Author |
Message |
cheeseisgood Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2004 Posts: 566
|
Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 10:17 pm Post subject: Cabinets out--RUST!--insulation, fridge, propane tank etc. |
|
|
So I finally got the fridge and cabinets out and can now see the extent of the rust. I have it in a few other places, but this is the worst area by far. I hope to start wire brushing an treating the rust soon so that I can move on to other things.
I will deaden the pannels w/ RAAMMAT, but haven't chosen a replacement for the fiberglass stuff. Any ideas?
Also, I will clean and install the gowesty fridge upgrade valve. I want to replace the fan too. Should I go with the gowesty fan upgrade or is there a better alternative?
I want to clean up the propane tank and possibly paint it while it is out. Someone had mentioned that they need to be certified. Is this true? If so what does it involve? What about the regulator?
Now I'll try to post some pics of the rust.....
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Christopher Schimke Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2005 Posts: 5374 Location: PNW
|
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:16 am Post subject: |
|
|
Looks like you have a fun job ahead of you.
When you install your RAAMMAT, be sure that you don't install it all the way down to the floor. Leave a couple of inches exposed where the side panels meet the floor where the seams are. That way, if any moisture settles down in that area, at least it has a chance to evaporate instead of being trapped.
As far as a replacement for the fiberglass insulation, I'm not sure if your looking to improve your "R" value or a "db" value. If your looking to up the "R" value, I'm not really sure but the foil on the RAAMMAT will help keep the Bus cooler inside.
If it a lowered "db" value that you are looking for, I just installed this from B-Quiet:
http://www.b-quiet.com/vcomp.html
This stuff is incredible. I'm not one that is easily impressed but this stuff does it for me. So far I have only installed it on the floor and rear firewall. I used to be able to hear my transmission whine on deceleration but not any longer. The overall db inside the Bus has dropped dramatically. According to B-Quiet, this product helps control a different frequency of noise that the RAAMMAT (and other similar products) don't control. I have to say that this is not just hype, it's true. Now my only noise problem is that I can hear all of the miniscule squeaks and rattles coming from some of the interior components. I didn't even know that they were there until now. _________________ "Sometimes you have to build a box to think outside of." - Bruce (not Springsteen)
*Custom wheel hardware for Audi/VW, Porsche and Mercedes wheels - Urethane Suspension Bushings*
T3Technique.com or contact me at [email protected] |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mightyart Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2004 Posts: 6188 Location: Portland, Oregon
|
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:58 am Post subject: |
|
|
You have to make sure you get ALL the rust, that might mean welding on the side of the van there if you open up to big of holes from removing the rust.
Those rust inhibitors and converters don't penetrate very far and it will just start to rust again in short order if any rust spots are missed by you.
I'm replacing the fiberglass insulation with "NASA" insulation.
I'm happy with it so far, it's very tough stuff, also alot thinner.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=162330
I'm just starting in the back and working my way up, layer of b-quite ultimate and then the nasa stuff. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Captain Pike Samba Member
Joined: December 30, 2003 Posts: 3327 Location: Talos IV, Piedmont Arizona
|
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 9:49 am Post subject: |
|
|
That is a cut out project. No way to fully remove all that rot. It came from the inside out. Find a doner V if you can,sawzall and a welder. If not any doner sheet steel and a brake for bending tight seams. Cut our the rot, sand blast any remaining rust and clean out the channel under the area of all the shit that has accumulated over the years. Do not cut into the frame, just the body rot. You could sand it, fill it up with plastic and paint it. It will look good for 4 or 5 years then the ENTIRE thing will fall off one day with the frame going with it. Frame rot =abandon ship. _________________ If You Build It______It Will Run
1959 Panel bus, 1966 Single cab. 73' 181. 73 Westy. 91' H6 Vanagon 3.3L.
.....................All Current....................... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cheeseisgood Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2004 Posts: 566
|
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 2:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
That sucks. I was hoping to not have to have welding done. Can anyone recommend a welder in the sf bay area? Also, how much money am I looking at? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Captain Pike Samba Member
Joined: December 30, 2003 Posts: 3327 Location: Talos IV, Piedmont Arizona
|
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 4:40 pm Post subject: |
|
|
You are the welder! Time to learn. Is this the V westy that you were looking for awhile back? _________________ If You Build It______It Will Run
1959 Panel bus, 1966 Single cab. 73' 181. 73 Westy. 91' H6 Vanagon 3.3L.
.....................All Current....................... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cheeseisgood Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2004 Posts: 566
|
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 4:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I really would love to learn, but now isn't the time.......baby on the way in <3 months!!!!!!! I didn't expect to find that much rust back there. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
terryg Samba Member
Joined: January 20, 2006 Posts: 349
|
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 5:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
You could clean it out as best you can and then coat it with POR-15. It's not a perminent solution, but it will slow the decay until you can get the time to do it right. Do it from both sides. POR-15 blocks the O2 from getting to the metal and continuing the rust process. Use it liberally and paint over it with a close color. It's not perfect, but works better than the 'liner' types of stuff. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cheeseisgood Samba Member
Joined: October 18, 2004 Posts: 566
|
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 7:05 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I picked up "the must for rust".....formerly MP-7. I have used it before w/ good results. If I can't find an affordable welding option I will be cleaning things and treating aggressively from both sides. I figure I can just fill the inside area and let it soak in for a week or so and let gravity do the work. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
fatboypaul Samba Member
Joined: August 24, 2004 Posts: 432 Location: Emeryville, Ca, SF Bay.
|
Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 9:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hey Cheesy......... I have the a very clean, no rust, as in zero rust, drivers side body panel, might be easier than repairing that rust. In Emeryville, the other side of the bay.
Paul |
|
Back to top |
|
|
kayakwesty Samba Member
Joined: February 15, 2007 Posts: 687 Location: East Tennessee
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
|