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Cabinets out--RUST!--insulation, fridge, propane tank etc.
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cheeseisgood
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 10:17 pm    Post subject: Cabinets out--RUST!--insulation, fridge, propane tank etc. Reply with quote

So I finally got the fridge and cabinets out and can now see the extent of the rust. I have it in a few other places, but this is the worst area by far. I hope to start wire brushing an treating the rust soon so that I can move on to other things.

I will deaden the pannels w/ RAAMMAT, but haven't chosen a replacement for the fiberglass stuff. Any ideas?

Also, I will clean and install the gowesty fridge upgrade valve. I want to replace the fan too. Should I go with the gowesty fan upgrade or is there a better alternative?

I want to clean up the propane tank and possibly paint it while it is out. Someone had mentioned that they need to be certified. Is this true? If so what does it involve? What about the regulator?

Now I'll try to post some pics of the rust.....



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Christopher Schimke
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like you have a fun job ahead of you. Wink

When you install your RAAMMAT, be sure that you don't install it all the way down to the floor. Leave a couple of inches exposed where the side panels meet the floor where the seams are. That way, if any moisture settles down in that area, at least it has a chance to evaporate instead of being trapped.

As far as a replacement for the fiberglass insulation, I'm not sure if your looking to improve your "R" value or a "db" value. If your looking to up the "R" value, I'm not really sure but the foil on the RAAMMAT will help keep the Bus cooler inside.

If it a lowered "db" value that you are looking for, I just installed this from B-Quiet:

http://www.b-quiet.com/vcomp.html

This stuff is incredible. I'm not one that is easily impressed but this stuff does it for me. So far I have only installed it on the floor and rear firewall. I used to be able to hear my transmission whine on deceleration but not any longer. The overall db inside the Bus has dropped dramatically. According to B-Quiet, this product helps control a different frequency of noise that the RAAMMAT (and other similar products) don't control. I have to say that this is not just hype, it's true. Now my only noise problem is that I can hear all of the miniscule squeaks and rattles coming from some of the interior components. I didn't even know that they were there until now.
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mightyart
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have to make sure you get ALL the rust, that might mean welding on the side of the van there if you open up to big of holes from removing the rust.
Those rust inhibitors and converters don't penetrate very far and it will just start to rust again in short order if any rust spots are missed by you.

I'm replacing the fiberglass insulation with "NASA" insulation.
I'm happy with it so far, it's very tough stuff, also alot thinner.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=162330
I'm just starting in the back and working my way up, layer of b-quite ultimate and then the nasa stuff.
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Captain Pike
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is a cut out project. No way to fully remove all that rot. It came from the inside out. Find a doner V if you can,sawzall and a welder. If not any doner sheet steel and a brake for bending tight seams. Cut our the rot, sand blast any remaining rust and clean out the channel under the area of all the shit that has accumulated over the years. Do not cut into the frame, just the body rot. You could sand it, fill it up with plastic and paint it. It will look good for 4 or 5 years then the ENTIRE thing will fall off one day with the frame going with it. Frame rot =abandon ship.
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cheeseisgood
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sucks. I was hoping to not have to have welding done. Can anyone recommend a welder in the sf bay area? Also, how much money am I looking at?
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Captain Pike
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are the welder! Time to learn. Is this the V westy that you were looking for awhile back?
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cheeseisgood
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really would love to learn, but now isn't the time.......baby on the way in <3 months!!!!!!! I didn't expect to find that much rust back there.
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terryg
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could clean it out as best you can and then coat it with POR-15. It's not a perminent solution, but it will slow the decay until you can get the time to do it right. Do it from both sides. POR-15 blocks the O2 from getting to the metal and continuing the rust process. Use it liberally and paint over it with a close color. It's not perfect, but works better than the 'liner' types of stuff.
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cheeseisgood
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I picked up "the must for rust".....formerly MP-7. I have used it before w/ good results. If I can't find an affordable welding option I will be cleaning things and treating aggressively from both sides. I figure I can just fill the inside area and let it soak in for a week or so and let gravity do the work.
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fatboypaul
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Cheesy......... I have the a very clean, no rust, as in zero rust, drivers side body panel, might be easier than repairing that rust. In Emeryville, the other side of the bay.
Paul
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kayakwesty
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i had the same issues you did and here is what I did with POR-15 , it has been 2 years and so far so good

http://home.earthlink.net/~mark.cumnock/id16.html
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