Syncro engagement question

[dnh1263]

I have a syncro that does nothing when I pull the dash knob out. The light doesn't come on and the van acts/drives no differently.

The previous owners said... "I bet its stuck again. its a small rod thats at the upper part of the trans. They dont get much lubrication and stick. I think the light grounds at the actuator."

I crawled under the van and opened the engine bay but can't see the top of the tranny.

Can someone post a picture of the rod I need to lubricate or describe exactly where this rod is and how best to access it?

thank you!

I was thinking it might have something to do with this vacuum gadget on the passengers side of the tranny? No?

[ALIKA T3]

The vacuum gadget is the actuator. In the center is the actuator rod, hidden under a rubber sleeve.

Test the actuation with a vacuum pump, disconnect the hoses, put a long hose on the inner nipple and suck on it. Works by mouth too. Lift the rear right wheel and spin in while doing so to line up cogs in the differential. If nothing is happening, you gotta take the whole thing apart, plent threads talking about this here. You're gonna have a lot of fun...
If indeed it's corroded, upgrade to stainless steel sleeve and shaft, new quad rings and forget about these problems.
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Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[MarkWard]

Above the vacuum actuator screwed into the transmission case is a 2 wire switch. You could unplug the switch and jump the wire. That should turn the indicator light on, but that is just an electrical test for the light.

You are about to go down the syncro learning hole. It's frustrating, but good experience to have. A vacuum pump/gauge is handy to have for troubleshooting the system. Its a very straightforward system once you figure it out.

Assuming it is stuck, you will likely need to remove the vacuum servo to access the pin. I made a T handle tool to replace the servo temporarily so I could move the pin manually. If you unscrew the indicator switch, you might be able to work some lube into the shaft if it is stuck. Good luck.

[borninabus]

i was just going to point out the the OP that the dash knob is for the rear locking differential and has no effect on the AWD system other than locking the rear diff. the van is AWD all the time.
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88 Van WBX, A/T - 93 Multivan 5cyl 5M/T - 13 JSW TDI 6M/T - 2012 Touareg TDI Sport

[MsTaboo]

I see split and corroded rubber vac elbows. Most likely the system leaks vacuum and because of this the locker actuator has not worked for some time so it's probably good and stuck.

How good a mechanic are you? This is not something you want to approach ham-fisted. There are parts involved which are NLA or at least very hard to find and as you can see there's not much room to work.

I would suggest you do a search and spend some time reading threads about the locker actuator and the necessary work required.

Before you try working on it you'll want to clean the area to prevent fine grit from getting into things. The stock rubber cover over the actuator rod is very stiff and hard to move and there is a tiny 3 x 10mm roll pin which needs to be punched out to free up the actuator.
You need to be careful about wrenching things about, the tip of the actuator rod is fragile and can break off.

Here's a couple searches to get you started. Not all of them will help but will get you going.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc...=titleonly

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?searc...=titleonly

I would start by making sure the system holds vacuum, or at least give the lines a good going over and replace the old rubber bits that most likely are leaking. Maybe you will get lucky and just restoring good vacuum will be enough to free up the rod.

Keep in mind it's better for the locker actuator rod to be stuck in the un-engaged mode than stuck engaged. A Syncro with an inoperable rear locker is drivable, but stuck on you're limited to dirt roads . Make sure you're ready to tackle the whole job before starting.

EDIT: Here's a couple pictures to help you visualize what's there.
In this one you can see the stock style rod cover made of black rubber/with metal ring.
You need to pry the metal ring aside to access the roll-pin.

And here's what helps in the future, a replacement clear hose.
You can see the rod with the actuator pin offset. The blob of sealant is where the hole is drilled through the hose to get a punch onto the roll-pin to drive out.
You cannot remove the actuator body without driving out that roll-pin!

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Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec

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