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Type 3 Disc Brake questions
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bucky2001
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Joined: February 15, 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:19 am    Post subject: Type 3 Disc Brake questions Reply with quote

I have a 71' square that i bought and the rotors are trashed. ince i need to replace those anyways might as well do the calipers too right? thought so. My question to you guys is, will the 66-74 ghia disc brake kit with the new spindles work on the car? or are the spindles totally a different beast? I have yet to find stock spindles/knuckle assemblies for the type 3. maybe not looking in the right areas though too:) i need the help of all you masters of the type 3's. it was produced in july of 71' also. i know that maters too!!!
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a complete 72 I'm parting out. PM me for prices.
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ghia spindles will not work on a T-3. Different animal. You can buy rotors and calipers for your T-3, but the new ones you buy will have smaller pistons. 40mm verses 42mm.
If your calipers are OK, use them. If they need rebuilt, send them to Jim Adney in Madison, WI. I think he gets $50 each for a rebuild.
71 was the last year for the smaller disc brakes. In 72, they went to the T-4/914 brakes. To put those on, you would have to change the spindles too, as the caliper mounts are bigger.
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bucky2001
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

see i keep getting told that after feb 71 the brakes are different on the squares. im trying to see whats different. cant be the rotor bolt pattern cuz my bug wheels bolt right up. i heard something about the caliper mounts being a lil larger in the spread of the bolt. I have no clue.
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COFBack
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim did my calipers, they came back in great condition and work like a champ.

I would recommend pulling your master and rear cylinders at the same time, beg Jim to give you a discount.

Also, pull you soft lines front and rear, either replace them or take them to a local hose maker and have them replicated with quality hose (my guy used the existing fittings and ss braided hose).

Take your rotors and drums to a machine shop and see if you can have them turned (good luck). If you buy new rotors/drums have them trued before you install them. Ask me why.

The reason I recommend doing all of this at once is to keep you from finding the weakest link in your brake system at one month intervals (which is what I did)

Good luck
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bucky2001
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have everything to redo the brakes besides the rotors for up front. still have the calipers and new cyls for the rear. pads, shoes, all rubber lines, calip rebuild kit. wheel bearings. just thought the rotors would be good, maybe need turned. new ones now. and why did you turn your new ones?
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COFBack
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First time I did the brakes (pads, rotors, drums, shoes, wheel cylinders)and wheel bearings (front only).

I put the new stuff on out of the box. When you braked with any pressure the car shook like a bitch. Turns out the rotors and drums were out of round. Brazillian parts BTW.

It's worth the 10 bucks to have a machine shop at least check them.
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Dfasty
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

he has a july car. his stuff has the late calipers with the bigger pads. and different bearings
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