Remove EGR system???

[rvp420]

I have a 73 bus with the dual carb setup. I was wondering if removing the egr system is a good idea or not. I am a total newbie with air cooled vw's, but in my experience with chevy engines the egr system is just a nuisance. I don't know if that's the case with my bus.

[60's Burnout]

Keep it, it helps suppress detonation, pinging, at part throttle.

The only problem is from the valve hanging open which will cause it to stall like crazy, or if it opens too early, off idle. Then it has a flat spot or if really bad, stalls. But if it's not stalling or bogging, and not pinging, all is right with it.

There's a way to install a vacuum delay valve to fix the off idle nonsense.

Chevy managed to install it in such a way as to cause problems with the exhaust valve that was closest. At least on the SBC's.

[rvp420]

Where is this valve you're talking about? Please excuse my ignorance! How do i check it to make sure it's working properly?

Thanks!

[fusername]

on the plenium...
ooooo
im thinking FI.

I have no idea where yourse is. But there should be a pipe leading from your exhaust, prolly the drivers side, to the intake manifold somewhere. where it meets the manifold there is probably a doohicky. that is your victem. I dunno how to test it, but im sure a manual could tell you.
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[Karl]

73-74 bus EGR valves are in the intake manifolds. Look at this oicture and below the carbs are round diapraghms with nipples on them. That is the EGR valve.

[rvp420]

Thanks for all the help guys!

[60's Burnout]

[rvp420]

I found one of the valves covered with electrical tape!?!? I'm assuming it just went bad since the PO had both of them disconnected and plugged. Do you guys know from where the vacuum hoses are connected? I check in the bentley, but it only shows how to test them. i couldn't find how the vacuum lines are run.

[60's Burnout]

The Bently I'm looking at has the vacuum diagram on page 27, fuel system. Printed in '79. Don't know about other printings.

What you have is a vacuum line to the power brake booster hose, then it goes thru a solenoid controlled vacuum valve and then to the EGR valves.

The solenoid is controlled by a thermo switch and an on-off switch on the carb throttle shaft.

How it works, the thermo switch has to warm up before it will close, that's to prevent EGR flow during warm up. Once it's hot enough, it provides a ground for the solenoid.

The throttle switch will open the solenoid about 1/4 throttle and shut it off at WOT and below 1/4, if the thermo switch is closed.

Given the valves being held together with tape, don't bother hooking it up. The valves and the control bits will probably be NLA. Just make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks, those will mess up the idle.

[NASkeet]

[twinfalls]

Removing EGR is the best I did to my US 74.

There are various set ups, over years.
There are 2 systems: EGR and after burner.
Look at my posts on the Samba about EGR removing.

After burner: Remove smog pump, valve attached to pump, Carefully plug vaccum hoses ( at spider tube, and thin rubber hose ).
You can leave stuff downward to exhaust ports: The check valve ( no need to plug it, if it doesn't leak), the three legs tube assembly to exhasust ports, injectors at exaust ports.

EGR: Remove EGR filter from left heat exchanger, remove tube assembly from filter to EGR valve(s), remove EGR valve(s). Carefully plug at intake manifolds. Plug at heat exchanger.

You'll get a neater, more dependable engine. When allowed, there is NO drawback at removing that stuff.
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Stock 1974 US Westy, AW-A 1800cc dual carbs. Twin Falls is my favorite site on the Churchill river in Manitoba.

[rvp420]

Thanks for all the tips guys. Seeing as how the system doesn't work anyways, I think i'm going to pull it out. If there are NO drawbacks, and I don't need to smog this bad boy, I don't feel like putting money into it to get it working.