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DarenSchwenke Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2010 Posts: 25 Location: Lake Orion
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Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 11:10 am Post subject: 1.8 head ABA swap distributor without adapter ring |
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I'm doing a 1.8 PF head on a 2.0 ABA block swap (into my 79 bus for the curious)
I got the hall effect breaker ring off the 1.8 and looks like it will fit fine on the 2.0 dist shaft.
Problem is I failed to record the indexing of the ring to the shaft position when I removed it. Now the hall effect probably won't line up with the rotation of the rotor.
Can someone with a 1.8 8v PF engine (88 golf was the donor) take off their distributor cap, rotor, and dust cover, and snap me a picture so I can see the spline location versus the position of the hall ring?
Thank you!
-Daren
Last edited by DarenSchwenke on Fri Jun 04, 2010 7:14 am; edited 6 times in total |
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zuhaelter_82 Samba Member

Joined: June 23, 2009 Posts: 1506 Location: Lincoln
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Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 11:33 am Post subject: |
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I always just went this route. http://techtonicstuninginc.com/main/index.php?main...ts_id=1372
I have built a few of those motors. I can't really help answering your question but, are you going to use the MKIII fuel managment or run something like mega squirt? I'm thinking about throwing a VR6 in my 59 SC so I would love to see how this turns out. _________________ 64 Type II
MKI Jetta Coupe Diesel
MKI Jetta Sedan w/TD swap
B5 V6 GLS
B7 TDI Passat SE |
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DarenSchwenke Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2010 Posts: 25 Location: Lake Orion
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Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 11:40 am Post subject: |
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I've had the 1.8 PF engine running in the bus for a few years.
Machined the flywheel, trans adapter, made new engine mounts (lowered the trans by about 5/8 in. to clear the 1.8 throttle), cooling in the rear door, complete harness out of the 88 golf.
The original engine had 260k on in when it started pushing the bus and got overheated a few times and about a year ago was run without oil for about 5 min. I planned on replacing it so I just ran it into the garage and up on ramps at the time. It's dead.
The head looks ok though and I got a donor 2.0 aba block from my friend that looks perfect.
So... 1.8 on aba block project born.
You don't need the adapter ring or a new gear if you just press fit the 1.8 hall ring on the 2.0 distributor shaft,provided you maintain the indexing from the rotor to the ring.. which I did not..
edit: I'll take some pics this time while I have it apart. The whole thing is going back together this weekend if I get the dist/hall ring sorted. |
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zuhaelter_82 Samba Member

Joined: June 23, 2009 Posts: 1506 Location: Lincoln
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Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 11:48 am Post subject: |
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Being that the PF had over heated, check the head and make sure it's straight. Also, the ABA/PF will be a high(er) compression motor. Unless you get the thicker head gasket, you may want to wire in a knock box if you don't already have one. _________________ 64 Type II
MKI Jetta Coupe Diesel
MKI Jetta Sedan w/TD swap
B5 V6 GLS
B7 TDI Passat SE |
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DarenSchwenke Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2010 Posts: 25 Location: Lake Orion
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Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 11:51 am Post subject: |
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The 88 golf donor wiring harness had a knock sensor so I'm good to go in that regard.
The head isn't perfectly straight, but it went back on like that last time with no issues sealing/etc. |
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DarenSchwenke Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2010 Posts: 25 Location: Lake Orion
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Posted: Sat May 22, 2010 6:39 am Post subject: |
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Still need a picture of the top of the 1.8 distributor shaft and the hall ring below it for alignment purposes..
Just take off the distributor cover and the rotor.
Pull off the little black dust cover.
Put the rotor back on.
Take a picture so that I can see the gaps in the metal and the rotor position at the same time.
Thank you,
-Daren |
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DarenSchwenke Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2010 Posts: 25 Location: Lake Orion
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Posted: Tue May 25, 2010 12:34 am Post subject: |
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Well it's back in the bus, with the 1.8 hall ring pressed onto the 2.0 distributor shaft with a guess as to where it should go.
Spinning the shaft by hand causes spark when the hall breaker ring window is first blocked so I think my guess was right.
I aimed for it to spark when the trailing edge of the rotor would be lined up with the distributor cap pin... so when the advance kicks in at higher rpm the spark can migrate towards the leading edge. Or so goes the theory. Sound right?
Doesn't fire up yet, but the battery was pretty dead.
If anyone could take the time to take a picture of a working one, that would still be great..
Also swapped out the injectors from the 2.0 block into the 1.8 head. They seemed electrically compatible with both testing within .5 ohms. (16 ohms I believe). That and they physically fit too.
Oh... and the camshaft and hydraulic lifters from the 2.0 looked identical to the 1.8. Used them too.
-Daren |
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DarenSchwenke Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2010 Posts: 25 Location: Lake Orion
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Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 3:04 am Post subject: |
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My first guess was correct for the hall ring. Smooth operation from idle to 6k rpm.
Everything else was done. Took it out camping this weekend.
It pulled a 1400 lb trailer and fully loaded camper 80 miles in 85 degree weather with no issues.
Freeway performance was impressive. It's at about half throttle for 70 mph with the trailer.
Still need new shocks though. Still got the original ones on it.
Found out why bell housings are sealed though as I backed too far into the lake putting the waverunners in the water. Clutch got wet and wouldn't grab. Had to get pulled out.
The ABA block was in better condition than the old one I had, so not sure if it's that or that it actually has more torque. Feels better though and I can stay in 4th down to 40mph and for most hills.
Got pics from the tear down this time. I'll post.
-Daren |
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