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List of essential tips/tricks when street buggy building?
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bradnailer
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 11:12 am    Post subject: List of essential tips/tricks when street buggy building? Reply with quote

Not sure if there's a list somewhere but I searched and didn't see one.

I was thinking this when I saw Murzi point out in a different thread that a Moore/Mohr mid mount is almost a must have in a buggy. I had never heard of one before that.

Are there any other tips or tricks that others can add to the list?


Another one I learned from here is the Volvo 240 brake reservoir that fits on the master brake cylinder.
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MURZI
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The mid mount was a suggestion because it it easier to install than welding or drilling frame horns for a strap.


Also with IRS, you should flip the rear trailing arms and cut and reweld the shocks mounts for correct camber on severely lowered cars.
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lostinbaja
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spend time to plan the wiring and use only top quality wire, connectors and terminals.
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bradnailer
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll add another I learned the hard way - drill your rear tail lights AFTER you install the engine in case your dual carbs hits the light assembly on the inside! I did manage to get around it though by buying different air cleaners - it's still close though!
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MURZI
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Read study and document the build down to specific part numbers....so the next one will go together like butter Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes
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seabeebuggy
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what ever the budget is times that by 4. that will get you rolling not done.
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glassbuggy
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 10:12 pm    Post subject: wiring Reply with quote

You have to ground all your lights, A big tip is grounding a screw on your fuel sender or your guage won't work

scribe a line on your shift rod before cutting to ensure proper alignment
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vdubyah73
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 6:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Measure a million times before cutting or welding.

Bill
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Lo Cash John
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Learn to use the "SEARCH" button here at The Samba.
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use the threaded shift rod adjuster, they provide easy length and side to side adjustment.

Mount your fuse block(ASE type) where you can reach it without standing on your head.

Patch over the heater control slots in the tunnel around the parking brake bracket or cracks will start there.

If you use an aftermarket gas pedal, mount the base further to the rear than stock, so the pedal is more inclined and much more comfortable.
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manxdavid
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you want the car to ride nicely on the street don't be tempted by gas or coil-over dampers, stick to stock style oil filled ones.

Don't go for too low a profile tire either if you want to keep the fillings in your teeth, and keep tire pressures on the low side. 16psi front and 20psi rear will do it.
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manxdavid
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you want the car to ride nicely on the street don't be tempted by gas or coil-over dampers, stick to stock style oil filled ones.

Don't go for too low a profile tire either if you want to keep the fillings in your teeth, and keep tire pressures on the low side. 16psi front and 20psi rear will do it.
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Oz Towdster
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fit a real roll bar NOT a style bar and NO fibreglass is NOT a mounting point for roll bars
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engineerorange
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Include restoring your chassis in your budget. If it's rubber, plastic, a wear item, or brake related, replace it before you ever even think about putting the body on. We are now working with 40+ year old chassis'. Tie rod ends, ball joints, shifter rod bushings, steering box seals, brake lines, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, and wheel bearings all gave their service lives years ago. Your paint or gel-coat will thank you later. Triple your budget and if you are married hide all your receipts and invoices.
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MURZI
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

engineerorange wrote:
Include restoring your chassis in your budget. If it's rubber, plastic, a wear item, or brake related, replace it before you ever even think about putting the body on. We are now working with 40+ year old chassis'. Tie rod ends, ball joints, shifter rod bushings, steering box seals, brake lines, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, and wheel bearings all gave their service lives years ago. Your paint or gel-coat will thank you later. Triple your budget and if you are married hide all your receipts and invoices.



Amen to that
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superbuggy2165
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Third that...
1: I would say definitely choose the right wheels and tyres first, it makes so much difference to a buggy if it looks "right", it gives you more motivation to get the whole job done properly.
2: Take your time building, botching and measuring, you will never regret spending "too much time" on building your buggy, but your wife/girlfriend might...
3: Buy "BIG" chrome headlights, they look so good when they are in your line of sight when you're driving.
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d-bug
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good tips thx. this is my first big auto project at 18 and all thes tips help a lot. I dont half2 hide all my receipts but that tripleing of the money and spending two mutch time on the buggy is a real fact. this is my girlfriends face every day i say buggy Evil or Very Mad
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vdubyah73
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 4:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

d-bug wrote:
Good tips thx. this is my first big auto project at 18 and all thes tips help a lot. I dont half2 hide all my receipts but that tripleing of the money and spending two mutch time on the buggy is a real fact. this is my girlfriends face every day i say buggy Evil or Very Mad


If she can't support you and your hobby, move on. You're only 18 once!

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mach4
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just had my clutch tube let go and after reviewing the Samba posts, this appears to be a fairly common problem. Sure wish I had thought to reweld and reinforce the attach points for the clutch tube while I had my tunnel open for shortening, the chassis torn down, the body off, the welder warmed up and "easy" access. You might get lucky... then again what's one more little task along the way.
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BuggyFun
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To keep the dash clean I kept the speedo and switches mounted directly into the fiberglass dash. Which means every time i have to remove the bonet i have to reach behind the dash and unplug all the whires from speedo and unscrew the switches.

If I did it again i'd cut the dash and get some carbon, polished stainless etc to cover the hole and mount all the electrics to it. This would have saved me so much time in the long run.

Also check you're fuel tanks, mine was touching the top of the frame head which cracked it and caused a rather large fuel leak. Rolling Eyes
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