CPR engine

[pdjafari]

So after months of research, reading various threads, being referred by many members AND having spoken to Anibal a few months back I have decided to let CPR build my engine.

Now Ive set a budget of around 3500-3750 for an engine and its not one I plan on racing. I merely want an engine that is #1 Reliable. Reliability is my one and only concern, as I want something that will last for years. My second concern is some performance. I am not going to race, but want to be able to move around town and/or keep up with some traffic.

Anibal recommended the torque master 10 (1776) w/ some decent power/torque. I am not sure what parts/components will be a part of the internals so please dont ask. I am hoping that you guys here can recommend the parts/internals to make this thing more reliable.

Crank/pistons/rods/heads/cams/push rod tubes/valve springs ???

Case?? AS41??
head studs ??
Scat 69mm counterweighted crank or C.B. 4140 forged crank???
Stock I beam rods or upgrades??
Engle 110 cam or a different set?
Lifters, what type??
Lightened flywheel or what brand/type?/
__mmoil pump and pump
Mahle pistons?? or another brand??
what heads and springs??
what type of shafts?
SVDA or bosch 009??
I do want a serpentine system, which brand??
Kadrons or webers??
Clutch??
Exhaust??

I want to know what setup is most reliable and most cost effective.

Remember, I only have $3750 saved for my engine so whatever route I take must be below that mark (include shipping). I will most likely opt for a stock clutch and an A1 exhaust. I will probably also get ceramic coated heater boxes just to prevent future rust.

The car is not a race car/drag car, just something I want to cruise around in, which will start every time I jump in. Initially I had set aside 3k as my maximum for an engine build. No health insurance and hospital bills =

I was able to save up some more regardless just to get that much closer to my goal.

What do you guys recommend, and is the Torque master 10 already good enough, or should I have Chico swap out some of its parts/internals to make it more reliable. I dont believe he uses stainless steel push rod tubes and heavy duty valve springs on the TM10, but I could be wrong, should I ask him to include these on the build or is it a waste all together??

Last but not least, shipping is a b1tch!!!

[Namocsid]

Part of having a professional build an engine for you is their expertise in the selection of the proper parts and components for the build.

I'd suggest you talk with Chico about any "upgrades" he would recommend to his normal Torque Master 10 package.

Be honest about your budget, and I'm sure he'll work with you and you'll get a great engine for a fair price.
_________________
ITMC - Backyard chapter

Hold the pickles, it's 100% pure beef Namocsid!

[74 Thing]

Yep, you are on a budget and should be directing all these questions to your engine builder and see what he can do and you need to be honest with him about your expectations and driving style. Getting a complete engine is expensive, but it is also usually proven and broken in a dynoed. Only thing I would do for sure no matter what you budget is is have the heads ported.

[pdjafari]

what good would having the heads ported do?? Performance??

[CJG]

Good heads are the most important to make good horse power and torque.

[Glenn]

[krusher]

Well from there site it looks like the 1776-1835-1914 basic package is $3500, and that says not clutch or exhaust, so with the sidewinder and a clutch and shipping i think your budget is blown.

[marekv8]

I recently bought a 1776 torque master 10 from Chico and it was a smooth experience. I left the specs completely up to him and only added a DTM to the mix. Chico also recommended and supplied the ceramic coated exhaust as part of the deal. The final numbers were 87/117 which I thought were appropriate.

[pdjafari]

[krusher]

[thefabulousnip]

I bought a TM10 1776 from Chico about a year back now. I think you may have to up you budget just a wee bit, but it should be doable for close to what you're planning. Just talk with him and let him know what you want. For a daily driver, that package can't be beat. I know that he uses DPR cranks/flywheels and the TM10 has a custom grind cam.

BTW, mine dynoed at 95 hp@5000 and 125 lb-ft@3000.

[Sigurd]

^Is that at the crank or the wheels?