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74 mm crank, Scat rods
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Ellis' Bug
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Joined: November 15, 2006
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Location: Phoenix
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 2:49 pm    Post subject: 74 mm crank, Scat rods Reply with quote

I had a builder put together a 74 X 92 combo. I was disappointed in its performance, probably due in part to the mild cam. Anyway, I decided to pull it apart and make improvements myself. This will be my first time assembling a bottom end. When I pulled the engine apart, I found that the builder used rebuilt stock rods and clearanced them on a grinder. He also did some clearancing in the case.

I only put about a hundred miles on this engine so I am keeping the crank, though I have had it ballanced. I pruchased Scat rods of stock length, and changed cams. I figured there would be no clearancing issues. Again, this is my first assembly. The Scat rods don't appear to be any bigger than the ground down stock rods I'm replacing. Doing a mock up, there is some rubbing going on somewhere. The oil pump is fine, though close.

The only changes I've made are the rods, the cam and I'm moving up to 94 mm jugs. Do you think there should be clearancing issues?
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RIS
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nothing wrong with stroker clearanced 311B rods, I’ve used them all the way up to 2276cc engines and they can work and last.

Depending on what kind of Scat rods you have it may be a drop-in affair. My old 1904cc had a DMS 74mm and the older Scat I-beam with 5/16 rod bolts. I did absolutely no clearancing on that combination. Naturally I checked for clearance all over before it was sealed up, find out where it is rubbing and you should be fine.
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cal63look
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 4:47 pm    Post subject: Re: 74 mm crank, Scat rods Reply with quote

Ellis' Bug wrote:
I had a builder put together a 74 X 92 combo. I was disappointed in its performance, probably due in part to the mild cam. Anyway, I decided to pull it apart and make improvements myself. This will be my first time assembling a bottom end. When I pulled the engine apart, I found that the builder used rebuilt stock rods and clearanced them on a grinder. He also did some clearancing in the case.

I only put about a hundred miles on this engine so I am keeping the crank, though I have had it ballanced. I pruchased Scat rods of stock length, and changed cams. I figured there would be no clearancing issues. Again, this is my first assembly. The Scat rods don't appear to be any bigger than the ground down stock rods I'm replacing. Doing a mock up, there is some rubbing going on somewhere. The oil pump is fine, though close.


The only changes I've made are the rods, the cam and I'm moving up to 94 mm jugs. Do you think there should be clearancing issues?




What type of cam grind did you use?? What kind of heads? Im going to be building the same combo, and i dont want to be dissapointed.
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Ellis' Bug
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rods are Scat I beam 5.394 length. I also had the 041 heads ported and polished by Competition Engineering here in Phx. The cam is a Pauter (spl?) also from CE. I just tried a mock up again to find where it was rubbing. It appears to have been due to the end-play. The engine was slanting down hill (because of the engine stand) and the crank was all the way forward. When I put the case halfs together and pushed the crank toward the flywheel end, there was no more rubbing. It's starting to come together now.

Any suggestions of things not to forget before the final assembly. I checked the cam to lifter clearance.....more than .050 on all of them. The oil pump clears the cam bolts. The rod bolts touch the lip of the piston holes if I don't guide them around but I think with the jugs on they'll be okay. Anyone have a list of things to check as it goes together?
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