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Tkisner Samba Member
Joined: May 15, 2004 Posts: 275
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Posted: Sun Dec 24, 2006 10:45 pm Post subject: Polishing Trim Using a Buffer Wheel |
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Im thinking about getting a stationary buffer to polish trim and other pieces. My question is, is it as simple as putting a buffing wheel and holding the trim up to it or is it more complicated? Any tips or advice? Thanks |
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itlives Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2005 Posts: 1424 Location: Shreveport La
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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 11:43 am Post subject: |
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You'll need to get the right kind of medium to buff properly. I'd call around to some hot rod shops and ask them .
Other than that it sounds like a good plan. |
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Matt K. Paint and Body Nutcase

Joined: January 14, 2005 Posts: 2598 Location: Hemet, So Cal.
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Posted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 12:55 pm Post subject: |
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Sometimes you may need to finely sand the objects to make them smooth if they have any scratches or nicks in them before you polish them out, i find using 1000 grit sandpaper and some Mothers polish works great. _________________ This is my 23rd year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.) |
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gfw1985 Samba Member

Joined: December 24, 2003 Posts: 948 Location: Raphine, VA
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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 11:12 am Post subject: |
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A lot depends on the volume of stuff you want to polish for money spent. You need the right buffing wheels and compounds for what you want to do. See http://www.eastwood.com for some examples of supplies. I have two Baldor buffers, numerous wheels and compounds for polishing everything including plastic, over $2500 worth. But I have these left over from my knife making day's. You can do the same work with a dremel tool, just takes a little more time. |
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itlives Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2005 Posts: 1424 Location: Shreveport La
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Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 12:02 pm Post subject: |
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I was going suggest a Dremel. It's what I use , but I'm small time. I figure if you want to get a stationary buffer you're going to do more than just your stuff.
A Dremel is a cheap way to go-right up my alley!  |
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kingkarmann Samba Member

Joined: November 05, 2003 Posts: 4492
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Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 3:38 pm Post subject: |
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You may run across anodized aluminum. Spray lye based oven cleaner and leave it for about 60 to 90 seconds then rinse. This removes the very hard anodizing . I sand the aluminun with 300 grit and work up to 0000 steel wool. Then I buff it on a stationary buffing wheel. It looks like chrome when it's done. |
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itlives Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2005 Posts: 1424 Location: Shreveport La
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Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 8:10 am Post subject: |
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That's some good tips - thanks. |
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Major Woody Samba Enigma

Joined: December 04, 2002 Posts: 9016 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 11:21 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the tips on removing anodizing. I need to polish my popout frames, which are anodized. I will try the oven cleaner suggestion. |
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Plantman Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2004 Posts: 689 Location: Brevard,NC
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Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:54 pm Post subject: |
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kingkarmann, Thanks for the oven cleaner tip for removing the anodizing. I just polished the air grills on my Ghia. I probably spent 3 hours and half a stick of polish to get the anodizing off. They do look good. I used my drill press with a buffing wheel. When I do my rims I have a 4ft flex shaft that I use with my drill press. The polish i bought at Sears,it came in a four pack. Emory cake/coarse, Tripoli/brown, white rouge, and red rouge. The emory and tripoli worked best for heavily oxidized aluminum. The rouges are for a very bright finish like silver. I tried using my Dremel but the small polishing wheels didn't last very long.
David _________________ Every day may not be good, but there is something good in every day,
No matter where you go, there you are.
'69 bug & '71 Ghia |
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coad  Samba Scapegoat

Joined: September 12, 2002 Posts: 7568
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Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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If you use a hard cloth wheel on a stationary grinder then you'll need rouge to put on the wheel.
Lots of people use the red or jeweler's rouge, but for aluminum I like the white rouge a lot better. It's faster and gives a better shine. I get mine at Sears.
Here's a pretty good page on buffing and the different wheels. I suggest you get a set-up wheel, the wider the better. I run two 1" wheels together for 2" of buffing surface.
http://www.metalfinishingsystems.com/tt-buffing.html |
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Tkisner Samba Member
Joined: May 15, 2004 Posts: 275
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Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 2:38 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for all the advice everybody!! |
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Hophead Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2005 Posts: 940 Location: Chico,Ca
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Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 2:53 pm Post subject: |
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anodizing is a protective coating.... if you remove it , you will get corrosion. That is unless you relentlessly wax it or clearcoat it with something else.... _________________ 70' Beetle Pan off Resto
2110cc
82 X 90.5
P&P 043 40x35.5
9.6-1 comp
FK-8
48 IDA |
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PSScoots  Samba Member

Joined: January 06, 2007 Posts: 505 Location: Chattanooga TN
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Posted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 6:12 pm Post subject: |
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Coad's link was very helpful but it moved. The updated link is here:http://www.metalfinishingsystems.com/content/buffing-tech-tips
Be sure to look at the PDF at the bottom of the page for buffing tips. _________________ Rebuilt to drive not decorate. -VOLKSWAGNUT
"Service the car and it will give you good service." |
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