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Introducing Caster
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Chris_nl
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Joined: September 17, 2003
Posts: 70
Location: The Netherlands
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 1:31 am    Post subject: Introducing Caster Reply with quote

Hi,

In the search for more relaxing driving I am interested in the option of introducing some caster to my front beam. My steering components do not have slop, but I do need to keep both hands firmly on the wheel at all times, and when windy it can wander. I am aware that steering will become heavier, so I am only looking at a small amount (1-2degrees?). I have a standard beam setup (height/width).

Does anyone have any experience of doing this? Are there any manuals/technical info on this (I understand it is possible to elongate the mounting holes)?

Thanks in advance,

Chris
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bus guy
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 3:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Chris,
Try doing a search of the forums, this has been covered many times. I used to make narrowed beams with 7 degrees caster and this used to be very nice on lowered buses with drop spindles.
A completely stock bus that has had the front and rear alignment set should go down the road well anyway, as long as all the steering components are in good shape.
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Chris_nl
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 4:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

Thanks for the reply. I have searched on this, but have not found info on the best way to achieve it. Some references to elongating the mounting holes, but anyone with specific experience on doing this (or more importantly how not to do it) would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Chris
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Riff Raff
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Joined: October 25, 2004
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I elongated the holes on 3 of the four beam bolt holes on each side.
I kept the upper rear holes original on both sides. The rest of the beam pivots from that point.
I used a string line from the stationary hole and traced with a marker the arc that other holes would need to be cut to.
I elongated each hole about 5 mm (less on the top hole as it has less travel)
I don't know what this gives me for degrees of over caster, but my bus is much more pleasant to drive with the positive self centering of the wheel.
The steering is a little heavier, but not a big deal.

I think the reason there was little to no caster built in to the bus beams in the first place is because buses were designed to haul heavy loads and the steering could have got tiresomely heavy for delivery drivers (and soccer moms) back in the day.
I never regularly haul a ton of weight in my bus, so I happily trade the positive self centering afforded by over caster for slightly heavier steering.
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chrisflstf
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need a point of reference before you do anything. Take it to a shop and get an alignment. They should give you a printout. Otherwise its just a seat of the pants test

There is a little slop in the holes, you can use that to your advantage, depending on how tight a fit the beam is to the frame. It may not move easily
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you checked the tow in??
With the proper tires you should be able to get the blown side to side factor down to a minimum.
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Chris_nl
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks,

Perhaps wander was not the correct term, but I do feel like I am constantly making small corrections on the straight. When I do correct it does not feel as though there is play in the steering.

Riff Raff, did the caster adjustment help the bus hold a straight line better? Also, was the 5mm adjustment about right now that you have driven it?

Thanks again for any input.

Cheers,

Chris
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Riff Raff
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Joined: October 25, 2004
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2011 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris_nl wrote:


did the caster adjustment help the bus hold a straight line better?

Yes, there was a noticable improvement

Chris_nl wrote:
Also, was the 5mm adjustment about right now that you have driven it?


I haven't tried it at any other point, but I have no intention of altering the caster now as I like it where it is.

The nice thing about this alteration is that with the holes elongated, you can run the factory caster (0* to 1*), all the way up to ~4* which is what I think I have.
The beam bolts and washers hold the beam securely, so you can run the amount of caster that feels best. No down side as far as I'm concerned.
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