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1776 vs. 1600dp in my '71
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ccpalmer
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 3:36 am    Post subject: 1776 vs. 1600dp in my '71 Reply with quote

Well, 2mm of endplay is just too much... so it's time for a new engine. I'm debating between a bone stock 1600dp and a 1776. I'd still run the 1776 stock (carb, dizzy, exhaust)

I'm wondering if anyone out there has a 'stock' 1776 running in a '71 and if so... what kind of mileage you get and how the temps are on the highway. I like the idea of a bit more power but don't want to sacrifice too much.

I'm looking at a Brothers Machine Shop longblock - anyone out there have experience with them?

Thanks so much -
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 3:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A good engine balance and a counterweighted crank are required to make you a happy boy.
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Jody '71
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You pose an interesting question regarding increasing the displacement to 1776 and keeping the rest of the engine stock for a '71 Bus. There are many things to consider, and maybe the rest of the Type 1 Engine people will reply.

Like, re-jetting the 34-3 for the larger displacement using the original dual port intake as opposed to dual carbs. Rob and Dave's webpage addresses this issue.

And, will stock exhaust work with the larger CC's, or will you have to go with a header and a suitable muffler?

I would think that if you're gonna keep your new engine stock, then keep it as a 1600DP if you're not going to change your fuel delivery and all the pertinent stuff regarding the engine, although the the balanced and weighted considerations will produce longer engine life despite what size engine you build.
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rsorak
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will say much of the benefit of the larger engine is being wasted if you refuse to goto dual carbs and a header.....
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moxnix
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ran a stock 1776 for 6 years - any advantage was negligible.

Spend your money on optimizing a 1600 instead.
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Adventurewagen
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rsorak is right. Don't go with the 1776 unless you rejet the stock carb or go with duals.

I run a 1776 with dual webers in my 71 right now. I ran with a 1641 for 30k+ miles before it died and all I can say is the 1776 was a HUGE improvement. I'm not sure what Moxnix was running that made the size difference negligable but I run a heavy camper conversion with a high top so maybe I notice a difference because of the weight.

My old 68 with a stock 1.6 SP had lots of kick so maybe it's a weight thing. Either way I'm very happy having gone with the slightly bigger displacment but I question how much you'll take advantage of it without at a minimum jetting the old carb bigger.
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tom62
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm running a 1776 with a rejetted carb stock exhaust and a (GASP!!) 009 dist. with a piertronix ign
HUGE difference over the tired old single port that was in the single cab before.
Well worth the effort in my opinion.
duals and a header would make more hp but not sure if it would help much with torque.
Will run 70 for hours and will even climb hills in 4th gear!
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ccpalmer
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a consensus. My gut feeling was that 1600 was the way to go - and I'm a stock kind of guy so that was my first choice.

I have a feeling that after driving a number of tired, old engines that a new 1600dp will feel plenty powerful to me. Heck, my current tired 1600dp feels super strong to me. But leaking oil out the front seal all the time is not OK!


Thanks -
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Jody '71
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buyer/Seller Feedback Forum shows nothing but praise for Brothers Machine, but there are only less than a dozen posts, some most recently this year. They are in Ontario CA.
Viewing their website, they do not show exact prices for a 1600 long block, I imagine they price these based on what you want them to build for you. I would at least begin with a new universal case that has the bosses for the rear engine mount. A nice addition would be the full flow option with the Berg oil pump cover and AN fittings and using steel braided teflon lines as opposed to barbed connections with rubber hoses. But then again, that's not stock.
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