HELP! Just Bought a 62 1835cc Bug and need help no info

[spegr]

Hi guys, been out of the VW scene for awhile......and just picked up this 62 1835cc...no info...estate sale been sitting 10 months. Except 1835cc, and obvious added a/c. Two questions:

Ran rough so I thought I'd start draining the tank and changing oil and spark plugs. I managed to pull one of the plugs and now I know why it's running bad. Nobody makes the NGK B5ES. Without starting a food fight, what spark plug are you guys using these days on a 1835cc DP performance head and how do I tell which head it is without breaking down the engine?

BUT more importantly HOW THE HELL AM I SUSPOSED TO CHANGHE THE SPARK PLUGS without dropping the engine or removing the carbs? Seriously? And what carbs are these? They are running way rich.

The last VW I owned was a 67 Bus so I would greatly appreciate any assistance and guidance on this one...because I'd like to get it dialed in and drive it! Thanks in advance!

Thanks

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[scott s]

Did you remove the heater hoses from the shroud, or was it like that when you got it?
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Nothing screams "poor workmanship" like wrinkles in the duct tape.

[spegr]

They pretty much crumbled when I went to take them off....yes I started to remove them in the pics? Any idea of carb id?

[71StandardReduction]

From what eye can see, looks like webber idf carbs.
Those are popular, although they could be other variants of that model.
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YHWH NISSI
YHWH SHALOM

64 Pan Buggy
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=10355566#10355566
Ruby Red 1966
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=779597&highlight=
66 Baja
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=792544&sid=1cfbb0e31e0ef24f8a1e9379e16fb18f

[scott s]

To make plug changes easier, install "Weber Windows" in the wheel wells. Until then, you can pull the carbs .... since you need to I.D. them anyway. They should have a number stamped on the side.

You can't tell what the heads/valve sizes are without removing them. Then you can measure the piston diameter and stroke to determine engine size.
_________________
Nothing screams "poor workmanship" like wrinkles in the duct tape.

[spegr]

Ok thanks guys, Weber Windows why haven’t I heard of those???? the spark
nGK spark plugs are 3/4” thread. I will
Pull the carbs and see what I’ve got. I appreciate your knowledge and will post a follow up.

[Cusser]

I also recommend Weber Windows, will help with spark plug changes with those dual carbs and AC compressor. I made my own "window" for driver side way back in the 1970s to get to plugs #3 and #4.

That's a modern AC system, that's good.

Heater hoses MUST be connected or at least block off at the fan shroud.

A 1962 body/engine lid needs to be vented with engines larger than about 1600cc, needs more air. Your solid engine lid impedes that.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[spegr]

[74 Thing]

Weber windows:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_search.php...t_dir=DESC

Decklid standoff or extension options:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_search.php...t_dir=DESC

https://store.vintagespeed.com.tw/search?keyword=extension

Make sure to go through the carbs completely when off cleaning with carb cleaner and compressed air and checking float levels since you will be taking the time to pull them and put them on the work bench.

[67rustavenger]

[Rome]

A few tips:
Cylinder heads: Pull a valve cover from either side of the engine (left one might be easier) with the engine cold. Most cylinder heads have a part number (P/N) molded into the vertical surface which you can see without any parts removal. This one starts with "113" (RubNDub gallery).

VW-based dual-port heads start with 311, 040, sometimes 041, or 043. Larger intake valves than the original 35.5 mm could've been installed in any of them. Aftermarket performance heads which came with larger intake valves can have the P/N 044. 044's start with 40 mm intake valves.

Carburetor venturies: You can read the venturie size by looking straight down your right carb with the air cleaner lid off like on your photos. The numbers are molded into the top lip of each venturie which is halfway down the carb. Shine a flashlight down the carb throat. In this photo you can see the size 3x; the "x" is unfortunately not clear enough but could be a "6".

Typical numbers for Weber IDF are 28, 30, 32, 34. Venturie size, which measures the internal diameter of the narrowest part of the bore, are ideally sized a few mm smaller than the intake valve head's diameter.

Carb removal: Easiest to remove the entire assembly of the carb mounted to the intake manifold. This way you only have to remove the two nuts and washers at the base of the manifold. If you attempted to remove the carb from the manifold while leaving the manifold in the car, you have 4 nuts. And those front two are really tough to reach.

To get to the front nut on the manifold base, you need to first determine the socket size. Easy to do that by slipping a socket onto the rear mounting nut on the right manifold which is in plain sight. You can see the rear nut in this photo, which looks like a 13 mm wrench/socket size.

The nut for the front would be the same size. Then buy a cheap swivel-head socket in 1/4" drive size, 2 extensions which total approx. 16", and a short/stubby style 1/4" drive ratchet. What has worked well for me is to remove the air cleaner base so that I have more working room between the carb body, the firewall, and the front (firewall) side of the fan shroud. I stand next to the car and reach straight down into that area to first pull off the front spark plug's cable from the plug. That exposes the manifold mounting nut. Next, place the socket+extension into that area, but without the actual ratchet. Try to get the socket head onto the nut. Your socket extension will be nearly vertical. Finally, hold the top end of the socket extension with one hand and snap the 1/4" ratchet onto the extension. With the tool now in place, loosen but don't remove the nut.

Take the ratchet + socket+extension out of the engine compartment. Reach back down with your hand and try to spin the nut off the manifold/head stud. Pull your hand and arm up and place the nut into a container. Now there should be a lock washer still on the manifold base. Put your hand back down and remove it with your fingers. Or use an extended magnetic arm to get the washer off the stud. Place the washer into the same container. You don't want to pull the washer off in the same movement as the nut, because your fingers could cramp up or snag on the carb body, causing you to drop either fastener into the engine compartment...

Once you have the assembly off and out of the car, you can look at one of the bottom flanges of the carb. It will be marked/stamped either IDF 40 or IDF 44. You can also easily remove one of the idle jets and carefully check it for its size which is stamped in tiny numbers near the nozzle end. Typical numbers are 50, 55, 60.

Two carb linkage return springs per carb are usually too much. If the rest of the linkage and the carb throttle are well lubricated and there is no undue friction, a single return spring, even a "weak" one is usually sufficient.

[Rome]

Once you get to the point of having the carb+manifold out of the engine compartment, you can find lots of useful information in the Performance/Engines/Transmissions forum. Use the search function for specific topics and then submit a new thread for your questions if needed.

[spegr]

THANKYOU just what I needed....so helpful! I appreciate your help I found out they are EMPI carbs not Webers. I know the spark plug is 3/4" not 1/2" so I'll pull the valve cover off. So great too have helpful knowledge on this site!