Accelerator Brake Pedal and sticky throttle cable problems

coyotewarrior · Samba Member Joined: November 25, 2005 Posts: 42

July 1969 Westy
I read through all the previous post on this subject and still have some questions.

Is my spring broken? Does this spring actually provide pressure to push your pedal back up? Or is all the return provided by the spring on the carburetor?

I also have this a few other things on my floor that may be PO hacks.

here are pics.
In the first one I figured out I'm missing the retaining spring that holds the rod to the pedal, that I will order and replace.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This second pic is where I suspect the PO did some crazy brake light switch rigging I fixed the wiring in a previous post, but want to know what is supposed to go in the holes where this switch is. And what is that little white plastic thing coming through the floor as well?

This third pic shows the hole for the gas pedal stop, does any make these yet? I saw Busok made them, but think they are not selling these any more.

And the last picture is of the hing under the gas pedal. Trying to figure out if the little metal tab is broken or if that is the correct size? It doesn't seem to do anything. Perhaps it just keeps the pin from sliding out? But I can't seem to get the pin out anyways. Does the pedal also have a spring that sells at Bus Depot?

The whole reason I even have these questions is because, i just put dual empi carbs and my throttle cable is sticking. I had this problem before when ever I put the throttle cable guide tube all the way through the fan shroud, when I didn't push it all the way through the throttle cable moved more freely. Any suggestions on how to get cable to move more freely so my carbs will return to closed position fully.

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52300

And???

aeromech · Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 9:07 am Post subject:

Little bit-o-lube and it will be fine
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curtis4085 · Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 9:36 pm Post subject:

Those two holes are for the accelerator pedal stop
http://m.ebay.com/itm/VW-Bay-Window-Bus-Accelerato...1074330371

I would service the pedal assembly and check the pedal linkage as well. Worn rust parts is your problem. You may also be able to get a stronger return spring for your carbs
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udidwht · Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 5:32 pm Post subject:

scrivyscriv · Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 6:43 am Post subject:

Wolfsburg west has a complete package to fix all of that.. Might as well take the time and replace the worn parts. You can replace everything from the pedal back to the throttle linkage for around $30 or less.. The pedal pin looks pretty crusty.
The pedal return spring looks the right size, it's just not in the right spot.
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udidwht · Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 8:23 am Post subject:

Toss in one of these...it's the bees knees in terms of accelerator pedal. Last one you'll ever buy.

http://www.buttysbits.com/throttle-kits.html
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coyotewarrior · Samba Member Joined: November 25, 2005 Posts: 42

Yeah guys I saw the one from WW. My is working, but pretty crusty, so it would good to replace the linkages underneath to prevent it breaking while i'm in the middle of a road trip or something. I will look into.

I still need to get the pin out and as someone mentioned it looks like the spring is in their but just in the wrong position? Does that mean it needs to be pulled out further, because it's too short?

The big issue for me right now is the drag on the throttle cable itself. it won't allow my dual carbs to return to closed position. It's worse when I put the throttle tube in fully, but works better when I take out the tube. but I know that is not proper.

Any suggestions?

thanks samba community.

abel

rockerarm · Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 3:35 pm Post subject:

The safety aspect of not having a throttle return when one doesn't expect it is a safety concern. I also purchased the WW pedal kit. Normally the pedal up front never had a spring to assist in its return but one cant hurt if engineered right. You are gonna need to go over the entire system, pedal assy, cable thru the metal tube as well as the flexible sheath, and finally the carbs linkage on the engine. These "sub assy's" can be isolated and rebuilt/repaired/improved as necessary.
I do like those parts from buttybits. People go to lengths to get dual carb linkage to perform but not the parts required to pull it.


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