While my engine is out anyway, what else should I do?

[deadaheadub]

I'm pulling my engine to repair a bad sparkplug hole thread, and I thought I'd do what I can to improve the engine easily while it's out. It seemed to run well before (don't know compression since that's what I was in the process of doing when I became aware of the stripped thread). So, other than rebuilding everything, what can I do that is relatively easily done, and not way too expensive to do not knowing whether it needs to be done or not? You know, the relatively cheap, relatively easy stuff that would be stupid not to do while it's going to be out anyway. I was going to check the push rod tubes 'cuz that could be a source of the leaks I have and go ahead and replace those seals as well as replace the front and rear seals. On the push rod tubes, do I just put on new seals, or do the tubes often get bent and I might need to have new tubes already bought and on hand in case I need to replace them?

Where's the best online place to buy things like the seals and tubes, a head gasket (I don't need the whole engine gasket/seal kit I've seen for sale)?
And what about different quality and manufacturer seals and gaskets? Which are best?
I'm asking because many of you know the intricacies and specifics of parts quality, having done it many times before, unlike me.
Thanks for your advice!

[Blaubus]

check your transmissions final drive seals

[poptop tom]

I would:
1) pull and inspect the gas tank - check the filler hoses for any wear.
2) replace vent line hoses and fuel line hoses while easily assessible.
3) clean engine compartment.
4) pull battery and see what the battery tray looks like.

These aren't completely engine related, but should be done nonetheless.
_________________
'76 Deluxe Campmobile

[karmann57]

Some other ideas (see Ratwell's post).

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=160936&highlight=remove+ball+joint


Shane

[ChiTwnVW]

Check wear on clutch. I'd clean it up, get your head repaired, if you have any oil leaks replace those seals.

Truth be told, pulling the engine is the least of your worries, it takes a couple of hours at most...You know, if you haven't pulled your engine yet you could test the compression on the remaining cylinders. It seems silly to give you advice when we don't know the health of your engine.

[deadaheadub]

[deadaheadub]

[ChiTwnVW]

[thewalrus]

This seems to be overkill unless your bus has been sitting in a swamp for th past 30+ years but try this....

(Got this from ratWell but couldn't find the right link.....)

This guy knows his VW's but it does seem like alot...at least to me!!

Engine

engine mounts - replace if oil contaminated
oil pressure switch - replace
foam seal - replace (72-79)
replace any missing rubber grommets
oil cooler seals - replace
oil filler tube gasket - replace (72-79)
engine tin screws - replace
thermostat - test and replace
alternator boot - replace if cracked (72-79)
alternator belt - replace
oil cooler - clean fins
valve adjusting screws - check for wear and replace
valve covers - sandblast and repaint
valve cover gaskets - replace
push rod tube seals - replace
dipstick boot - replace (72-79)
hydraulic lifters - disassembly and remove varnish (78-79)

Tune-up and Service

oil filter - replace (72-79)
oil strainer - clean + new gaskets
ignition - new spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap, condenser, points
ignition coil - test
distributor - test and regrease
vacuum can - test and replace

Electrical

Clean all battery terminals
Replace old corroded cables (included trans ground strap)
Tail lights - clean all electrical connections
FI grounds on engine - clean thoroughly

Exhaust

replace all hardware with stainless (except exhaust stud nuts)

Fuel

fuel sender - replace
fuel lines - replace (including injector hoses 75-79)
fuel breather lines - replace
charcoal canister rubber tee - replace (72-77)
fuel pump - test and repack (72-74)
fuel pump gasket - check push rod length (72-74)
fuel filter - replace
fuel injectors - have Cruzin Performance clean them (75-79)
fuel injector seals - replace (75-79)
carbs - rebuild (72-74)

Fuel tank

tank - clean thoroughly
fuel tank straps - anti-seize on threads
fuel pipe hose - replace if cracked
fuel filler neck - replace (74-79)

Vacuum hoses

replace all vacuum hoses
intake manifold boots - replace (75-79)

Starter

starter bushing - replace
starter - clean all terminals and posts

Clutch

clutch disc - inspect and replace
throwout bearing - inspect and replace
pressure plate - inspect and replace
throwout shaft - clean and regrease

Flywheel

flywheel - check and resurface if necessary (with step-cut and reinstall
pressure plate dowels)
flywheel endplay - check

If the flywheel comes off (endplay etc):

flywheel shims - check for wear and warping, recalculate
flywheel seal and oring - replace
pilot bearing and felt - replace
flywheel lock plate and bolts (or gland nut) - replace
oil gallery plugs - clean and JB Weld over them

Transmission

nose cone - replace worn ball joint
nose cone seal - replace if leaking
input shaft boot - replace if torn
needle bearings - regrease
shift rod grommet - check for breakage
shift rod coupler - check and replace
shift rod boots - replace torn boots
shift rod bushings - replace broken ones
mod early shift rod for 3rd bushing
gaskets - replace leaking gaskets

I wouldn't mess with the input shaft seal on the transmission if you don't have to. Removing the bellhousing is the easiest way to replace it.

Clutch

clutch cable - replace if worn
clevis pin - replace
bowden tube - inspect and replace
clutch cable boots - replace if torn

Body

battery trays - rust proof

But what the hell do I know! After all this the engine probally runs like a million bucks!! Go crazy!!


_________________
'73 Transporter 1.7L Dual Carb

[WestyPop]

The question: "While my engine is out anyway, what else should I do?"

One answer: Powertrain Swap! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SW8CmgcfmE

OK... not everyone's answer.

J.R.
68 Westy
(+ others)