner box from the intake/exhaust flues. . perhaps I should try running it on A/C for a while and see if it would start. I get your point about the air circulation. I thought that blowing air through the drain might do the job . I even tried forcing some air through the intake with a reversed vacuum cleaner.This is a very low mileage little used 1988 with about 70,000miles. Most likely used very little . Everything was very clean and tidy when I removed it from the van.....Frustrating

[jimf909]

How is your propane supply connected when the fridge is in the van or on the bench? I'm wondering if the propane pressure delivered by the regulator(s?) is up to spec of 11" water column.

Propane regulators can wear overtime and deliver lower pressure than spec. This can be measured using a gauge or manometer. Most regulators can be adjusted to deliver pressure to spec. Info on a home made manometer:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=726525

If you're using different regulators in the van and during the bench test it doesn't seem that this is a likely problem (hopefully at least one is up to spec) but it may be worth checking given all that you've done to correct the problem.
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- Jim

[carboy1953]

thanks Jim, the fridge would not fire in the van but does fire on the bench as long as it has the burner box slightly open. Is it possible that if the BQ regulator were not to spec that this could make a difference lighting as to air /propane mixture?