'74 Wiper Stalk & Washer Spray

[InstaGib]

For backstory:
I've recently purchased a '74 beetle, which seems to be in pretty good shape. It was owned by someone who replaced the floor pans and heater channels, then due to life circumstances sold to someone with much less mechanical ability. From there some things were done just to make it relatively road worthy, and it was driven 150 miles until it came into my life. It runs and drives pretty well for a 50 year old car, but needs some love. I suppose it's due to the ownership history, but I keep finding a strange mix of things that were done the right way with attention to detail, and then things that were just sort of slammed together.


Now to the real question:
I can't figure out the washer spray to save my life here. I know that it runs off of the spare tire, which is missing in the car. I tried filling the bottle up with water and connecting it to a tire from a wheelbarrow in the garage, and heard the line pressurize. Nothing with the bottle seems clogged, and the lines look okay to me. The spray nozzle on the hood was painted over, but it looks like the holes are clean. The thing that's really throwing me for a loop is I can't even figure out how these things activate? It says "wipe/wash" on the stalk, the manual I found on here indicates that it should pull towards the driver, yet it doesn't feel like it moves at all. There is a bit of play in the wheel (I suspect it needs a new bearing/bushing in the steering column, and the horn doesn't work in certain positions), is that maybe related? From my understanding the entire assembly is mechanical, so I would expect to really feel this thing moving.

I'm concerned I might need this for inspection, so any help I can get on this is very appreciated.

[volksworld]

originally from ny and washers were not part of inspection, only wipers...the washer system needs 42 pounds of air in the spare to work...the valve wont let the system work at lower pressures to prevent you from winding up with a flat spare from washer use...there is very little movement in the stalk to make it work and the system would not be affected by any play in the column...the system is completely mechanical and you can see where the 2 hoses attach to the switch behind the column head under the dash...when these leak you can get washer fluid in your lap...the nozzle on the cowl can clog with wax or just general crud on the inside...and lots of times the valve on the bottle goes bad or the piece that connects to the valve stem can be damaged by overtightening, pulling the threaded insert out...the directional switch has a brass finger that contacts a brass ring on the back of the wheel to complete the horn circuit...these rub against each other as the wheel turns and will eventually wear away making the horn only work in some spots...or excessive distance between the wheel and column head can do this also

[InstaGib]

[sjbartnik]

The system is pretty straightforward, but prone to leaking if you use the wrong kind of hose. The correct size (2mm I think) high-pressure hose is available from some of the VW-specific vendors like bughaus.

Anyway, here's how it's supposed to work:

You fill the fluid tank and screw on the cap. Attach the hose lead to your spare tire which should be fully inflated to about 40 psi. If you're concerned about the integrity of your hoses you can go with less, like 30 psi. This will pressurize the tank.

The washer tank cap has a valve in it that it supposed to stop taking air from the spare once the spare reaches 26 psi. This is so that you will never be left with a flat spare from using the washer.

A hose runs from the bottom of the tank all the way up the steering column to the washer stalk. There is a valve in the washer switch which you activate by pulling the washer stalk toward you (eg toward the rear of the car). This opens the valve which allows the fluid to flow under pressure through another hose up to the nozzle on the cowl. Assuming the hose is intact and the nozzle jets are not clogged, you should have fluid on the screen at this point.

The nozzle jets can be aimed with an un-bent paperclip.

Make sure if you replace the hose in this system you use the correct hose, or the one that's pressurized all the time will eventually pop off or rupture and dump the contents of the washer tank all over your feet while driving.
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1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650

[Tim Donahoe]

Seems like I remember the washer valve stops working at 29 psi, so you don’t run down your spare too much.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[sjbartnik]

I think it's 26 psi is when it stops taking air from the spare.

That said the tank at that point is still pressurized to 26 psi and the washer will work fine at 26 psi and keep working until the tank is completely depressurized by usage.
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1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650

[InstaGib]

[Tim Donahoe]

I got tired of playing with the original washer system and went over to an electrical pump, but still using the original water bottle as a reservoir. Better squirt, no constant pressure to leak on your feet, and no running the spare tire flat.

But, if you’re into restoring the original stuff, think about buying a new pressure cut-off valve that screws into the top of the bottle.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[Jimbug57]

I went with an aftermarket-

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Repeat after me "I am smarter than metal!"

[Cusser]