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Toby from MO
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Joined: August 26, 2009
Posts: 202
Location: Imperial, MO
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 Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 7:47 am Post subject: King/Link Pin…Camber Question |
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| Last night I completed a front beam “swap” (including rebuilt king/link pins) in my sand rail. I followed the camber shim charts published in most books for the recommended arrangement of shims on the link pins. I ended up with about ¼” negative camber on each front tire. I don’t have an angle finder but putting my “pencil to paper” I think I have approximately 1 degree negative camber. Considering this buggy is purely street driven I’m wondering if I should leave it or is 1 degree negative camber to much. I understand negative camber helps aggressive cornering but will I experience excessive tire wear? Is there a recommended “happy-medium” for both handling and tire wear? |
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KrAzY-BaJa
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Joined: May 22, 2008
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Location: Sacramento CA.
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Ian
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Joined: August 28, 2002
Posts: 4958
Location: 713
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| Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:52 am Post subject: |
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i'm pretty sure normal alignment specs are + or - 1* of camber up front
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Toby from MO
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Joined: August 26, 2009
Posts: 202
Location: Imperial, MO
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| Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 11:17 am Post subject: |
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There is no question my current 1 degree looks a heck of a lot better than what it was. My entire front suspension was completely shot. I also fixed a negative caster problem.
Still wondering though...If I were to swap shims around to get closer to 0 degrees camber is there a "rule of thumb" starting point for how many shims to move? Meaning, if I swapped one shim from the outside to the inside on the upper link pin would this be enough…or should I swap a shim on the bottom link pin…or should I do both. Suggesting that swapping the shims are such a pain in the butt any help I can get to only need do this one more time would be much appreciated. |
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KrAzY-BaJa
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Joined: May 22, 2008
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Location: Sacramento CA.
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SamT
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Joined: April 17, 2009
Posts: 1761
Location: Rule, Tx
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| Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 5:46 pm Post subject: |
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| KrAzY-BaJa wrote: |
| The shims are Not for adjusting camber. |
Thats technically correct, but lots of us have been doing it like that for years. 1 degree is acceptable, but I usually shoot for 2 degrees negative camber. I also weld my beams in for 10 degrees of caster. I see alot of buggys with zero or positive caster, and that is just plain dangerous.
If your going to just putt around set it up to factory spec, if your gonna hot rod it set it up like a hot rod. |
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Toby from MO
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Joined: August 26, 2009
Posts: 202
Location: Imperial, MO
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| Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 8:31 am Post subject: |
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| KrAzY-BaJa wrote: |
| The shims are Not for adjusting camber. |
Please explain.  |
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KrAzY-BaJa
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Joined: May 22, 2008
Posts: 1409
Location: Sacramento CA.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 12:17 pm Post subject: |
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| Toby from MO wrote: |
| KrAzY-BaJa wrote: |
| The shims are Not for adjusting camber. |
Please explain. |
Camber Is built into the spindles.
the beam and arms are both parallel the shims just "shim" the freespace.
adding additional shims will bind the suspension and unevenly wear linkpin bushings.
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Toby from MO
Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2009
Posts: 202
Location: Imperial, MO
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| Posted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 6:36 am Post subject: |
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| KrAzY-BaJa wrote: |
| Toby from MO wrote: |
| KrAzY-BaJa wrote: |
| The shims are Not for adjusting camber. |
Please explain. |
Camber Is built into the spindles.
the beam and arms are both parallel the shims just "shim" the freespace.
adding additional shims will bind the suspension and unevenly wear linkpin bushings. |
Got it, thanks. This makes sense. However, (depending on your year...i.e. whether you have 8 or 10 shim setup) is it not true that as long as a person don't add additional shims camber can be adjusted by simply swapping the number of shims from inside/outside? I do understand the same guy couldn't simply stack all 10 shims on one side or the other without a binding problem. |
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jsturtlebuggy
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Joined: August 24, 2005
Posts: 4609
Location: Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
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| Posted: Fri Sep 16, 2011 8:12 am Post subject: |
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The use if 10 shims is for the early trailing arms. They are completely flat across to center where link pin goes into hole.
The use of 8 shims with concave spacer and o-ring are used with a trailing arm that has a recess around the hole the linkpin goes through the hole in the trailing arm.
There are places that sell offset link pin bushings for use in Porsche 356 front supension (will work in VW) for gaining more negative camber.
If linkpin bushings are worn out they can be shimmed to gain negative camber. It not the best idea, but there are people that do it.
Also when adjusting the linkpins, make sure that when tightening them up you need to back them off a little so they will not bind when travel through the supension cycle.
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Joseph
Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
Elrod Motorsports
Motion Tire Motorsports
Having fun with Dune Buggies since 1970
Into Volkswagens since 1960 |
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