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57 SC heater box repair question
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BONANZA STEVE
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Joined: August 24, 2007
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Location: Bonanza Oregon
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 3:28 pm    Post subject: 57 SC heater box repair question Reply with quote

Can someone assist me in finding info for heater box repair? One of my J pipe is thrashed.
I can not find New or decent used Box for my 57 SC
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hazetguy
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

25/36hp heater box restoration kit, two J-pipes, two flanges.
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$69 ea kit
J pipes and flanges for both sides of the engine. For 25 and 36 hp engines. Will not fit 40 hp stale air heater boxes.
http://www.zarwerks.com/
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BONANZA STEVE
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 4:15 pm    Post subject: Great info Reply with quote

Thanks so much Hazetguy. Great site with better information. I will order in the morning.
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hazetguy
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you want step-by-step pics and descriptions, here is how i do that job. not all steps are applicable to later 36hp heater boxes.:
Here's how the pair of heater boxes looked at the start. Previously repaired with those clamp on replacement pipes, that always seem to have exhaust leaks.
Time to replace the entire exhaust pipe.
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The pipes and flanges arrive, complete with "instructions" on how to trim the ends if for earlier heater box types, and dimensions.
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After disassembling the heater box halves, this is what is seen inside. This pair is an earlier pair, where the support bracket is on the inside, rather than on the outside like later boxes.
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I cut the weld holding the bracket to the exhaust pipe.
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Then I cut the old pipe in half to remove it from the housing.
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Then the real fun begins.
Right out of the box, the flanges do not fit on the pipes. I think from being bent, the pipes get somewhat ovalled, and the flanges have burrs on the inside.
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As per the instuctions for early heater boxes, 17mm of the pipe needs to be trimmed at the end where it meets the head.
17mm is marked all the way around, and then cut with a hacksaw.
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And after trimming, the flange still does not fit on the pipe. Time for some filing and some light grinding.
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The inside of the flange is sanded with a sanding drum type attachment.
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The outside of the pipe is lightly grindered with one of those wheels that look like little bits of sandpaper. This also makes a nice surface for welding later on.
After a few go-rounds it makes the o.d. small enough to fit into the flange (after the flange has been sanded too).
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Here's a comparison pic of a sanded flange (lower) compared to the "right out of the package" flange (upper). Notice the burrs and rough finish on the inside of the unsanded one.
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Test fitting flanges and pipes, to make sure no more trimming or fitting needs to be done before mock-up assembly.
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Test fitting flanges and pipes, to make sure no more trimming or fitting needs to be done before mock-up assembly.
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After making sure pipes and flanges fit well, time for mock-up.
Heater boxes are installed, as are the parts where the pipes pass through. This way all clearances can be checked, and minor adjustments can be made before tack welding.
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After making sure pipes and flanges fit well, time for mock-up.
Heater boxes are installed, as are the parts where the pipes pass through. This way all clearances can be checked, and minor adjustments can be made before tack welding.
Support bracket meets the pipe nicely, everything looking good so far.
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after that is is basically putting a few tack welds on the flange/pipe and any brackets on the heater box, removing it from the head, and finish welding off the engine. i really feel like doing a mock up on an actual engine is the only way to make sure the exhaust pipes will align properly and fit well.

When I pull the assembly off the head, I try to have about a 1mm space on the inside like shown. This leaves enough room for weld, provides plenty of room for the weld to penetrate, without having to do too much finishing grinding on the inside.
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Welded.
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Welds on flange smoothed for good fit. Ready for heat coating.
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Last edited by hazetguy on Sun Feb 08, 2009 5:05 pm; edited 1 time in total
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microbus
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice work!
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KarmannBob
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Again, another awesome hazetguy tutorial. The method and explanations are clear, and the photos are great. Honestly hazetguy should do a book, get it published, and probably make a lot of money. I know I'd be willing to spend good bucks for a comprehensive book with this clarity.
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BONANZA STEVE
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 9:08 am    Post subject: Hazetguy We are not worthy Reply with quote

Thanks so much. This will help me and everybody else needing this info.
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He who flips me off while passing me in my Bus is not a friend. He who stops to help push my Bus is a friend for life.
1. 1969 Bay Weekender
1 1973 412 Wgn
1 1967 Ford Fairlane Ranchero
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BONANZA STEVE
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Joined: August 24, 2007
Posts: 158
Location: Bonanza Oregon
BONANZA STEVE is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 5:16 pm    Post subject: Heater Boxes repaired got lucky Reply with quote

I had them sand blasted and after finding a 40 hp box i had i took part of the J tube cut and welded in section that was bad.
I decided this was alot easier than new J tube repair.

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_________________
He who flips me off while passing me in my Bus is not a friend. He who stops to help push my Bus is a friend for life.
1. 1969 Bay Weekender
1 1973 412 Wgn
1 1967 Ford Fairlane Ranchero
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
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