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Polishing Trim Using a Buffer Wheel
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Tkisner
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2006 10:45 pm    Post subject: Polishing Trim Using a Buffer Wheel Reply with quote

Im thinking about getting a stationary buffer to polish trim and other pieces. My question is, is it as simple as putting a buffing wheel and holding the trim up to it or is it more complicated? Any tips or advice? Thanks
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itlives
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll need to get the right kind of medium to buff properly. I'd call around to some hot rod shops and ask them .
Other than that it sounds like a good plan.
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Matt K.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 25, 2006 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sometimes you may need to finely sand the objects to make them smooth if they have any scratches or nicks in them before you polish them out, i find using 1000 grit sandpaper and some Mothers polish works great.
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gfw1985
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A lot depends on the volume of stuff you want to polish for money spent. You need the right buffing wheels and compounds for what you want to do. See http://www.eastwood.com for some examples of supplies. I have two Baldor buffers, numerous wheels and compounds for polishing everything including plastic, over $2500 worth. But I have these left over from my knife making day's. You can do the same work with a dremel tool, just takes a little more time.
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itlives
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was going suggest a Dremel. It's what I use , but I'm small time. I figure if you want to get a stationary buffer you're going to do more than just your stuff.
A Dremel is a cheap way to go-right up my alley! Very Happy
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kingkarmann
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may run across anodized aluminum. Spray lye based oven cleaner and leave it for about 60 to 90 seconds then rinse. This removes the very hard anodizing . I sand the aluminun with 300 grit and work up to 0000 steel wool. Then I buff it on a stationary buffing wheel. It looks like chrome when it's done.
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itlives
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's some good tips - thanks.
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips on removing anodizing. I need to polish my popout frames, which are anodized. I will try the oven cleaner suggestion.
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Plantman
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kingkarmann, Thanks for the oven cleaner tip for removing the anodizing. I just polished the air grills on my Ghia. I probably spent 3 hours and half a stick of polish to get the anodizing off. They do look good. I used my drill press with a buffing wheel. When I do my rims I have a 4ft flex shaft that I use with my drill press. The polish i bought at Sears,it came in a four pack. Emory cake/coarse, Tripoli/brown, white rouge, and red rouge. The emory and tripoli worked best for heavily oxidized aluminum. The rouges are for a very bright finish like silver. I tried using my Dremel but the small polishing wheels didn't last very long.
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coad Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you use a hard cloth wheel on a stationary grinder then you'll need rouge to put on the wheel.

Lots of people use the red or jeweler's rouge, but for aluminum I like the white rouge a lot better. It's faster and gives a better shine. I get mine at Sears.

Here's a pretty good page on buffing and the different wheels. I suggest you get a set-up wheel, the wider the better. I run two 1" wheels together for 2" of buffing surface.

http://www.metalfinishingsystems.com/tt-buffing.html
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Tkisner
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the advice everybody!!
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Hophead
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

anodizing is a protective coating.... if you remove it , you will get corrosion. That is unless you relentlessly wax it or clearcoat it with something else....
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PSScoots Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Coad's link was very helpful but it moved. The updated link is here:http://www.metalfinishingsystems.com/content/buffing-tech-tips

Be sure to look at the PDF at the bottom of the page for buffing tips.
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