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Everyone needs their very own second battery thread, right?
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McVanagon
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 6:03 am    Post subject: Everyone needs their very own second battery thread, right? Reply with quote

Thanks to all for the posts, wiring diagrams, product reviews, and photos. I finally started my second battery project this weekend. I will probably still have a few questions about additional wiring, but here are some pics of what I have completed so far…

Before shot: Notice the 1988 penny.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Peel and stick insulation started, Ground Bolt, Dry fitting of everything.
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This is how I routed the 8ga wire from the main box to the aux box. The carpet was loose on the inside angled corner of both boxes. I made two holes in the sheet metal, and tweeked the holes to allow the wire to enter at an angle. Once the wire hit the floor, I was able to route it under the corner trim. I had to cut out a little corner of the matting to keep it hidden.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Now you see it.....
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Now you don’t....
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This is where Yandina will live. It will be out of sight with the jumpseat installed, but accessible. Does anyone else wish the Yandina's leads didn't exit the face of the unit? I cut a piece out of the jumpseat support bar to allow the leads to feed into the aux box.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Finished.
Those two large posts are satellite posts for each battery. I only wanted to have one lead on each each battery. Any battery connection will feed from those. Now I have access to main batt 12v in the aux box, too.
I still need to do the other box, and hook up accessories.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Yandia switch to manually combine and separate, if needed. (thanks Dogpilot for the idea)
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**Edit**
Minus the 40amp fuse between the main battery and the Yandina, this is how the Yandina is wired.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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'69 Mike
'85 GL
'87 Wolfsburg Hardtop


Last edited by McVanagon on Thu Apr 30, 2009 4:55 am; edited 4 times in total
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Lanval
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jayzus!! Thanks for the amazing write up plus pix - Me n' Nathan@el are both setting up to run dual batteries, and this is sexy as hell.

On a down note, you're work makes me feel somewhat inadequate.

Unparalleled work!!

Best,

Lanval
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 9:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice, neat job!

I wish I could have found one of those nice gold-plated inline fuse holders for mine. I used an 80A fusible link instead, but I will replace that with one of those when I can find one locally. Local Radio Crack carries them, but he said they get stolen as soon as he puts them on the shelf by the local subwoofer freaks. One of these days I'll pop into a stereo install place and pick one up.

Yeah, I wish the Yandina's leads exited out the side of the unit, not the top face. Only complaint I have with it. Otherwise, it's a really slick and well-thought-out item.

We have almost the same amp. You're running yours off the main battery, no?
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McVanagon
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tencentlife wrote:
Very nice, neat job!

I wish I could have found one of those nice gold-plated inline fuse holders for mine. .

We have almost the same amp. You're running yours off the main battery, no?


Thanks, 10c... I have a boat shop and a radioshack near by, and those were the only big inline fuse holders I could find.. RS had them, and only had two, all I needed for now...

I run that big amp (and a smaller one under the pass seat) off the main batt, and will run the radio off the aux. I just need to figure out which speakers to run non-amplified. Might leave the rears passive... won't be able to hear them over the cabinet anyway.

That's one of the reasons I did those two remote posts in the aux box, since I image most future wiring will be going through the dash fusebox, or down the driver's side of the car to the rear... Makes wiring easier if I can tap off those.... They are a little bigger than I wanted... They looked a little smaller on the website Embarassed

Here's a new question.. If I want to transfer int lights, cig lighter, and radio to the aux batt. Since it all falls under one fuse, can I tap the line after the dash fuse, then take the fuse out to disable the previous circuit? If I ever take the aux batt out, it would be as simple as putting the fuse back in to reestablish the old circuit... right?
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exactly. As long as you either tap the output line from the fuse panel to the cig lighter (B11, not B12) , or insert a male plug directly into the fuse socket, sans fuse, you'll be applying power at a point where the wire size is adequate for the current the cig lighter can draw. Removing the #3 fuse will prevent backfeeding power into the main vehicle wiring, which would essentially join your two batteries together by a parallel circuit despite the isolator. Then reverting to stock is as simple as removing your feeder and reinserting the fuse.

We got into this in some detail here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=244500&highlight=lighter+fuse
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McVanagon
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just spent an hour or so working on the main box....

BEFORE: What's up with the pennies??? This one was an '89
I was also suprised to see this '87 had all the original glass, with the exception of the passenger door roll-up. Found some of the original glass under here, too.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This looks like a good canidate for some insulation...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


All done for today.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm using another one of those posts to hook all the main battery leads to. There will be one (already routed) to the aux box, one to the other amp, and one for the horn....

I still have to run everything to the dashboard and install the goodies from from the old van (horn, stereo, 12v plug).
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'85 GL
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Last edited by McVanagon on Tue Aug 07, 2007 3:56 am; edited 1 time in total
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you don't know how good you have it with no swivel bases welded in! I wish they would have came up with a removeable mount in the westies!

Lookin' good man!
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been there:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=238428&highlight=swivel+seat+base
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McVanagon
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just worked a little more on the car. A little frustrating that I had had everyting installed, but nothing hooked up. Put fuses in all the holders, and started it up... within a minute, the Yandina clicked on, and started charging the second battery.... I have no idea how long it will take to charge it.
I thought I was going to pull the interior panels off, to get these cables to the back, but it ended up being easier....
I pulled the carpet back and cut about a 1/2 inch of the matting away in order to run speaker wires, CD changer cable, and an extra 12g wire for future whatevers....
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I grabbed a piece of 1" pvc, cut in in half to get those few wires up to where I cut the hole into the aux box. Still looking for a better color grey rattle can...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I tapped into the dashboard, and ta-daa... Aux battery running all cabin lights, cigar lighter, and radio.
See--- light.......radio......missing #3 fuse!
If the Yandina, or something else goes wrong, I can pull the fuse on the aux block, and replace the one in the main fusebox to return to normal... (or if I blow the main aux box fuse)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

What a mess..........
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Tomorow, I'm gonna try to get those rear speakers hooked up..

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Question. What's that three wire group that runs under the matting beneath the driver's feet? I reconnected them after slicing them in half, I am just curious what they were....... Factory rear speakers?
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tclark
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 6:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

McVanagon wrote:

his is how I routed the 8ga wire from the main box to the aux box. The carpet was loose on the inside angled corner of both boxes. I made two holes in the sheet metal, and tweeked the holes to allow the wire to enter at an angle. Once the wire hit the floor, I was able to route it under the corner trim. I had to cut out a little corner of the matting to keep it hi

what no rubber gromets when passing power through metal box/frame ?
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McVanagon
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tclark wrote:
What, no rubber gromets when passing power through metal box/frame ?


Oval hole was too tweeked. I did, however, used a split rubber hose to insulate the wire....
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Last edited by McVanagon on Wed Sep 26, 2007 5:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
What's that three wire group that runs under the matting beneath the driver's feet?


That should be the leads for the driver's seatbelt clasp switch and the handbrake switch. I've removed my warning buzzer relay (I'll do the talking, Mr. Van, thank you very much) so I used the seatbelt wires to bring aux 12V and the Yandina remote signal wire back up to the main panel. I will install a combiner remote switch somewhere accessible to the driver, probably in the plastic steering column top cowling. I found a tiny little SPDT on-off-on switch at RS for the purpose.
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woggs1
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I tapped into the dashboard, and ta-daa... Aux battery running all cabin lights, cigar lighter, and radio.
See--- light.......radio......missing #3 fuse!


I want to do this. Where exactly did you tap into in the dash board? And where did you route the wire to the second battery?

Thanks
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McVanagon
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

woggs1 wrote:
Quote:
I tapped into the dashboard, and ta-daa... Aux battery running all cabin lights, cigar lighter, and radio.
See--- light.......radio......missing #3 fuse!


I want to do this. Where exactly did you tap into in the dash board? And where did you route the wire to the second battery?

Thanks


I traced the cigar lighter hot wire back from the lighter, and tapped into it between the main fuse box and the lighter. I pulled the fuse, then ran 12v from the aux fuse box to it. I used 12ga wire and a 15amp fuse. (actually, I used the same fuse that was in the main panel)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I cut the wire, crimped them together, and hooked up the 12v from the aux panel.
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tencentlife
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There ya go.
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woggs1
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:


PostPosted: Today, 12:07 pm Post subject: Reply with quote
woggs1 wrote:
Quote:
I tapped into the dashboard, and ta-daa... Aux battery running all cabin lights, cigar lighter, and radio.
See--- light.......radio......missing #3 fuse!


I want to do this. Where exactly did you tap into in the dash board? And where did you route the wire to the second battery?

Thanks


I traced the cigar lighter hot wire back from the lighter, and tapped into it between the main fuse box and the lighter. I pulled the fuse, then ran 12v from the aux fuse box to it. I used 12ga wire and a 15amp fuse. (actually, I used the same fuse that was in the main panel)



Thanks!
I am tearing into it right now.

Woggs1
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techbot
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been following this post quite religiously and was wondering if someone has a good photo of how they grounded their aux battery?

I'm mid yandina install and am still trying to figure out how to tidily get all this stuff worked out.. thanks!
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McVanagon
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

techbot wrote:
was wondering if someone has a good photo of how they grounded their aux battery?


Under the driver's seat, in the mirror image of where the battery secure bolt is on the passenger side, is a spot where one would be...

That is just a pre drilled hole sealed with tape from underneath. Push down from the top to release the tape, and grab yourself some nuts, bolts, and washers. I coated the bejeezuz out of the bottom with sealant when I fed the bolt and washer up from the wheelwell. Be sure you grind/sand the top surface where the top washer will come in contact with the metal.
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Last edited by McVanagon on Tue May 13, 2008 3:34 am; edited 2 times in total
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McVanagon
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 01, 2007 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just added an interupt for the amp remote wire. Wished I could have found a black one.. Oh well, it was only $2.00, and you can't really see it with the seat installed...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

moog not included.
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Jamos
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great pictures and info in this thread...
thank you very much to everyone who's contributed.

I have an '86 Westy weekender with the stock battery relay setup under the driver's seat.
I'm in the process of moving my amp/stereo power over to my aux battery.
Also I'd like to do the #3 fuse thing for the interior lighting and cigar socket.

-Can anyone confirm that the #3 fuse also powers the flourescent light in my '86 weekender?

-What kind of connector did you use to feed the cigar socket + voltage in that picture? It looks like a butt-splice, but one side is much fatter than the other. Any other ideas for other good connectors to tap in like that? I'd like something more permanent than a crimp on connector if possible.

-Anyone know a good source for a small, say 6-bank, fuse box?

-I just tested the voltage at my batts because I was concerned the alternator may be on it's way out...but it seems alright. I measured exactly 12.44v at both batteries and both cigar lighters with the engine off, and 13.88 with the engine running. This seems normal and decent, yes?

cheers.
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