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alignment trial
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bipolaroller
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 10:42 pm    Post subject: alignment trial Reply with quote

i just replaced my front beam to a narrower one.ive read some info on different methods of aligning,but im haveing a hard time understanding how you guys do it running string lines and stuff.do the lines run off of the chassis parallel to its center frnt to rear,or just lines parellel to each other close as possible to chassis parallels??my idea was, set my steering box on center and square off the front beam and align the tires that way.in theory the tires should be 90 degrees of the beam.anyone tried this?see any pros or cons??it will get a proper alignment down at my local shop,but u guys think this will be close enough to get it 9 miles into town?
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hsosa1
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good topic. always wondered how the slammed crowd align there rides.
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ladybug89
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=259397&highlight=caster+shims

you do need the front of the tires to have alittle toe-in, so your 90degree idea might not work that well
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drscope
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 5:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've heard of some of the low cars not being able to get onto the alignment rack. You may need to find a shop that has a pit type rack and not an elevated one.

But if you use the string and you are careful, you can get it dead nuts on and you won't have to take it anywhere else.
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bipolaroller
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 12:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

drscope wrote:
I've heard of some of the low cars not being able to get onto the alignment rack. You may need to find a shop that has a pit type rack and not an elevated one.

But if you use the string and you are careful, you can get it dead nuts on and you won't have to take it anywhere else.


mines air ride but thats a good point.between my square method and the strings shes dead on.took me a good day of tinkering but its pretty good now..drove nice.squaring off the beam gave me points in the front and rear of the tires to measure from just about the center of the wheels.i gave it a 1/8 toe in at the front,both tires.then used the string method linked above and at 15 ft or so they appear to be straight enough for the girls i go with.thanks for the help guys

tools useing the square method:
got them at my local ace hardware
1-$5 aluminum level
2-$5 framing stair squares
method:
clamp the level to the front of beam at the lower tube resting the level on the lower portion of shock tower.you should now have a straight true line to square off of.now the levels are like small i beams so slip the squares into the channel til the ends are about an inch from the tires.then clamp to the level.you now have a good 90 degree angle off the front beam.the squares give you points where you can get good front and rear measurments of the tire giving them the 1/8 toe in.then i followed up with the string method and it looked great.in my case squaring off the beam worked but i recomend checking it with strings.
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SlowSeventy
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What up Wakeem!

How much caster/camber/general alignment change is there from sittin on the bumpstops to bags fully inflated?

What ride hieght do you have it aligned at?

I will call 158th tomorrow and see if Russ is still around, he would be the dude you would want to do it. He knows when to put 'the book' down and set it like you want it. I will let you know.

ltr
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bipolaroller
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SlowSeventy wrote:
What up Wakeem!

How much caster/camber/general alignment change is there from sittin on the bumpstops to bags fully inflated?

What ride hieght do you have it aligned at?

I will call 158th tomorrow and see if Russ is still around, he would be the dude you would want to do it. He knows when to put 'the book' down and set it like you want it. I will let you know.

ltr


yeah,do that....the air has 12 travel.i set my ride height with about 3"clearance.so from lay'n pan to 3" if it does differ its small..but if it goes full up then yes it makes a diffrence.they tweek out in front alittle at full up.but i aligned at the ride height i wanted..i just got my temps set and the guy told me my rods where in the mail...im gunna run these temps til the snow though.
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glandnut
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two yard sticks works for me (front).
I roll it up on the rhino ramps so I have room to slide under and adjust the tie rods. Roll it off and back on to double check. I end up using the inside of the rims to square the ends of the yardsticks instead of the inner wall of the tires.
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Mark
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glandnut wrote:
Two yard sticks works for me (front).
I roll it up on the rhino ramps so I have room to slide under and adjust the tie rods. Roll it off and back on to double check. I end up using the inside of the rims to square the ends of the yardsticks instead of the inner wall of the tires.


Ditto.
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FireBug1966
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd love it if someone was energetic enough to do a youtube video of the various DIY alignment methods.
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lownslo
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use wodden dowels from the hardware store, put the car on ramps, tape the dowls to the wheels, measure at the base of tires, between the dowls ,and at the ends, between thedowels. You want an 1/8 of toe in roughly, so you want your measurement at the end of the dowles to be 1/8 less than at the tires.

Its not totally accurate, but works if your too low to get it on a rack.
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Eurobug
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 2:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use one long 2x2, the width of the car, with wood paneling attached to each end about the width of the tires and as tall as about halfway up the tires. I make a mark on both pieces of paneling next to a fixed spot on the rear of each tire. Then I move my contraption to the front of the tires and see where the marks are. I adjust accordingly. It's very easy actually, no strings no jack stands, no measureing tapes and no ramps. And it's all a one man opperation, I just have to go back and forth from each side of the car. I keep putting the contraption on the front and back of the tires until the marks are about 1/8 inch smaller on the front
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doubledoor64
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use one of these Wink


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Eurobug
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what I was talking about two posts earlier. This is Version 1.0. Version 2.0 will have the two end sections a little taller so they go further up the tire, to make the measurements more precise.

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Sid Vicious
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used the stretched string method and gotten pretty close. I have a little vibration at speed and that's why I'm asking this question:

If you have 1/8" difference front to back, how far should the end of the strings be from each other 10 feet in front of the car? That's a math equation I can't work out in my head...

This would depend on how wide your beam is, wheel offset, etc, but is there a simple equation you can just plug 'X' into, if 'X' is the distance from spindle end to spindle end?
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Joey
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eurobug wrote:
This is what I was talking about two posts earlier. This is Version 1.0. Version 2.0 will have the two end sections a little taller so they go further up the tire, to make the measurements more precise.

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Very good idea! Applause

The only thing I would change would be the height where the measurements are done, might be more accurate.
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Eurobug
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
This is Version 1.0. Version 2.0 will have the two end sections a little taller so they go further up the tire, to make the measurements more precise.
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Joey
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 2:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

d'oh! Embarassed

I was distracted by the nice pictures... Razz
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Eurobug
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries, I'm not sure how high I want to make it though. If I go too high it will be very difficult to see the markings when it is placed on the rear of the tires.
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Joey
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You figure it out and let us know. Wink
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