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1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle
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roymann
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2025 9:42 am    Post subject: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

Help! - Engine has less than 10,000 miles on it. New motor mounts were installed from Mid-America. To eliminate the bad motor mounts possibility, I fabricated a brace ( see pic) , bolted to the pass. side exhaust and frame - now shake is transferred to the whole car. Feels like a misfire to me. Here is a list of recent changes to try to correct the shake:


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Originally bought 1914cc long block from JCS Volks Machine - shook from day one at 1000 rpm idle.
9,500 miles later - Heads removed and sent to reputable shop for 3 angle valve grinding. Valves and springs replaced.
Generator replaced with 55amp alternator.
Checked firing order 1-4-3-2
Valve lash set at .004 push rods are steel and engine starts with one click of the key so there is no compression loss there. Originally set the lash at Zero - still shook.
Brand new Empi 40mm carbs installed - Re-jetted by A.J. Sims at Low Bugget. Fuel mixture screws reset.
NGK spark plugs replaced with new Bosch - gap at 25
Bosch Coil replaced with Petronix Flame Thrower 40K volts
New plug wires by Duralast- Each wire shows flash on timing light.
Loosened Dizzy - Tested advance and retard - set at 30-32 degrees at 3000 rpms. Still shakes at idle after re-set.
Installed Holly Fuel pressure regulator and gauge - Fuel pressure at 2 1/2lbs
Dizzy is 009 with Petronix electronic ignition.
Gas is fresh.
The only thing I did not replace yet is the dizzy. I'm at wits end here running out of ideas.
My original install shook at idle and still shakes after all these attempts. And I don't mean a little shake - it's visible.
What have I missed? Any suggestions?
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Last edited by roymann on Wed Mar 12, 2025 10:05 am; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2025 9:48 am    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

Your bracket is solid and transferring any engine vibration to the body. Why do you need those?
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2025 10:10 am    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
Your bracket is solid and transferring any engine vibration to the body. Why do you need those?

I installed it to eliminate the possibility of bad motor mounts even though they were brand new. The engine shook without them and now the brace just transferred the vibration to the whole car. I'll probably take it off if I can stop the shake.
Thanks for responding.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2025 10:14 am    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

Sort of sounds like your carbs aren't balanced and/or there's a plugged idle circuit or jet. One barrel out of sync will idle like a dead cylinder and shake a lot.

-Dan
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2025 10:56 am    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

Root_Werks wrote:
Sort of sounds like your carbs aren't balanced and/or there's a plugged idle circuit or jet. One barrel out of sync will idle like a dead cylinder and shake a lot.

-Dan


Sounds like carbs are not balanced or a stated above plugged idle circuit. Try pulling sparkplug wires one at a time to find the dead cylinder or cylinders. If one or more are dead check the idle circuit, wires, and plug for that cylinder. Either way running a solid mount like that which is “as you have done” is essentially from the body to the aluminum head which is a stress to the exhaust stud area of the heads.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2025 11:03 am    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

DerrickfromNC1 wrote:
Root_Werks wrote:
Sort of sounds like your carbs aren't balanced and/or there's a plugged idle circuit or jet. One barrel out of sync will idle like a dead cylinder and shake a lot.

-Dan


Sounds like carbs are not balanced or a stated above plugged idle circuit. Try pulling sparkplug wires one at a time to find the dead cylinder or cylinders. If one or more are dead check the idle circuit, wires, and plug for that cylinder. Either way running a solid mount like that which is “as you have done” is essentially from the body to the aluminum head which is a stress to the exhaust stud area of the heads.


Yes, I will be taking the brace off as it proved the shake was not due to bad motor mounts which have less than 10,000 miles on them. I will try removing plug wires one at a time. Thanks for responding.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2025 12:40 pm    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

roymann wrote:
DerrickfromNC1 wrote:
Root_Werks wrote:
Sort of sounds like your carbs aren't balanced and/or there's a plugged idle circuit or jet. One barrel out of sync will idle like a dead cylinder and shake a lot.

-Dan


Sounds like carbs are not balanced or a stated above plugged idle circuit. Try pulling sparkplug wires one at a time to find the dead cylinder or cylinders. If one or more are dead check the idle circuit, wires, and plug for that cylinder. Either way running a solid mount like that which is “as you have done” is essentially from the body to the aluminum head which is a stress to the exhaust stud area of the heads.


Yes, I will be taking the brace off as it proved the shake was not due to bad motor mounts which have less than 10,000 miles on them. I will try removing plug wires one at a time. Thanks for responding.


Yes….the rubber motor mounts are there to secure the motor and prevent the transmission of vibration into the body. Not to prevent a properly running engine from rocking.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2025 4:09 pm    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

"Shook from day one..." There's a good possibility you have a piston or rod installed backwards.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2025 7:41 pm    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

Known problem with the red urethane bushings to cause harshness - be it shift rod, transaxle mounts, or front beam.
If used.

A lumpy cam can do this also. - not sure of motor specs or if engine has always done this.

My half cent guess is on nosecone as suggested.


Best luck ... stay safe

jinx
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2025 9:34 pm    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

Your engine rocking if not something internally is diffinitely the “Kadron Rock”. I put a set of kadrons on a 2180 and it basically idles off of cylinders 1 and 3. It was explained to me that one cylinder was robbing the intake of the 2nd cylinder at idle. You have a 2 cylinder motor at idle. A friend of mine has a mild 1776 that has an acceptable idle and his motor has the balance tube connected. My 2180 would idle fairly smoothly at around 1300rpm and a balance tube made no difference either way.

Read these threads:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ght=kadron

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=760383&highlight=kadron
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2025 2:48 pm    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
Your bracket is solid and transferring any engine vibration to the body. Why do you need those?


Hey Glenn - Are you still in CT? Are you up for a road trip to Central New Jersey? I would pay you $1000.00 to come here and stop my engine from shaking at idle. Wanna talk on the phone? 732-575-3543
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2025 8:30 pm    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

Pull the plug wires one at a time and see if the missing can be narrowed down to a single hole. If you can find the dead hole, you can narrow it down. Might just be a plugged up idle jet. A shot of carb cleaner would tell you really quick!

Steel pushrods are set to loose zero, warmed engine. Stock are set to .006 stone cold. Where did you get .004” from?
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2025 3:54 am    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

VW_Jimbo wrote:
Pull the plug wires one at a time and see if the missing can be narrowed down to a single hole. If you can find the dead hole, you can narrow it down. Might just be a plugged up idle jet. A shot of carb cleaner would tell you really quick!

Steel pushrods are set to loose zero, warmed engine. Stock are set to .006 stone cold. Where did you get .004” from?


Steel pushrods are supposed to be set at zero lash. I initially set them at zero - engine still shook at idle, so, to eliminate the possibility of 'too tight" I set them at .004 - no difference - still shakes.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2025 8:37 am    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

roymann wrote:
VW_Jimbo wrote:
Pull the plug wires one at a time and see if the missing can be narrowed down to a single hole. If you can find the dead hole, you can narrow it down. Might just be a plugged up idle jet. A shot of carb cleaner would tell you really quick!

Steel pushrods are set to loose zero, warmed engine. Stock are set to .006 stone cold. Where did you get .004” from?


Steel pushrods are supposed to be set at zero lash. I initially set them at zero - engine still shook at idle, so, to eliminate the possibility of 'too tight" I set them at .004 - no difference - still shakes.


It is a “loose” zero. The push rods have to be able to roll with your fingers on a warm engine.

Did you do it like that?



What happened with the drop test?
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2025 9:29 am    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

VW_Jimbo wrote:
roymann wrote:
VW_Jimbo wrote:
Pull the plug wires one at a time and see if the missing can be narrowed down to a single hole. If you can find the dead hole, you can narrow it down. Might just be a plugged up idle jet. A shot of carb cleaner would tell you really quick!

Steel pushrods are set to loose zero, warmed engine. Stock are set to .006 stone cold. Where did you get .004” from?


Steel pushrods are supposed to be set at zero lash. I initially set them at zero - engine still shook at idle, so, to eliminate the possibility of 'too tight" I set them at .004 - no difference - still shakes.


It is a “loose” zero. The push rods have to be able to roll with your fingers on a warm engine.

Did you do it like that?
Yes



What happened with the drop test?

What do you mean 'drop test'? Compression?
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2025 9:35 am    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

I think jimbo meant pulling the sparkplug wires one at a time to see which cylinder is not firing.

Is this engine dual single carbed or dual dual throat carbed?
BTW, dual single carbs typically idle on 2 cylinders.
That might be part of your issue, if your engine is so equipped.

Please post a pic of the engine. We're all guessing on what's going on.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2025 10:08 am    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

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67rustavenger wrote:
I think jimbo meant pulling the sparkplug wires one at a time to see which cylinder is not firing.

Is this engine dual single carbed or dual dual throat carbed?
BTW, dual single carbs typically idle on 2 cylinders.
That might be part of your issue, if your engine is so equipped.

Please post a pic of the engine. We're all guessing on what's going on.


Generator was swapped out for a 55 amp alternator.
And brand new set of Empi 40mm carbs installed jetted by AJ Sims
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2025 7:33 am    Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle Reply with quote

67rustavenger wrote:
I think jimbo meant pulling the sparkplug wires one at a time to see which cylinder is not firing.

Is this engine dual single carbed or dual dual throat carbed?
BTW, dual single carbs typically idle on 2 cylinders.
That might be part of your issue, if your engine is so equipped.

Please post a pic of the engine. We're all guessing on what's going on.


EXACTLY! Thank you.
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