Daily driver/High Performance Engine Combination????

[negroprieto]

color=blue]Hello Guys,

Just trying to compile information on a good engine combination that would give good performance with the reliability of daily driving . Your inputs a greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Javier
Jax, Fl[/color]

[The Noof]

2110 .

[SRP1]

[scott s]

Here's my 2110 combo for my daily driver. Still inder construction, so no dyno or real-world driving impressions yet.
I built it to:
*Run cool
*Make lots of torque
*Make power w/o having to rev to 8K
*Last a long time

82mm CB crank
5.400" Eagle H-beams
90.5mm Cima/Mahles
DRD L5 heads, 043 casting 40x35.5 valves
SLR XR-302 camshaft (similar to FK-8 on 106* centers)
1.5" merged heater box exhaust, Dynomax muffler
45 DRLA Dell'Ortos on match ported manifolds, CB update kit
010 distributor with Pertronix and MSD 6AL box
~8.5:1 CR

Plus your normal full flow, deep sump, 12lb flywheel, straight cuts, etc, etc.
I kept the cam reasonable and the valves/ports/exhaust "small-ish" to promote air speed and build TQ. You can run bigger valves/exhaust and even cam, but it will move the powerband UP in the rev range. I wanted a stump puller.

[The Noof]

[Rude-e]

[darkdune]

here is my engine that was built for reliablility and power, while still running cool

2054CC, made 150HP on the dyno @ 6000RPM

74mm OKRASA forged crank, knife edged and rebalanced.
94 Cima (A) pistons.
DPR stoker rods, Type B,
AS21 German Fat Back fuel injected case, STD.
German 12 lb flywheel, balanced
Berg Cromolly gland nut, Tq’d to 400 lb
Engle FK-8 cam
German Wiseman lifters
New cam gear
Cromolly head studs (8mm)
044 heads, ported by DRD Heads and finished by ACE, Italian stainless valves, set up for .600” lift.
IAP Forged 1.4 rockers
Manton Pushrods, cut to fit
Push rod tubes are Stainless
Oil pump is SHADAK, Pump cover is a full flow (iron)
Compression is 8.7:1

i really think this combo will last a long time, with out sacrificing power.
_________________
60 percent of the time it works every time.

[scott s]

Are you starting from scratch or do you have any parts to start with? From scratch....figure $5K easy....maybe more.

Oh, and I don't know what's with the smiley. The SLR cam is similar to an Engle FK8.

[The Noof]

[scott s]

Some things you'll notice they have in common:

*Heads: 043 is a stock casting, 044 is a very nice casting with extra meat and stock fins. Both of these will cool well.

*Cam: K8 or similar. You can also go with the Engle 120 and 1.25 rockers and have similar specs to a K8/1.4 rocker combo. CB Perf sells a K8-like cam as well

*Compression: Keeping it sane for cooling and use of pump gas. Plenty of people run 9 or even 10:1, but somewhere around 8.5:1 will make good power and almost always run cool...keep it between 8.5 and 9:1

*Oiling: ALWAYS run AT LEAST a 1.5qt. sump and full-flow. Several companies make them. I like the Berg full-flow kit. Their sumps are really nice, too, but the Chinese and CB sumps seem to work fine, too.

*Intake and exhaust: Darkdune doesn't mention what he's running, but keep it simple for the street. Weber IDF's (44's) or Dell's (40 or 45's) so you can run air cleaners and have good progression circuits. I, and many others, have run IDA's on the street. Not necessary for ~140-150HP and the other carbs are a bit less finicky.
For exhaust, keep it around 1.5" (especially if you need big-bore heater boxes) or 1 5/8". Anything else is overkill and made for big heads, big cams and big RPM's.

The H-beam rods are nice, but some good clearanced stock rods with good bolts are fine. Straight cuts add a couple of HP but also add noise....some like it, some don't. Helical gears are fine.
We could talk about lifters all night long. These days Udo's ($$$$) and CB Perf. lightweight lifters seem to be working well. Getting mixed reports about the SLR'd SCAT lifters. I had two sets of SCATs fail on me....one stock, one with the SLR treatment. Those Udo's lifters seem really affordable after two engine rebuilds and two new cams and two new sets of springs. Just my opinion...others will argue to the death with me over this one.
The MSD adds ZERO horsepower but provides a hot, clean spark and can make starting easier and keep you from fouling plugs. Bare minimum, get an 009, Pertronix and good wires.
If budget provides, get a welded balanced fan.

[darkdune]

sorry, i have 48IDA's

here's my motor, right after it was built

and i have a 010 distributor

_________________
60 percent of the time it works every time.

[negroprieto]

Thanks all for your inputs!!!!

[bumblebeecaz]

here you go read this , it should give you some ideas

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/t1hpeng.htm




just my 2 cents

[neil68]

I currently have a 2017 cc with Engle FK8 and IDA's. It is a great daily driver...very smooth with the FK8...the IDA's have the third progression holes, etc. It is also a lot of fun at the track on Friday nights!!

I've had great results with the 90.5 Mahle piston kits, so would recommend you go with either a 2017 or 2110, for a stroker option. If you want to use the stock crank, then a 1776 with last forever, in my experience (33 years+).

Good luck!

[Tkisner]

[darkdune]

what do u guys mean by buzzy
_________________
60 percent of the time it works every time.

[DRD RACING HEADS]

Here's my 2110 combo for my daily driver. Still inder construction, so no dyno or real-world driving impressions yet.
I built it to:
*Run cool
*Make lots of torque
*Make power w/o having to rev to 8K
*Last a long time

82mm CB crank
5.400" Eagle H-beams
90.5mm Cima/Mahles
DRD L5 heads, 043 casting 40x35.5 valves
SLR XR-302 camshaft (similar to FK-8 on 106* centers)
1.5" merged heater box exhaust, Dynomax muffler
45 DRLA Dell'Ortos on match ported manifolds, CB update kit
010 distributor with Pertronix and MSD 6AL box
~8.5:1 CR

Plus your normal full flow, deep sump, 12lb flywheel, straight cuts, etc, etc.
I kept the cam reasonable and the valves/ports/exhaust "small-ish" to promote air speed and build TQ. You can run bigger valves/exhaust and even cam, but it will move the powerband UP in the rev range. I wanted a stump puller.




I just built a engine for a customer like Scott has listed above, a little smaller cam,and dual 44mm webers, it made 155hp at 8.2 compression, pulled like tractor right off idle, power till 6k. The engine was designed for daily driver application, and very long life.

Good luck.
_________________
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"CNCHEADS and engine parts"

We sell What Works!
HTTP://WWW.DRDRACINGHEADS.COM
Email [email protected]
Phone-714-545-4100
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HTTP://WWW.DRDRACINGHEADS.COM/Xcart/

[scard]

[/quote]Here's my 2110 combo for my daily driver. Still inder construction, so no dyno or real-world driving impressions yet.
I built it to:
*Run cool
*Make lots of torque
*Make power w/o having to rev to 8K
*Last a long time

82mm CB crank
5.400" Eagle H-beams
90.5mm Cima/Mahles
DRD L5 heads, 043 casting 40x35.5 valves
SLR XR-302 camshaft (similar to FK-8 on 106* centers)
1.5" merged heater box exhaust, Dynomax muffler
45 DRLA Dell'Ortos on match ported manifolds, CB update kit
010 distributor with Pertronix and MSD 6AL box
~8.5:1 CR

Plus your normal full flow, deep sump, 12lb flywheel, straight cuts, etc, etc.
I kept the cam reasonable and the valves/ports/exhaust "small-ish" to promote air speed and build TQ. You can run bigger valves/exhaust and even cam, but it will move the powerband UP in the rev range. I wanted a stump puller.




I just built a engine for a customer like Scott has listed above, a little smaller cam,and dual 44mm webers, it made 155hp at 8.2 compression, pulled like tractor right off idle, power till 6k. The engine was designed for daily driver application, and very long life.

Good luck.

How much would that engine cost me if i wanted one?

[krusher]

[Alan_U]

What is longevity???

I would assume majority would not use a dial indicator to check cam lift. A high percentage of people go with "ignorance is bliss" and assume all is well.

I've been debating on building a longevity motor. I'd still use 94mm bore since there isn't any real issues of warpage on the cylinders with the larger piston/cyl kits from Mahle.

I would pay more attention to lifter bores. GET silicon/bronze lifter bore sleeves and your virutally guaranteed that you'll have no catastrophic faliures in lifter bore wobble. There is a good precentage of people rebuilding their engines due to lifter bore failure. I will NEVER build my personal engines without sleeving a mag case.

043 OR G03 head castings will be a great candidate for a longevity motor. 40mm intakes with a mild ramped cam will keep things somewhat light and mild on the valvetrain. Dual valve springs (VW OD) get soft quick so it'll be less stressful on the cam/lifter contact point as the miles of the engine increase. A 40mm valve is lighter than a 42mm, 44mm etc so the lighter the better for a strong running, power on demand longevity motor.

Heck for a street cruiser I'd keep a heavy stock flywheel.

Mag case with silicon bronze lifter bore sleeves
Case machined full flow for full oil filtration
Bugpack chromoly head studs (fits excellent with no cutting)
CB 28mm lightweight lifters or Udo becker tool steel lifters
94mm mahle kit
jaycee pushrods
K8 cam
bugpack or dynagear billet straight cut gears
CB 1.4 rockers with their excellent tool steel cup adjusters
82mm DMS or DPR welded stroker crank (buick/chevy journal)
ACL australian made conrod bearings (bored not broached like clevites)
5.4 CB H beams
1 5/8 merged
44 IDF's or 45 DRLA carbs
professionally ported 043's with 40x35.5
Oil capacity is nice so even a big sump would be nice

Crucial longevity concerns is lifters and cam. Silicon/bronze sleeves will make a huge difference in longevity. In the list is decent quality parts that wont destroy the bank.

Even with this milder setup I'd imagine that 2276 will live long and pull mid 13's in a 1800lbs car with stock gears. Perhaps faster times but not trying to swell your head

If you test your KV output on your engine you'll find that the KV output will be the same regardless of using MSD or a bosch blue coil with 010 with pertronix. Your engine will only use what is required. HOWEVER CDI multispark box will have more KV potential meaning it will provide more "juice" if it is required. In other words majority of all street cars will NEVERutilize the KV potential of a mallory/msd multispark CDI box.

If you buy a Mallory unilite your car will start well and have all the tunability. I've even found that my engine with UNILITE will literally fire up sooner than my older 050 and 009 distributor setup with pertronix.

If you use UDO Becker tool steel lifters you DO NOT have to worry about cam/lifter breakin. I started my virgin 2332 and idled it with my fk47 rampy cam. NO nail biting. Yes they cost alot more than other lifters but they will take more abuse then most lifters on the market.

Negroprieto, ask alot of questions. If you dont you'll regret not asking.
_________________
11.92sec pump gas true daily driver. Who says it cant be done.

No more time for VW's.......