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bradnailer Samba Member

Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 85 Location: BC
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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 11:12 am Post subject: List of essential tips/tricks when street buggy building? |
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Not sure if there's a list somewhere but I searched and didn't see one.
I was thinking this when I saw Murzi point out in a different thread that a Moore/Mohr mid mount is almost a must have in a buggy. I had never heard of one before that.
Are there any other tips or tricks that others can add to the list?
Another one I learned from here is the Volvo 240 brake reservoir that fits on the master brake cylinder. |
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MURZI Samba Member

Joined: August 25, 2005 Posts: 5066 Location: Madisonville, La
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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 4:19 pm Post subject: |
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The mid mount was a suggestion because it it easier to install than welding or drilling frame horns for a strap.
Also with IRS, you should flip the rear trailing arms and cut and reweld the shocks mounts for correct camber on severely lowered cars. _________________ 62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam |
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lostinbaja Samba Member
Joined: December 19, 2004 Posts: 4036 Location: Frankfort, Illinois
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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 6:19 pm Post subject: |
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Spend time to plan the wiring and use only top quality wire, connectors and terminals. _________________ Jerry...
If it's being towed, it must be a trailer!
"Vee Grow Too Soon Oldt Und Too Late Schmardt"
RIP Morgan
My photos
http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/album92 |
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bradnailer Samba Member

Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 85 Location: BC
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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 7:37 pm Post subject: |
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| I'll add another I learned the hard way - drill your rear tail lights AFTER you install the engine in case your dual carbs hits the light assembly on the inside! I did manage to get around it though by buying different air cleaners - it's still close though! |
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MURZI Samba Member

Joined: August 25, 2005 Posts: 5066 Location: Madisonville, La
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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 8:38 pm Post subject: |
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Read study and document the build down to specific part numbers....so the next one will go together like butter  _________________ 62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam |
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seabeebuggy Samba Member

Joined: October 03, 2005 Posts: 2395 Location: NM, CA, UT and now NV
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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 8:52 pm Post subject: |
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what ever the budget is times that by 4. that will get you rolling not done. _________________ Seabee turbo buggy build
(Quote Runslikeapenguin said)
so to everyone else whos not a retarded butt pirate marine with an tacky ugly ass car covered in auto zone bolt and stick on s**t. (end quote)
A better place to talk offroad |
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glassbuggy Samba Member

Joined: June 02, 2005 Posts: 918
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Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 10:12 pm Post subject: wiring |
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You have to ground all your lights, A big tip is grounding a screw on your fuel sender or your guage won't work
scribe a line on your shift rod before cutting to ensure proper alignment |
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vdubyah73 Samba Member

Joined: July 05, 2003 Posts: 2541 Location: somewhere in Texas, my house has wheels
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Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 6:09 am Post subject: |
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Measure a million times before cutting or welding.
Bill _________________ burning down the house
73 bounty hunter, sold.
'77 transporter, junked had crotch rot.
Dubless, but have a CPR built stroker waiting for a new to me Beetle
'93 Fleetwood Bounder 34' |
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Lo Cash John Samba Member

Joined: February 06, 2004 Posts: 2287 Location: Jacksonville, FL
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Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 7:22 am Post subject: |
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Learn to use the "SEARCH" button here at The Samba. _________________ www.LoCashRacing.org
Lo' Cash Racing Team on Facebook
More brains than bucks...Believe it or not!!
My boss told me I need to work on my mutli-tasking. So now when I use the bathroom at work I surf The Samba on my iPhone. |
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BL3Manx Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2006 Posts: 6768 Location: Northern California
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Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 8:53 pm Post subject: |
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Use the threaded shift rod adjuster, they provide easy length and side to side adjustment.
Mount your fuse block(ASE type) where you can reach it without standing on your head.
Patch over the heater control slots in the tunnel around the parking brake bracket or cracks will start there.
If you use an aftermarket gas pedal, mount the base further to the rear than stock, so the pedal is more inclined and much more comfortable. |
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manxdavid Samba Member

Joined: November 24, 2003 Posts: 1841 Location: David Jones, Anglesey, North Wales, UK. Manxclub #678.
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Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 10:36 am Post subject: |
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If you want the car to ride nicely on the street don't be tempted by gas or coil-over dampers, stick to stock style oil filled ones.
Don't go for too low a profile tire either if you want to keep the fillings in your teeth, and keep tire pressures on the low side. 16psi front and 20psi rear will do it. |
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manxdavid Samba Member

Joined: November 24, 2003 Posts: 1841 Location: David Jones, Anglesey, North Wales, UK. Manxclub #678.
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Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 10:38 am Post subject: |
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If you want the car to ride nicely on the street don't be tempted by gas or coil-over dampers, stick to stock style oil filled ones.
Don't go for too low a profile tire either if you want to keep the fillings in your teeth, and keep tire pressures on the low side. 16psi front and 20psi rear will do it. |
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Oz Towdster Samba Member
Joined: November 08, 2004 Posts: 133 Location: Brisbane QLD Australia
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Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 1:58 pm Post subject: |
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| Fit a real roll bar NOT a style bar and NO fibreglass is NOT a mounting point for roll bars |
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engineerorange Samba Member
Joined: October 23, 2006 Posts: 229 Location: Catawba, NC
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Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 3:17 pm Post subject: |
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| Include restoring your chassis in your budget. If it's rubber, plastic, a wear item, or brake related, replace it before you ever even think about putting the body on. We are now working with 40+ year old chassis'. Tie rod ends, ball joints, shifter rod bushings, steering box seals, brake lines, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, and wheel bearings all gave their service lives years ago. Your paint or gel-coat will thank you later. Triple your budget and if you are married hide all your receipts and invoices. |
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MURZI Samba Member

Joined: August 25, 2005 Posts: 5066 Location: Madisonville, La
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Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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| engineerorange wrote: |
| Include restoring your chassis in your budget. If it's rubber, plastic, a wear item, or brake related, replace it before you ever even think about putting the body on. We are now working with 40+ year old chassis'. Tie rod ends, ball joints, shifter rod bushings, steering box seals, brake lines, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, and wheel bearings all gave their service lives years ago. Your paint or gel-coat will thank you later. Triple your budget and if you are married hide all your receipts and invoices. |
Amen to that _________________ 62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam |
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superbuggy2165 Samba Member

Joined: October 07, 2006 Posts: 39
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Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:34 am Post subject: |
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Third that...
1: I would say definitely choose the right wheels and tyres first, it makes so much difference to a buggy if it looks "right", it gives you more motivation to get the whole job done properly.
2: Take your time building, botching and measuring, you will never regret spending "too much time" on building your buggy, but your wife/girlfriend might...
3: Buy "BIG" chrome headlights, they look so good when they are in your line of sight when you're driving. _________________ Streetracer 2165
Beachbuggy
Bed |
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d-bug Samba Member

Joined: August 31, 2007 Posts: 11
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Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 6:28 pm Post subject: |
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Good tips thx. this is my first big auto project at 18 and all thes tips help a lot. I dont half2 hide all my receipts but that tripleing of the money and spending two mutch time on the buggy is a real fact. this is my girlfriends face every day i say buggy  _________________ Work fascinates me, I can look at it for hours! |
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vdubyah73 Samba Member

Joined: July 05, 2003 Posts: 2541 Location: somewhere in Texas, my house has wheels
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Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 4:21 am Post subject: |
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| d-bug wrote: |
Good tips thx. this is my first big auto project at 18 and all thes tips help a lot. I dont half2 hide all my receipts but that tripleing of the money and spending two mutch time on the buggy is a real fact. this is my girlfriends face every day i say buggy  |
If she can't support you and your hobby, move on. You're only 18 once!
Bill _________________ burning down the house
73 bounty hunter, sold.
'77 transporter, junked had crotch rot.
Dubless, but have a CPR built stroker waiting for a new to me Beetle
'93 Fleetwood Bounder 34' |
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mach4 Samba Member

Joined: February 26, 2006 Posts: 153 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 9:09 am Post subject: |
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| I just had my clutch tube let go and after reviewing the Samba posts, this appears to be a fairly common problem. Sure wish I had thought to reweld and reinforce the attach points for the clutch tube while I had my tunnel open for shortening, the chassis torn down, the body off, the welder warmed up and "easy" access. You might get lucky... then again what's one more little task along the way. |
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BuggyFun Samba Member
Joined: September 18, 2007 Posts: 7 Location: Southampton UK
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Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 1:20 pm Post subject: |
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To keep the dash clean I kept the speedo and switches mounted directly into the fiberglass dash. Which means every time i have to remove the bonet i have to reach behind the dash and unplug all the whires from speedo and unscrew the switches.
If I did it again i'd cut the dash and get some carbon, polished stainless etc to cover the hole and mount all the electrics to it. This would have saved me so much time in the long run.
Also check you're fuel tanks, mine was touching the top of the frame head which cracked it and caused a rather large fuel leak.  |
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