brazing?

[enjoispammy8]

is brazing as good as welding for a battery tray?
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1969 Westy, 1690cc. montana red and cloud white.
1969 Standard Beetle [sold]
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[Wildthings]

Not as quick and easy as welding, but if done well it should work. Others probably will disagree.

Depending on the level of damage you have, you might consider using fiberglass on yours. Use multiple layers and do a careful job and you should have something that will last for decades. I like glass because it is quick and easy, doesn't burn your paint, and doesn't rust. Again others will disagree.

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

[enjoispammy8]

thanks for the answers. i plan on getting my front floors welded, but because the engine is in the way, i wont be getting the battery tray welded. but when i pull the engine over winter break, it looks like i will be brazing in a new tray!
_________________
1969 Westy, 1690cc. montana red and cloud white.
1969 Standard Beetle [sold]
Watch My Movies: https://www.youtube.com/user/taylorlikesacdc

[busdaddy]

Why braze and not weld when the engines out?
You have to be super careful to get ALL the flux off the joint or anything you put on it will bubble up. Shurely someone you know can get thier hands on a 110V pocket mig. Brazing creates alot of heat that can warp your corner to s**t too, be careful.
I'd weld if given the choice personally.
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[enjoispammy8]

im not sure if my welding friend can transport his equipment, but i will be sure to ask him.
_________________
1969 Westy, 1690cc. montana red and cloud white.
1969 Standard Beetle [sold]
Watch My Movies: https://www.youtube.com/user/taylorlikesacdc

[busdaddy]

Call your local rental outfit, I'd rather battle a gassless 110V MIG than cook my corner tacking in a battery tray.

Don't get me wrong, brazing has it's place and is great for some repairs, but the middle of large, flattish body panels isn't one of them.
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[enjoispammy8]

well i have no welding experience of any kind, but thanks for all the ideas.
_________________
1969 Westy, 1690cc. montana red and cloud white.
1969 Standard Beetle [sold]
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[donemoto]

If you don't have any experience you should not braze or gas weld. As others have said warpage will occur if not careful. Also the flame will burn out and away thin rusted renants of the metal. For something as easy as a batterry tray to replace; try getting a new one and po rivetting it in place then use seam sealer to waterproof.

If mig is used; try to get good penetration. Avoid big popcorn welds that hold only to the surface of the metal.

Your best bet may be to pop rivet it in; then, later, have someone tack it where the rivets were.
_________________
1975 Campmobile
1962 Bug Convertible
Homebuilt VW Trike
1966 HD Sprint H
1940 HD ULH Flathead
1985 Electra-glide Classic with Tour-Pac
1968 Harley Rapido

1968 Honda CL Scrambler 175cc
1962 Honda Cub 50 Step-thru
1980 Honda Cub 70

[rneithammer]

I agree with Busdaddy - get yourself a small MIG welder. That's what did when I put in my new battery tray, and did absolutely no damage to the exterior paint. My welder uses gas (C25) but I suppose gasless will work, too. MIG is easy to learn - easier than OXY or stick.

[Blaubus]

i have heard over and over again that brazing promotes rust.

with all the questions about brazing, it would be worthwhile to weld regardless of extra cost.

[alikatcraig]

If you can find a TIG inverter, then brazing is fine with silicon/bronze rod. It will give you a very strong joint that has better resistance to stress than mig, doesn't rust, and needs no flux. Brazing with gas is messy on a car and puts too much heat into the panel.

Best stick to mig. It can help to drill/punch 1/4" holes on battery tray raised edge and puddle the weld into this hole onto the rear panel. It will duplicate the factoty spot weld look. Just remember not to put too much heat into a small area to avoid distortion. A damp rag on the outside panel can help.

Al
_________________
1967 Ghia
1971 Deluxe Microbus
1974 Convertible Bug
1973 Standard Bug
1998 Mexican Bug

[dreamaker33]

Has anyone tried using a torch with silver sauder or something like that?
_________________
'71 bus

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

[Northstate Trev]

I think the biggest problem with braving or silver soldering a pan repair would be the level of cleanliness for the process. Your metal has to be shiny clean to get a proper job. With welding you can get away with a little rust, it will include in the weld, whereas the braze or solder will not bond and you'll have a void.
On sheet metal just keep low heat and a small tip.. 000... and be prepared to move fast
Good Luck
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66 Sunroof Sedan 1776 POWER(Daily Driven)
71 Bay Deluxe
72 Super Beetle Baja Champion SE
73 FI Squareback
59 Willys pick-up
38 Plymouth Coupe

[akscooter]

As others have said go mig or tig if you braze you will warp the panel, newer cars that are not older than the 60s will most likely warp, the bigger and flatter the panel the more chance of you warping it. if it was pre-60s or 50s and earlier, no problem. if you haven't welded..maybe consider fiberglassing.
_________________
1975 campmobile
1949 Ply Special Deluxe
1991 Custom 1200 HD Sportster XLH

[chazz79]

sears sells a flux core wire feed (gasless mig) for 130. If you have a harbour freight nearby you can get a simular unit for under a hundred bucks. You won't lay a pretty bead with either but for spotting in a panel it'll work fine. Buy one and practice, it'll be worth the investment in the long run.
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[busdaddy]

There's always body panel adhesive too, no heat or welding skills required.
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[enjoispammy8]

[busdaddy]

Any body shop supply should stock it, it's how the plastic door skins are attached on Saturns and the like. I wouldn't install rockers or anything structural on a body designed to be spot welded, but it'll hold up a battery tray just fine.
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