Fuel Line Diagram

[si fly]

I have a 1959 Beetle and was wondering if there was a diagram or really any info out there on the fuel line and where it goes. I am asking because I don't really want to tear anything apart until I know more info.

[fastinradford]

It just runs from the tank, soft line to the hard line in the tunnel. Out of the tunnel near the trans and to the engine.

[Hotrodvw]

Just for my fellow Oregonian.

A fellow member here posted these a while back:

_________________
'67 Sunroof
Eric

78x94 with IDA's....oober fun

Horsepower is an addiction........Addictions cost
lots of money!

Hose & Fittings

[BUGTHUG]

THANKS Hotrodvw, I knew someone had to have a cutout that showed all the guts of whats in the tunnel. I don't live in Oregon, but it helped me out too. BUGTHUG
_________________
I know you would understand what I'm saying if you could just see my HANDS
Even the middle of the week says W T F

1963 15 window bus
1966 VW bug
1966 21 window micro bus
1969 Dune Buggy
1965 VW bug
1974 VW bug
1972 Kelmark, VW drive line
1948 Chevrolet Hearse

[Hotrodvw]

Not in Oregon?? You can't look then.

You're welcome.
_________________
'67 Sunroof
Eric

78x94 with IDA's....oober fun

Horsepower is an addiction........Addictions cost
lots of money!

Hose & Fittings

[woodyracing]

Hey hotrodvw,

Not to change the subject, but which one of those tabs is notorious for breaking where the clutch tube comes loose and shakes the car all to hell? I think I need to do that to mine and in all my years of VW'n, I have never seen this part of a VW except for drawings.

Woody

[delliott101]

MAN!!! That looks awesome!!! I have to save those pictures.

Hey, si fly... let's see some pictures of your '59!
_________________
Transplanted Jersey Boy living in Idaho by way of Northern California!

We don't own old VWs, we just take care of them for the next driver

[si fly]

Thank you so much Hotrodvw, those pictures are very helpful. I'm pretty new to the VW beetle so here is another question.
How do you get in that tunnel?

Hey delliott101 I am not at a computer with pictures of my beetle on it but I will do that ASAP.

[Hotrodvw]

You're going to have to cut an access panle to get in and fix it. Make it so you can re-install the panel piece with screws.
_________________
'67 Sunroof
Eric

78x94 with IDA's....oober fun

Horsepower is an addiction........Addictions cost
lots of money!

Hose & Fittings

[si fly]

You mean there is no good way into it?

[si fly]

I will lay out the whole problem I have.
The original owner stopped driving it somewhere around 1970 so there are a lot of little problems but a big one is the gas kind of broke down. I has clogged the fuel line that runs through that tunnel, so what is the best way to fix that?

[Hotrodvw]

Not really. The only 'access' is the front shift rod panel at the frame head, and the mounting point for the shifter. If you saw how VW assembled them, you'd see why. The tunnel was built, then the tubing was installed for the cables to run in, fuel line, etc......then the pan halves were added as well as the bottom of the tunnel. Make an access. You can cover it with carpet.
_________________
'67 Sunroof
Eric

78x94 with IDA's....oober fun

Horsepower is an addiction........Addictions cost
lots of money!

Hose & Fittings

[Hotrodvw]

[si fly]

If the brake cleaner can eat through it I would not even have to do anything really in the tunnel. I will have to give that a try.
By the way you bug is fantastic.

[Hotrodvw]

Yeah, I think if you can clean it thoroughly, and get clear fluid out the other end, I'd say give it a go. Run a filter where it comes out of the frame horn by the trans to be safe. Thanks for the compliments.
Where are you located in Oregon?
_________________
'67 Sunroof
Eric

78x94 with IDA's....oober fun

Horsepower is an addiction........Addictions cost
lots of money!

Hose & Fittings

[si fly]

I got the beetle from a friend on the coast but, I am located actually in eastern Oregon, near Burns. You?

[EA812]

!!Don't cut it open!! This is how I did it on my 65.

This is something someone wrote up in the past. Who ever you are thank you!

First off, you don't need to cut any holes in your pan. If the body is still on the car you will need to remove the following items to use the existing access holes. Remove the front bumper and the front access cover in the frame head; remove the pedal assembly, shifter and inspection cover under the rear seat. Last of all you will need to remove the large bolt at the rear of the vehicle that secures the trans bracket on the tube that the fuel line comes out of. This will allow you a hole to look in when running the new line.
Second, The fuel line is not welded inside the tunnel, it is held in place by 2 tabs that are bent around the tube. One is located just rear if the pedal access hole and the other is accessible through the rear inspection hole and is where the rear frame tube is attached to the pan. (There is also a clip that holds the line to the clutch cable tube under the e-brake handle. You can see it if you take the boot off. That is were we broke the string pulling the new one in.) You can reach the rear one with a screwdriver to bend it open slightly. The front one is a little harder. I took a 4 ft long piece of 1/4 inch square steel tube, from Home Depot, and hammered the end flat. I reached through the front access hole and bent the strap open with it. Be patient.
Third. I broke off the existing fuel pipe where it exits the frame in the front and rear and used a screwdriver to push the tube into the frame. Then, I worked the old tube out of the frame through the pedal access hole using a pair of channel locks and pried against the opening to leverage the tube out the hole.

Now you have the old fuel line out. If you put a trouble light in the rear access hole facing forward you can look into the frame from the front access hole and you will see where to route the new fuel line.
Buy a 25ft roll of 1/4-inch steel fuel line at the auto parts store. Roll it out on the floor and tape the end to keep dirt out of it. Feed it into the frame through the front opening and don't worry about getting it in the clip until the end. Once it reaches the rear inspection hole you will have to bend it slightly to guide it down the rear tube. Turn your light in the rear inspection hole to face down the rear tube and you can look in the tube through the trans mount bolt hole. Once the tube is at the opening in the frame, use a long thin Phillips screw driver or any long round object that you can fit into the fuel line. Reach into the tube with the 1/4 inch square steel piece you got at home depot, and gently lift the fuel line up towards the opening and stick the Phillips screw driver in through the frame opening into the end of the fuel line. This will act as a guide for the line to follow up and out the hole. Now go back to the front of the vehicle
and push the line in and it will come out the rear hole very nicely. Push about 1 foot of extra out the rear frame hole to allow you to have extra for working the front into the hole. Do not cut the extra off yet.
Go to the front of the vehicle and cut the tube with a tube cutter, Make sure you can get your Phillips screw driver in the end of it so you can guide it out the frame hole like you did the rear.

Go to the rear and pull the line until the end of the tube up front is aligned with the hole in the frame and gently lift the line using the 1/4 inch steel tube and insert the Phillips screw driver in the frame opening and into the fuel line. Go to the rear and push the fuel line back into the frame and it should pop out the front hole.

Now you can adjust the tube inside the frame so it's in the straps you bent open. Use the 1/4-inch steel tube to pry the front clip back closed around the fuel line.

With your tube cutter cut the front and rear tube so you have about 4 inches sticking out. You can adjust this length later for the perfect fit.

Place the new rubber fuel line grommets over the fuel line an into the frame holes.

Reinstall your inspection cover, trans mount bolt, front access hole and front bumper and you have a new fuel line installed just like new without cutting up you car. It took me 3 hours by myself with me car body still on my 66 very. If the pan is off the car it's even easier.

It's not a bad job, just be patient and take your time. The only thing that did go wrong about the fuel line was I tied a string to the old one to pull the new one in. It snapped half why. My wife and I got real creative with strings and wires. The old line was held in by a tab in the back that clamps it to the E- brake tube. I was able to access it through the inspection cover where the shift rod attaches to the transmission. With a mirror and a screwdriver I pried it open. It was easier to close on the new line later. The next one is a clip that attaches it to the clutch cable tube under the e- brake handle. I sprayed it with WD 40 while pulling it through it. That's where the new fuel line didn't fit. It’s slightly bigger since its standard instead of metric. I used some tie wraps, the real fat ones. The last attachment point was just behind where the
pedal cluster goes into the tunnel. I was able to pry that one open with a screwdriver but it could be done from the front inspection plate by the front axle with a long bar. That's how I got it to close onto the new line. I didn't realize it at the time but I worked on it from 10:00 AM till 5:00PM but a lot of that time was spent on looking through the holes with mirrors and flashlights to see where everything was. It did help that the body and floor pans are off but It could be done with them in place.

If I had the chance to do it all over again I would try to attach the old line to the new line ( I got it from Summit Racing). Maybe use a wood screw that you cut off the head to thread it into both lines. Grind the beginning of the new line so it is a little cone shaped and grease it up. I would be willing to bet it would go through. I was able to pull the old line through that clip even the s bend part that is at the end of the chassis. I sprayed it with WD 40 to help it slip. The only thing I don't know is if there is a way to pull it through with the engine in place. I also disconnected the shifter rod so I could jam my hand in the rear inspection cover. The only thing that looks diferent is the clip holding the fuel line to the heater cable.

Brent <"OOOO={

[si fly]

Thank you!

[si fly]

Here is another question that does not really relate very much but what is this little filter?
(the fuel line is not connected)

[clenzer72]

I'm not going to add any value to this thread.
But I just wanted to say this is a great example of why this site is so awsome! I new to replace the heater cables in my 59, and now I know what's in the tunnel!