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roymann Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2004 Posts: 507
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Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2025 9:42 am Post subject: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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Help! - Engine has less than 10,000 miles on it. New motor mounts were installed from Mid-America. To eliminate the bad motor mounts possibility, I fabricated a brace ( see pic) , bolted to the pass. side exhaust and frame - now shake is transferred to the whole car. Feels like a misfire to me. Here is a list of recent changes to try to correct the shake:
Originally bought 1914cc long block from JCS Volks Machine - shook from day one at 1000 rpm idle.
9,500 miles later - Heads removed and sent to reputable shop for 3 angle valve grinding. Valves and springs replaced.
Generator replaced with 55amp alternator.
Checked firing order 1-4-3-2
Valve lash set at .004 push rods are steel and engine starts with one click of the key so there is no compression loss there. Originally set the lash at Zero - still shook.
Brand new Empi 40mm carbs installed - Re-jetted by A.J. Sims at Low Bugget. Fuel mixture screws reset.
NGK spark plugs replaced with new Bosch - gap at 25
Bosch Coil replaced with Petronix Flame Thrower 40K volts
New plug wires by Duralast- Each wire shows flash on timing light.
Loosened Dizzy - Tested advance and retard - set at 30-32 degrees at 3000 rpms. Still shakes at idle after re-set.
Installed Holly Fuel pressure regulator and gauge - Fuel pressure at 2 1/2lbs
Dizzy is 009 with Petronix electronic ignition.
Gas is fresh.
The only thing I did not replace yet is the dizzy. I'm at wits end here running out of ideas.
My original install shook at idle and still shakes after all these attempts. And I don't mean a little shake - it's visible.
What have I missed? Any suggestions? _________________ 73 Bug deVille
77 Vert - Under Destruction
Lookie here - http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/305639.jpg
Last edited by roymann on Wed Mar 12, 2025 10:05 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Glenn  Mr. 010

Joined: December 25, 2001 Posts: 79376 Location: Sneaking up behind you
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Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2025 9:48 am Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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Your bracket is solid and transferring any engine vibration to the body. Why do you need those? _________________ Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
Member #1009
#BlueSquare
עַם יִשְׂרָאֵל חַי |
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roymann Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2004 Posts: 507
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Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2025 10:10 am Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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Glenn wrote: |
Your bracket is solid and transferring any engine vibration to the body. Why do you need those? |
I installed it to eliminate the possibility of bad motor mounts even though they were brand new. The engine shook without them and now the brace just transferred the vibration to the whole car. I'll probably take it off if I can stop the shake.
Thanks for responding. _________________ 73 Bug deVille
77 Vert - Under Destruction
Lookie here - http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/305639.jpg |
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Root_Werks Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2007 Posts: 1049 Location: San Juan Islands
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Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2025 10:14 am Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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Sort of sounds like your carbs aren't balanced and/or there's a plugged idle circuit or jet. One barrel out of sync will idle like a dead cylinder and shake a lot.
-Dan _________________ When I set my timing, why do I flush, then take a pee? |
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DerrickfromNC1 Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2008 Posts: 1396 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2025 10:56 am Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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Root_Werks wrote: |
Sort of sounds like your carbs aren't balanced and/or there's a plugged idle circuit or jet. One barrel out of sync will idle like a dead cylinder and shake a lot.
-Dan |
Sounds like carbs are not balanced or a stated above plugged idle circuit. Try pulling sparkplug wires one at a time to find the dead cylinder or cylinders. If one or more are dead check the idle circuit, wires, and plug for that cylinder. Either way running a solid mount like that which is “as you have done” is essentially from the body to the aluminum head which is a stress to the exhaust stud area of the heads. |
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roymann Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2004 Posts: 507
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Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2025 11:03 am Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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DerrickfromNC1 wrote: |
Root_Werks wrote: |
Sort of sounds like your carbs aren't balanced and/or there's a plugged idle circuit or jet. One barrel out of sync will idle like a dead cylinder and shake a lot.
-Dan |
Sounds like carbs are not balanced or a stated above plugged idle circuit. Try pulling sparkplug wires one at a time to find the dead cylinder or cylinders. If one or more are dead check the idle circuit, wires, and plug for that cylinder. Either way running a solid mount like that which is “as you have done” is essentially from the body to the aluminum head which is a stress to the exhaust stud area of the heads. |
Yes, I will be taking the brace off as it proved the shake was not due to bad motor mounts which have less than 10,000 miles on them. I will try removing plug wires one at a time. Thanks for responding. _________________ 73 Bug deVille
77 Vert - Under Destruction
Lookie here - http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/305639.jpg |
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DerrickfromNC1 Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2008 Posts: 1396 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2025 12:40 pm Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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roymann wrote: |
DerrickfromNC1 wrote: |
Root_Werks wrote: |
Sort of sounds like your carbs aren't balanced and/or there's a plugged idle circuit or jet. One barrel out of sync will idle like a dead cylinder and shake a lot.
-Dan |
Sounds like carbs are not balanced or a stated above plugged idle circuit. Try pulling sparkplug wires one at a time to find the dead cylinder or cylinders. If one or more are dead check the idle circuit, wires, and plug for that cylinder. Either way running a solid mount like that which is “as you have done” is essentially from the body to the aluminum head which is a stress to the exhaust stud area of the heads. |
Yes, I will be taking the brace off as it proved the shake was not due to bad motor mounts which have less than 10,000 miles on them. I will try removing plug wires one at a time. Thanks for responding. |
Yes….the rubber motor mounts are there to secure the motor and prevent the transmission of vibration into the body. Not to prevent a properly running engine from rocking. |
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Dougy Dee Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2004 Posts: 1755 Location: Niagara Region, CANADA
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Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2025 4:09 pm Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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"Shook from day one..." There's a good possibility you have a piston or rod installed backwards. |
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jinx758 Samba Member
Joined: October 04, 2014 Posts: 999 Location: half a bubble from plumb
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Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2025 7:41 pm Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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Known problem with the red urethane bushings to cause harshness - be it shift rod, transaxle mounts, or front beam.
If used.
A lumpy cam can do this also. - not sure of motor specs or if engine has always done this.
My half cent guess is on nosecone as suggested.
Best luck ... stay safe
jinx _________________ " It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford
It's not unlike the same difference ...
My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor |
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DerrickfromNC1 Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2008 Posts: 1396 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2025 9:34 pm Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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Your engine rocking if not something internally is diffinitely the “Kadron Rock”. I put a set of kadrons on a 2180 and it basically idles off of cylinders 1 and 3. It was explained to me that one cylinder was robbing the intake of the 2nd cylinder at idle. You have a 2 cylinder motor at idle. A friend of mine has a mild 1776 that has an acceptable idle and his motor has the balance tube connected. My 2180 would idle fairly smoothly at around 1300rpm and a balance tube made no difference either way.
Read these threads:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ght=kadron
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=760383&highlight=kadron |
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roymann Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2004 Posts: 507
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Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2025 2:48 pm Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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Glenn wrote: |
Your bracket is solid and transferring any engine vibration to the body. Why do you need those? |
Hey Glenn - Are you still in CT? Are you up for a road trip to Central New Jersey? I would pay you $1000.00 to come here and stop my engine from shaking at idle. Wanna talk on the phone? 732-575-3543 _________________ 73 Bug deVille
77 Vert - Under Destruction
Lookie here - http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/305639.jpg |
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VW_Jimbo  Samba Member

Joined: May 22, 2016 Posts: 11071 Location: Huntington Beach, CA
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Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2025 8:30 pm Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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Pull the plug wires one at a time and see if the missing can be narrowed down to a single hole. If you can find the dead hole, you can narrow it down. Might just be a plugged up idle jet. A shot of carb cleaner would tell you really quick!
Steel pushrods are set to loose zero, warmed engine. Stock are set to .006 stone cold. Where did you get .004” from? _________________ Jimbo
There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!
TDCTDI wrote: |
Basically, a whole bunch of fuckery to achieve a look. |
67rustavenger wrote: |
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!  |
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roymann Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2004 Posts: 507
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Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2025 3:54 am Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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VW_Jimbo wrote: |
Pull the plug wires one at a time and see if the missing can be narrowed down to a single hole. If you can find the dead hole, you can narrow it down. Might just be a plugged up idle jet. A shot of carb cleaner would tell you really quick!
Steel pushrods are set to loose zero, warmed engine. Stock are set to .006 stone cold. Where did you get .004” from? |
Steel pushrods are supposed to be set at zero lash. I initially set them at zero - engine still shook at idle, so, to eliminate the possibility of 'too tight" I set them at .004 - no difference - still shakes. _________________ 73 Bug deVille
77 Vert - Under Destruction
Lookie here - http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/305639.jpg |
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VW_Jimbo  Samba Member

Joined: May 22, 2016 Posts: 11071 Location: Huntington Beach, CA
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Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2025 8:37 am Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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roymann wrote: |
VW_Jimbo wrote: |
Pull the plug wires one at a time and see if the missing can be narrowed down to a single hole. If you can find the dead hole, you can narrow it down. Might just be a plugged up idle jet. A shot of carb cleaner would tell you really quick!
Steel pushrods are set to loose zero, warmed engine. Stock are set to .006 stone cold. Where did you get .004” from? |
Steel pushrods are supposed to be set at zero lash. I initially set them at zero - engine still shook at idle, so, to eliminate the possibility of 'too tight" I set them at .004 - no difference - still shakes. |
It is a “loose” zero. The push rods have to be able to roll with your fingers on a warm engine.
Did you do it like that?
What happened with the drop test? _________________ Jimbo
There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!
TDCTDI wrote: |
Basically, a whole bunch of fuckery to achieve a look. |
67rustavenger wrote: |
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!  |
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roymann Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2004 Posts: 507
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Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2025 9:29 am Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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VW_Jimbo wrote: |
roymann wrote: |
VW_Jimbo wrote: |
Pull the plug wires one at a time and see if the missing can be narrowed down to a single hole. If you can find the dead hole, you can narrow it down. Might just be a plugged up idle jet. A shot of carb cleaner would tell you really quick!
Steel pushrods are set to loose zero, warmed engine. Stock are set to .006 stone cold. Where did you get .004” from? |
Steel pushrods are supposed to be set at zero lash. I initially set them at zero - engine still shook at idle, so, to eliminate the possibility of 'too tight" I set them at .004 - no difference - still shakes. |
It is a “loose” zero. The push rods have to be able to roll with your fingers on a warm engine.
Did you do it like that?
Yes
What happened with the drop test? |
What do you mean 'drop test'? Compression? _________________ 73 Bug deVille
77 Vert - Under Destruction
Lookie here - http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/305639.jpg |
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67rustavenger Samba Member

Joined: February 24, 2015 Posts: 10933 Location: Oregon
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Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2025 9:35 am Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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I think jimbo meant pulling the sparkplug wires one at a time to see which cylinder is not firing.
Is this engine dual single carbed or dual dual throat carbed?
BTW, dual single carbs typically idle on 2 cylinders.
That might be part of your issue, if your engine is so equipped.
Please post a pic of the engine. We're all guessing on what's going on. _________________ I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!
There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!
2003 Astrovan? GFYS again, Xevin!  |
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roymann Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2004 Posts: 507
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Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2025 10:08 am Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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67rustavenger wrote: |
I think jimbo meant pulling the sparkplug wires one at a time to see which cylinder is not firing.
Is this engine dual single carbed or dual dual throat carbed?
BTW, dual single carbs typically idle on 2 cylinders.
That might be part of your issue, if your engine is so equipped.
Please post a pic of the engine. We're all guessing on what's going on. |
Generator was swapped out for a 55 amp alternator.
And brand new set of Empi 40mm carbs installed jetted by AJ Sims _________________ 73 Bug deVille
77 Vert - Under Destruction
Lookie here - http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/305639.jpg |
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VW_Jimbo  Samba Member

Joined: May 22, 2016 Posts: 11071 Location: Huntington Beach, CA
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Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2025 7:33 am Post subject: Re: 1914cc Dual 40mm - Shakes at idle |
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67rustavenger wrote: |
I think jimbo meant pulling the sparkplug wires one at a time to see which cylinder is not firing.
Is this engine dual single carbed or dual dual throat carbed?
BTW, dual single carbs typically idle on 2 cylinders.
That might be part of your issue, if your engine is so equipped.
Please post a pic of the engine. We're all guessing on what's going on. |
EXACTLY! Thank you. _________________ Jimbo
There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!
TDCTDI wrote: |
Basically, a whole bunch of fuckery to achieve a look. |
67rustavenger wrote: |
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!  |
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