Slow to start when cold after new points adjust

[jpufnock]

Hey guys,

So I have a sort-of beginner issue. 1978 FI. Was running/starting great (of course) But noticed after it was "tuned" up by a local VW shop, the dwell was about 43-44 ( out of spec according to Bently)

I decided to install new points and did my first ever points adjustment using a feeler gage, followed by a dwell meter. My dwell is now about 48-49 at 800-850rpm and timing was set (although it wasn't far off) to 7.5. I checked the dwell at higher rpm and it did not fluctuate at all. Looks great on paper.

Now, it takes about 15-20 cranks to start from cold. When it finally does start to turn over, it...fires..very...slow..one..at ...a time untill it finally catches. It does NOT do this if it has been driven recently, but only after sitting.

While driving: I have noticed a very slight pause-go (light buck) but not at regular intervals, but when cruising at steady speed. I have also noticed (although this might be related to a fan shroud coming loose) that it is running about 20deg hotter on the highway.

The only thing that was changed was the points to bring them to spec. Could changing the dwell expose a coil problem? Why only when cold? I also cleaned the points off to remove any fouling oil. I have not tried putting the old points back in yet and that will be my next step.

Things that are almost brand new:
-Plugs and wires
-Condenser
-Fuel Injectors/seals/pressure reg
-Temp Sensor II (also resistance checks out)
-Fuel Filter

I have replaced most vacuum hoses and don't suspect a major leak. Voltage on battery when not running also seems good.

Thanks as always guys for educating me.

-jeff

[germansupplyscott]

make sure the connection at the cold start valve is good. it is right beside the distributor and it might get disturbed when doing the points and timing. this could affect the cold start issue but it doesn't explain the issue while running.

if that does nothing try putting the old set of points back in and reset them.
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SL

[Randy in Maine]

I like a bad igniton wire -spark plug connection.

[Wildthings]

You should not have had any oil on your points, they should have been dry and clean. Where did the oil come from? If you cleaned your points you may have left some small bit of foreign material between them. What did you clean them with?

It only takes a tiny bit of oil to fully lube a distributor, and the wear block for the points should be lubed with a grease specified for that purpose.

[SGKent]

it has been a long time since working with dwell. Dwell is nothing more that the % of time the points are open vs closed. If the dwell is off, the gap is off. That is partially why your timing changed. If the gap is off too much the time the coil has to collapse and rebuild is affected. That can change voltages and expose a bad coil or wire. Also. make sure the rotor and cap were put back on right. I like Scott's answer the best however did you check the vacuum lines that go into the distributor vacuum can? If it is cracked or off it can change vacuum which will change A/F ratios and make the mixture lean which would be most noticeable on a cold start. Same for a failed vacuum can.
_________________
Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand).

George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"

[jpufnock]

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will take a look this weekend and report back.

Wildthings-the oil I was concerned with was not from the distributor, but from then new feeler gage (ya know how they have that light coating of oil on them). Although unlikely, I cleaned with a q-tip and some rubbing alcohol.

Scott- A very likely suggestion. I will check the cold start valve, vacuum hoses, and plug wires to make sure everything is snug and where it should be first.

Then I will put in the old points and re-set again.

I did notice something about the new points I had that was different from the old ones. There appeared to be more play vertically with how the points lined up, compared to the old ones. (hard to explain) As though they could wobble up-down on the "arm" relative to each other. Both are Boch.

I post back my results with the old points.

Thanks,

-jeff

[raygreenwood]

Rubbing alcohol is worthless as a cleaning agent on most anything oily. For one...its isopropyl. for two...unles its 90-100% it does not have the strength to do more than move oil around. Acetone would be better...but in general is also worthless for more than basic oil or notor oil.

Be careful in using this stuff...because it leads you to believe you are getting things clean when you arn't.

The vertical play, misalignment of the arms and high spots in teh fixed contact have been notorious issues with Bosch points (most of which are made in Brazil and Mexico and have been for at least two decades).....for some time. It one of the main reasons (a) I quit using Bosch points in about 1988. Blue streak are the very best. Stronger spring, copper frame, perfect alignment, larger tungsten contacts. (b) I quit using points altogether. Get a pertronix or something similar. Points are pretty worthless in this day and age. I keep a set for spare...but would never go back.

What is your outside temp in seattle? My bet is that you are nowhere even close to cold enough for the cold start valve to turn on. Needs to be about 35F....depending on which thermotime switch you have.

By the way...if you must use points....these are hands down the best ever made: The points by Standard Motor products . The "blue streak" points have a solid copper frame and moving arm with tungsten contacts almost twice the side of the points on Bosch ...with a much heavier spring. They are carefully aligned and have no high spots. The contacts are induction wlded on around the perimeter instead of a "dot in the center. $6.02 per set at Rockauto.com Part # GB 4173XP
Even their sleezier lower budget points are twice as good as Bosch with a 6/12 nylon frame and all copper arm with oversized contacts. $5.02 per set. Part # GB 4173P. I keep a brand new set in a box in the glove box. I have needed them once since I started using a points replacement module. Once in 14 years. It was my error....not the module. I was not careful in the palcement of the wire inside teh dizzy and it abraided itself on the edge of the breaker plate and shorted out. It took 6 months to do so. It was the compufire brand...which has not as nice of a wire harness as Pertronix.
http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mfr,STANDARD%2BMOTOR...r%2BSwitch
Ray