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Vw1600dellortoGR
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 11:29 am    Post subject: Engine build Reply with quote

Hello everybody i am sort for creating so many topics but i am confused on what should i do to have a descent engine, i have sent the case to be align bored and now i am thinking about the rest, firstly i have a set of pistons and cylinders with 3.000kms on them so i will be using them, the cylinder heads were also reconditioned with new valves and valve guides but i would like to fit twin carbs and i am not sure about the cam and the rest parts i should fit, i have heard that a counterweighted crank is a good investment for an engine i would like to have a long life
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jfats808
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the piston and cylinders are in good shape, keep the engine as simple as you can. Cb cheater cam found on cbperdormance.com or engle W100 will work fine with small dual carbs. You'll need new lifters and I think cb bigfoot lifters should fit the bill. You'll need to get a cam gear or drill the rivets out of the stock cam gear and have a machinist counter sink cut the holes. Maybe a cam kit is a better idea. They include valve springs, keepers, retainers, cam and lifters. I would suggest highly that you stay stock bore and stock stroke, since it sounds like you have limited experience. For this engine a counter weighted crank is a good idea, but not as important as balanced internals. I normally recommend a cw crank for any build, bit for this one I think you'll be fine to reuse the stock crank. If this is not a primary means of transportation, I suggest u do more reading and researching before jumping head first.
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Rockstar Suzuki wrote:

You might as well put 10 year build in your bullshit sig, as it will NEVER run. Also your a dick

You can always learn something new, even from a fool.
Check your oil levels routinely!
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Vw1600dellortoGR
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine in the car was my first build , the car is a daily driver and does a lot o miles, on the highway so a long lasting engine would be nice
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Vw1600dellortoGR
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the rest of the valvetrain going to be ok i mean the stock valves .... do you think the scat c25 cam kit is ok for the job? it has heavy duty everything together but i saw in a post that heavy-duty is not enough ant Chromoly is what i need is this true?
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jfats808
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

C25, very mild cam: ok
Single HD springs
Chromoly retainers and keepers = good idea
Stock alum pushrods=ok
HD shaft with 1.1s = safe precaution, don't like the wavy washers on stock rockers. Personally I would change out the solid tips and go with Scat ball feet. Remember to soak overnight in oil. Be prepared to have/or get shims on hand JIC, for geometry.
Stock size valves= ok, however I would suggest a fluff and buff porting
Scat cam is safe with their matching scat billet non hole lifters.

*Additional suggestion is when checking dh, you could flycut the cylinder seating base to gain cr and a little more power. I would stay below 8.5. Full flowing is always a good mod to filter oil. 1.5 sump with more oil capacity is also a good idea but not required. Depends on your budget.
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2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD


Rockstar Suzuki wrote:

You might as well put 10 year build in your bullshit sig, as it will NEVER run. Also your a dick

You can always learn something new, even from a fool.
Check your oil levels routinely!
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Vw1600dellortoGR
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do i need a cw crank for this build??
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Bodacious
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Joined: October 01, 2015
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nikas panayotis wrote:
Do i need a cw crank for this build??

That depends on how many rpm's you are going to turn the engine. If your going to stay modest and not dip over 5500 a lot than I would say no. The research I have done on the stock VW cranks is that they are very good forgings for normal rpm's. Counter balancing helps everything though. It helps you turn more rpm's freely, it extends bearing life and it makes for a smoother engine. If you can afford one then why not? But you don't have to have it.
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