Servicing rear brakes: worth paying someone else?

[trevize1138]

I believe the scraping sound is coming from my right-rear drum. When I pull on the E-brake the car pulls to the left. That and other clues lead to the right rear brake not really working well or at all and something probably loose inside there. Bearings and CV joint check out OK from what I can tell, too.

So, question is should I attempt the job myself or just pay a mechanic to do it? I have yet to buy a 36mm axle nut removal tool (around $9) and then I'd like to get a heavy-duty (I think they're called flex handle) socket wrench to use on it ($20 at my local Ace Hardware) and then I believe I need a drum puller to get the drum off, most likely new brake shoes, perhaps get a machine shop to grind the inside of the drum ...

By the end of it, this a once every 10 years (this car's not going to see more than 5K miles each year) job so should I spare myself the headache and just have someone else do it? I don't remember exactly how much a brake job costs for just the rear wheels (front discs have recently been replaced and work fine). $150? Sound right?
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'72 Ghia Coupe
'72 Westy Hardtop (sold in 2013)
'72 Super Beetle (long dead and gone!)
http://druckenghia.blogspot.com/

[DaveM]

If you want to work on your cars, the tool expenditure is well worth it. You don't need the drum puller.

I say buy the tools and have at it. The only specific tool is the 36mm socket. You'll use the ratchet for other things.
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Sounding like a broken record as to why You should be measuring protein during harvest in order to better your agronomic practices.

[Gary]

But, you have to remember that the drum has to be torqued on to 230(?)lbs when you are finished. Double-check the Bentley on that. I agree with Dave, the tools are worth the investment. So what if it takes you a weekend. At least you'll have acquired more knowledge. I've been diving headfirst into a 1997 Dodge Ram engine, and to be honest, these FI systems aren't so "complicated".
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West Virginia State Board of Education v. Barnette, 319 U.S. 624 (1943)

[trevize1138]

[trevize1138]

[Gary]

[jason_hamilton]

Get yourself a Torquemeister to handle the axle nut. It allows you to get it off and torqued correctly on with an ordinary torque wrench and a 10mm socket. If the axle nut is not tightened up to spec (217 foot pounds), it will get loose and the axle shaft will chew the splines off the drum.
Your drums will not require machining unless they are scored.
The whole thing can be done in an afternoon by a novice with basic hand tools (and a Torquemeister). Just put everything back where you found it, and follow the Bentley maual. You can do this, and you'll be proud you did.

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Jason Hamilton
1969 Karmann Ghia coupe
@MiddleAgedHoon

[trevize1138]

OK, I'll do it. In fact, just got back from AutoZone where they actually had a beefy, 36MM axle nut socket and 2' breaker bar. I've read that you can mark the nut and axle before you take it off, too, if you want to make sure it's got the proper ft/lbs of torque back on when you put it all together. But, I need to get a torque wrench, I suppose. They're just a little too handy not to have.

I assume I can get replacement shoes just about anywhere?
_________________
'72 Ghia Coupe
'72 Westy Hardtop (sold in 2013)
'72 Super Beetle (long dead and gone!)
http://druckenghia.blogspot.com/

[john morris]

The local Autozone and Advance auto parts here rent tools for free. You don't even have to buy anything! You can use a credit card for deposit and return the undamaged tool for a full refund. Works great if you are tight on cash.

For the real axle nut, I have someone sit in the car and apply the brakes while I break it loose or tighten it. If you are concerned about tightening the nut, do all the work, put it back together, use a breaker bar and a length of pipe to get it as tight as you can, then have a nearby shop tighten it for you. You should be able to safely drive 3-5 miles at low speeds after the breaker bar and pipe method. A good shop may not even charge you anything. Good Luck!

[Braukuche]

[trevize1138]

[Gary]

[jbar1]

Looks like the Torquemeister is the way to go. Who carries them?

Thanks!
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John

1970 Ghia
1976 Porsche 912E

[trevize1138]

[cadmanspd]

Don't just replace the shoes either, do the wheel cylinder too. You'll be glad you did.

[Gary]

A Torque wrench isn't going to cut it. Do what Jason said and get a Torquemeister.
_________________
West Virginia State Board of Education v. Barnette, 319 U.S. 624 (1943)

[trevize1138]

[Gary]

Put some PBlaster on the splines. The drums can be a bear to remove. Tap it like you're doing, rotate it 15 degrees, tap, rotate again, tap. It will take time, but they'll come off.
_________________
West Virginia State Board of Education v. Barnette, 319 U.S. 624 (1943)

[Jeckler]

Question for you Icy.
Why won't 195 lbs and a 2ft breaker bar cut it? If he stands at the end of the bar, he's putting 390lbs to the nut, right? Maybe bounce a little?
I did the rear brakes on my car a few weeks ago and that's how I did it, kinda. I weight, ahem... alot, and stood about 9 inches (don't do the math, please) from the nut and gave a bounce or two. Am I missing something in how the torque is applied?
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Andy
'63 Bug rebuild here.
Did you know that sellers can't charge a fee to accept PayPal?

[Gary]