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Hyd cam/lifters & parts
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RocketRod
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 1:17 pm    Post subject: Hyd cam/lifters & parts Reply with quote

OK, I'm not motor expert, but not a novice either. I've searched and have not found a definitive answer to a question. As I understand it from reading in Tom Wilson's book and the Bentley, the hyd valve train parts consist of a rocker spacer and washers, steel push rods, hyd lifters and cam, beefier springs, and other things. Valve train geometry must be correct for any application, solid or hyd to prevent premature wear on guides, valve float, etc. So can solid lifter push rods and no spacer and washer be used if geometry is correct? Also no fancy expensive 911 swivel feet in the mix. Please tell me why a yes or no, as I want to understand your opinion. Type IV motor. Thanks!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Solid lift push rods are longer than hydraulic lifter push rods by quite a bit they they won't work.

The spacers are required with hydraulic lifters to keep the rockers from being pushed off to the side by the continual pressure.

You don't need swivel rockers with any application using a stock lift. They will cut down on valve adjuster to valve stem wear and to valve guide wear, but these aren't much of an issue when running a stock grind and stock quality parts.
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germansupplyscott
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

solid lifter pushrods are going to be too long no matter what happens elsewhere with the geometry. this is because with a solid lifter, the pushrod cup is deep into the body of the lifter whereas on a hydraulic the cup is almost flush with the end of the lifter. all the lifters are made the same way no matter who makes them or when they were made, they are made to a set of specifications. the hydraulic spacers and thrust washers are a good upgrade no matter what camshaft/lifter is used. i doubt the engine will grenade of you were to use a hydraulic cam and the early springs but like i said on any engine the solid spacers are better for the valve train.
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RocketRod
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So then someone would not take the solid push rod tubes and cut them down then? Just physically won't work in a hyd cam/lifter, solid push rods, solid rockers then? Are the spacers a critical part to the hyd system? Just trying to learn.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RocketRod wrote:
So then someone would not take the solid push rod tubes and cut them down then? Just physically won't work in a hyd cam/lifter, solid push rods, solid rockers then? Are the spacers a critical part to the hyd system? Just trying to learn.


Don't think it would be all that easy to cut down a set of aluminium solid lifter push rods and I have no idea if they would fit inside the end bore of a hydraulic lifter, though its likely they would.

And as I said above:

Quote:
The spacers are required with hydraulic lifters to keep the rockers from being pushed off to the side by the continual pressure.


If you are trying to same a few dollars by using the wrong parts, don't!
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the spring rates on ACVW hydraulic engines GD and GE are quite heavy compared to the early 1700 and 1800 springs. You would have problems with the aluminum rods bending under the load. Stronger springs were needed with hydraulic lifters to keep them from pumping up. Stronger springs meant stronger pushrods. Most people who run hydraulics do so because hydraulics either came with their engine or they don't want to be bothered adjusting valves. I prefer adjusting valves and run a solid lifter cam so that I can rev a little higher when needed and it also lets me monitor how the valve train is wearing. I can also tell from the clatter when the engine starts and warms up whether I am developing any valve train problems. I do not consider the ACVW to be a 300,000 mile trouble free engine like my Acuras have been etc and prefer to tweak it as needed.
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RocketRod
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WT I'm not. I had a look at a motor and was told it was hyd, and what I saw had me looking further into it. Wasn't my place to pull the rocker and pull a lifter out. I had never heard of an aluminum vw push rod being cut either, just answered that question I had. I've never seen a hyd. set up, only solid.

Thanks Scott & SGK.
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RocketRod wrote:
WT I'm not. I had a look at a motor and was told it was hyd, and what I saw had me looking further into it. Wasn't my place to pull the rocker and pull a lifter out. I had never heard of an aluminum vw push rod being cut either, just answered that question I had. I've never seen a hyd. set up, only solid.

Thanks Scott & SGK.


If it is a GD or GE engine good chance it is a hydraulic though early GD were solids. Some people after fit the solid spacers instead of the springs on the rocker arms. If there are springs on the rocker arms most likely it is solid lifter. You might also be able to tell by how much play there is in the rocker arms. If a valve has been open for a long time the lifter will bleed down. Rotate the engine until the rocker drops and if there is a lot of play it may be hydraulic. If it feels like .006 it may be solid.
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78Kombi
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

also just by pulling the rocker covers you can use one of those lil telescoping magnets that looks like a pen to test the push rod to see if its steel or aluminum.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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