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saw2 Samba Member
Joined: November 06, 2008 Posts: 321 Location: nw Oregon
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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 9:27 am Post subject: Break in oil duration |
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Hey,
Just done cam break in on rebuilt engine according to Engle instructions using Brad Penn 30 wt. break in oil. Now for oil and filter change. Should I use B Penn 30wt break in oil again or go right to 10-30 wt regular B Penn which will be whats normally used? Plan on changing again at 300 miles.
Thanks. Saw2 |
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mark tucker Samba Member

Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23947 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 9:39 am Post subject: |
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I do 1 oil &filter change after 30-40 min.then another after about 1 hour more, let cool over night, check valve adjustment&flog it good.change oil&filter again that night. and in about a week change oil & filter to synthetic oil. I dont use "break" in oil , just mollycam lube mixed with synthetic gear lube&the red stuff engle has with it.I use cam shield molly now.& thier zinc addtive now also for break in. havent had any issues beore or after using it..you shouldnt need the break in oil after breakin, if you want you can split it for the first change. 1 reason for not using it is the zinc causes carbon buildup.when crane cams was selling it the bottle had a warning not to use execpt for breakin due to the carbon /zinc buildup in the chambers&piston rings.( I think thats the reason it went away in the first place)
oil is cheep motors arnt.I use the cheepest oil I can(name brand) for breakin,as it is mostly for flushing the particulate out and into the filter, thus the reason for changing so offten on new motor.if you cant afford the oil just change the filter a few times(just about any cheep filter will do to catch the stuff in a short time)dont run filter too long as the bypass will open and all the unfiltered oil will go to your bearings.(molly does and will clog the filter in a very short time causing the filter bypass to open)good luck with your new motor.have fun& dont get cought |
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yamaducci Samba Member

Joined: March 30, 2010 Posts: 2373 Location: Mount Airy, Maryland
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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 9:55 am Post subject: |
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Yeah your done with break in oil Go to Penn Grade 1 if you are sticking with BradPenn. Always use a higher zinc oil designed for older flat tappet cams. If it says street legal do not use it. It won't have enough ZDDP. Changing on Marks schedule works fine too just make sure the engine is cold over night to adjust valves. Then run it up a tall hill a few times under load and a little off and on the throttle letting the engine "Brake" you when you let off.
The rings will be seated shorty. _________________ -John Cox
My 2498 Turbo Re-Build Thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5578697#5578697
3rd Brake Light Safety Stars- I still have a couple with blue light left. Email me if interested. |
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DarthWeber Samba Member

Joined: November 24, 2007 Posts: 7543 Location: Whittier,CA
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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:06 am Post subject: |
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X2 on switching to "regular" Brad Penn. Penn Grade 1 0W-30 should be fine if you are in the USA where it's winter time. _________________
Mitey62 wrote: |
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on. |
RockCrusher wrote: |
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum.  |
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mark tucker Samba Member

Joined: April 08, 2009 Posts: 23947 Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:19 am Post subject: |
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darth that must be a small sump there just to hold 1 0w-30. be carful there dont over fill it!! yes Im messen with ya. |
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DarthWeber Samba Member

Joined: November 24, 2007 Posts: 7543 Location: Whittier,CA
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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:30 am Post subject: |
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DarthWeber wrote: |
Penn Grade 1 dram of 0W-30 should be fine |
Fixed it for ya Mark.  _________________
Mitey62 wrote: |
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on. |
RockCrusher wrote: |
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum.  |
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jtwaller Samba Member

Joined: January 30, 2012 Posts: 345 Location: HIDEAWAY, TX
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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 12:30 pm Post subject: |
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I love how Mark has time tables like "week" instead of miles. I drive mine 600 miles a week. I guess my time table is a half week on "break in" oil. Git'er dun, Mark! _________________ 1967 Daily Driver
..[-_-_-_-]..
*/l_____l\*
( O \ ! / O )
1973 Thing
1969 Squareback
1967 Bug
1968 Bug
1971 Bug
mark tucker wrote: |
the more you stroke it the better it feals.bore it out while your there, you will like it if you do it corectly. watch out for the ones that are used and abused, they can be headaches.well all of them can be headaches. |
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