How to adjust 1990 Vanagon shifter linkage, 4 speed swap

[dubbified]

I swapped my 90 vanagon mv (sans kitch weekender) from auto to 4speed w t3 short shift spacer.. and was able to get into all gears.. but things didnt last.. less than a dozen shift attempts The 8.8 grade bolt supplied in the kit snapped.. (wrist tight)

I made the decision to remove the T3 spacer for the 4speed the union nut thing just was not holding the shifter plate well enough.. maybe next move is that super nice shifter tower.. but its like 500 something.. (not today)

I removed the shifter connection to the rod, I pulled the shifter plate, removing the spacer, removing the union nuts (that were acting like spacers) cleaning up the oe threads that hold the shifter plate down to the chassis, and got some new flange nuts for ideal clamping force so the shifter does not slop or flop around.

While in there reassembling the shifter throgh floor rod, I relubed the tabs.. putting the shifter alignment plate in the middle of its radial movement sweep.

Now, for the trick.. One man tasked with adjusting this flippin thing. What's the easiest path?

I read that the transmission should be in N, and the manual alludes to one of two spacers.. but the image on my book, sucks, and is like do dark I cant figure out were the hell it goes.

I looked in, https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6236053#6236053 seeing its like herding cats that are all hungry for an answer.. not a clear answer is found.. and not a step by step guide.. pictures always helps, for a guy who's never seen this thing in action.

Anyone have a guide on the process that enables 1 person to do this alignment?

The bent chap 34, 34.5 calls out two spacer sizes.. mmmm.. which to use?

Technically my setup was originally auto, I have no reference as to which I should use.

The only fun business I put forth during this project was a new union joint, a gowesty lightweight shifter lever cup, new shifter lever on trans.. and all new bearing on the floor, new box.. new shifter gate bolt on piece that goes on that box.. and I replaced the tabs on the shifter with a new epoxy on kit, reconditioned the rods in epoxy black paint for suspension and heat shrinked them so they look very pretty, and reduce vibration, or resonance.

Thanks!

[MarkWard]

The manual complicates a simple adjustment. The above picture is what your shift rod looks like in neutral. Mimic that and you should be good.

[ALIKA T3]

I made a video showing how simple this is, on my IG page.
Here's the link to it, 1 person job.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C5XATQxPjBs/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
_________________
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
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[dubbified]

OH MY..

Thank you guys!!

I am building a wood box and baseplate for the shifter booty, which will provide a foundation for the 8 gang switch panel I am adding.. final mod before I can drive it..

Having the shifter in a known ideal configuration is essential to knowing my tolerances for that box..

As far as the position of the shifter, how to "hold" that in the right place?

I've alredy come to find using two vice grips on each half of the shaft, then loosening the splined connector seems to be good measure..

Will check out this vid!

[dubbified]

Alright, I am still struggling.

The process in that vid is what I am following.

I can get the shifter to shift the transmission into R, 1, 4, but not 2nd.. or 4th.. its like, it can almost engage, but does not engage.. clipping some teeth as I try to shift.. so, back to capture some advice.

I did follow the instructions, a 1-2mm visible gap inside the rod/knuckle adjustment under the van.. I did this, twice, no change. Surely can get into three gears quickly..

Should I be, loosening the clamp on the slotted adjusting clamp knuckle.. shortening the rod by pushing the splined shaft into the housing, and retightening the clamp?

[crazyvwvanman]

Post a photo or two of the transmission end of your linkage.

It is a very common mistake to mount the rear bushing plate on the wrong side of the 2 ears on the side of the transmission.
This makes it hard to fully engage some gears.
The plate needs to be on the FORWARD side of the ears.

It is also possible to assemble the bushing plate itself in more than one way.


edit: here is a photo of the 2 ears on the side of the trans, for the bushing plate.
The plate goes on the side closest to the front of the vehicle.
Also, push the plate up firmly and hold it there before tightening the 2 bolts.

Mark

[dubbified]

Thanks for the poiinters here!

oh what the....

HEY... That.. is the cleanest trans.. I'd ever seen. omg.. meticulous bolt treatment.

I see what you're doing there.

it works.

This is the issue, the tab is mounted to the rear side of that two bolt mounting boss.

I'm on it.

Thanks!!