Syncro Driveshaft U-Joint replacement Question

[damagd]

Need to replace my U-joints on my driveshaft. Was getting a lot of vibration over 35mph. Pulled the driveshaft and one of the u-joints had a very rough spot. Not finding a whole lot of info on just replacing the joints rather than a whole new driveshaft for $500+. Will these fit? From everything I can find, I think they will. Would like to order and have a local shop do the work.

https://www.finditparts.com/products/410893/neapco...d_item_id={feed_item_id}&utm_extension_id={extension_id}&utm_location_interst=&utm_location_physical=9006781&utm_product_id=410893&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4Y-sBhC6ARIsAGXF1g7ypgmGhePDIfuEd66vu2lHbfWY_ec8KEY13_vTAXUqQ0ZTwkdojsUaAlfHEALw_wcB

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/26111106113

It's a 1989 Syncro Doka imported from Germany. I can get the numbers off of the driveshaft once it stops raining if that's necessary to ensure fitment.

[Sodo]

Some folks have a lot of trouble “getting balance” after changing the u-joints.

Theres a brass bushing in there behind the Giubo that gets ruined when un-maintained or by driving un-balanced, or both.
Take it apart and inspect. I don’t know if its repairable, how would you change the brass bushing? I think it needs a zerk mod (which may not be easy….!)

The Giubo (jew-bo) donut seems to last a long time.
To disassemble and reassemble get a large hose clamp to put around it. Ive also used large channel-lock pliers to squeeze it, to align the bolts into their threaded holes.

I re-greased mine (180k miles) before they went bad.
And have re-greased twice since.
Currently at 230k all is still quiet /smooth and of course….fingers are crossed too.
See: Syncro - Needle grease original driveshaft u-joints

It possible that those cups have to be “centered” in the yokes.
Then retained “at center” with shims or JBWeld.
I’ve never tried it, this is just a hunch because Ive seen some Syncro u-joint cups with shims under the clips.
If the cups let “the cross” go off-center - then of course it will vibrate.
I don’t know how to do this because Ive never done it, nor read about anyone else doing it.
If you follow me down this rabbit hole you may never emerge.
But when its my tur to do so, of course Ill dig into it.

If I ever had to replace u-joints I’d cross-drill (the cross) and drill a 3/32 hole into center to needle-grease it. Probably not using a zerk, just a small hole that you jam a tapered needle into.
_________________


'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, SyncroShop pressure-oiled pinion-bearing & GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox.
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[MarkWard]

Do you have a driveshaft specialty shop in your area?

[damagd]

[ragnarhairybreeks]

Hi

There are a few threads here on samba about joint replacement and balancing and alignment.

There’s also a good how to on the German IG 16
Wiki

Here’s link to translated page

https://www-t3--pedia-de.translate.goog/index.php?...r_pto=wapp


Cheers

Alistair
_________________
'86 7 passenger syncro, converted to westy pop top, project still in progress
'82 westy, diesel converted to gas in '94, now gone...
https://shufti.blog/
Old address still works...
http://shufti.wordpress.com

[MarkWard]

A drive shaft shop could change them out, check the run out and balance it. Might be worth investigating vs doing it yourself and chasing a vibration after the fact. I can replace u joints, but it’s not one of my favorite jobs.

[csebern]

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9981935&highlight=#9981935

"I recommend you use JRL Machine in Petaluma, CA. Rob (the owner) and I figured out that the new replacement u-joints aren’t exactly the same dimensions as the ones that Volkswagen used originally. Either the center portion is too small or the cups are too big. This causes the joints to have radial play when installed, the joint then spins off axis which causes vibration. Rob can correct this. Also, a special locating fixture is required when balancing the VW T3 Syncro driveshaft. Most shops do not have this, Rob does. He rebuilt my driveshaft and it is 100% vibration free. Make sure you provide the guibo joint and the hardware as it needs be installed when the driveshaft is balanced. Rob is an engineer, does excellent work and his prices are very reasonable. I’ve been doing business with him for several years now. The Buslab in Berkeley (also awesome) has the u-joints and guibo joint. Rob may be able to get them as well."

Obviously CA is a long way from PA so whatever you do make sure that the shop you use is aware of the above information and has the specific tools needed to balance a VW T3 Syncro driveshaft.
_________________
Get a Volkswagen they said. It'll be fun they said.

[damagd]

Thanks for the replies. I'm assuming that those u-joints would work since nobody told me that they wouldn't. Sounds like it could be a tricky job though. I talked to a local driveshaft shop and they can do the work, but quoted me $300 on the high end, with me providing the parts. Parts would run me about $100, so would I be better off just getting this and installing? https://driveshaftstore.com/VW-Vanagon_Syncro-Driveshaft-1989-143610
Go Westy sells a driveshaft for $500, but they are out of stock.

[MarkWard]

Did not mean to scare you off. If you personally rebuild yours, a local shop, or the shop you linked. They will likley all get you down the road. The possible symptom that comes up often is driveshaft vibration. The online store is likely going to be on no help, but I have no experience with them. A syncro specific vendor has more meat in the game and would be more likely to stand behind or work with you getting rid of a vibration. I see Van Cafe has driveshafts in stock and it's likely GW or Van Cafe are not fabricating their own but subbing them out. Burley's website was too slow to load for me to search.

[Sodo]

They say "balanced at 3500RPM" which is significant.
Vanagon with it's 27-29" wheels and 4.86 gearing is a high speed driveshaft.
3500rpm might be 65 mph, but need the specs of your van to be sure.

VW shafts have trouble at 40-45 mph, which might be 2500RPM.
I don't know what speed slip-yoke shafts (if a problem) vibrate at.

I would say..... buy it.
$410, free shipping and claim 100% guaranteed.

They list a telephone number.
Us old fellas would just call and talk to someone.
_________________


'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, SyncroShop pressure-oiled pinion-bearing & GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox.
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[ragnarhairybreeks]

I’ll add another free opinion…

I had a driveshaft that couldn’t be balanced. The shop doing work is trusted. The reason given was the ears, that hold the cups for the u joints, were distorted. I don’t know if that meant the bores for the cups were wallowed or the geometry of the ears was out. I didn’t bother to measure, I had another shaft.

I tell you this just to add more doubt about keeping the old shaft, sorry.

Getting a new shaft with a guarantee seems like a good thing. Keeping your old shaft for later examination and rebuild is a good thing too


Cheers

Alistair
_________________
'86 7 passenger syncro, converted to westy pop top, project still in progress
'82 westy, diesel converted to gas in '94, now gone...
https://shufti.blog/
Old address still works...
http://shufti.wordpress.com

[Sodo]

Maybe take apart the Giubo and inspect the brass bearings and if they are in good condition.... definitely don't throw it away.

But if the Giubo bearing is trashed, maybe some other hardhead Syncro feller may wants it for the one good OEM U-joint.

Kittens die when you discard syncro parts.
_________________


'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, SyncroShop pressure-oiled pinion-bearing & GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox.
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[ragnarhairybreeks]

Tom I replaced guibo bearing . But was a pain

https://shufti.blog/2012/06/06/vanagon-making-new-syncro-propshaft-internal-bushings-part-one/

And I don’t think the internal bearing is the same with all shafts But I dunno..

You have to cut the joint end off to be sure. Then weld up.

Alistair
_________________
'86 7 passenger syncro, converted to westy pop top, project still in progress
'82 westy, diesel converted to gas in '94, now gone...
https://shufti.blog/
Old address still works...
http://shufti.wordpress.com

[damagd]

So, I'm leaning towards just buying the $410 one that I linked and keeping the old one. Maybe rebuild it in the future. This is a 1989 Syncro Doka with 28" wheels with 225/75 16 tires. Pretty sure that the transmission gearing is stock. Don't think that they upgraded or changed the gearing when they increased the wheel size.

[MarkWard]

[damagd]

[damagd]

I did find the Go Westy version virtually brand new on ebay for $325 plus shipping. Not sure if anyone has any experience with this one vs the telescopic one that I linked earlier. Of course, buying on ebay won't come with the 12 month guarantee that would come with the telescopic one from WholesaleImportParts.com

[Sodo]

On a Syncro, a silent driveshaft is like gold.
You don't wanna even unbolt it if you don't have to.
And then you mark the holes and put it back in the same place, etc.
It becomes ritualistic.

Wonder why it's for sale?

Anyway, I think a lot of people are looking forward to your review of the $410 unit.
And your review of their warranty (if it has any problems).
_________________


'90 Westy EJ25, NEW oil rings (!) 2Peloquins, 3knobs, SyncroShop pressure-oiled pinion-bearing & GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox.
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered original gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[damagd]

Ok, good point. I'll order the $410 driveshaft. One thing I do need to do however is make sure that the rest of the frame is tight before I can give it an honest review. I know that I need to replace the upper control arm bushings on the drivers side. They're shot. I do know that the driveshaft needs either replaced or rebuilt though because when I removed it, there was a definite rough spot/hitch in the rear u-joint.

[damagd]

UPDATE: New Driveshaft is in. Went in perfectly. Also replaced both Upper Control arm bushings as well and then tried to get my local VW mechanic to do an alignment. Had an appt on their books for a couple of weeks, dropped it off and then get a call from them telling me they can't do it because they don't have the specs for a Syncro, let alone a Doka. And also that both lower ball joints have a little play. Whatever, so I picked it up and have been driving it around minimally until I can get it properly aligned. But the vibration at speeds over 30mph is GONE. Had it on the highway for a couple of miles also. I will give this driveshaft an A+ review so far. Will be back if issues pop up with it.....

Also....a snapshot into my life....So i replaced the driveshaft last week and a couple of days later the driveshaft broken on my wife's 2010 Jeep Commander. I KID YOU NOT. Rear u-joint snapped and it dropped to the ground while she was driving.

I also have a Westy with a mysterious oil leak. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=785299&highlight=

And a tin top that's running poorly.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=776081&highlight=