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Type 4 Rod Bushing Clearance..?
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DubKru
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 8:36 pm    Post subject: Type 4 Rod Bushing Clearance..? Reply with quote

What is the rod clearance in the wrist pin bushing? I got my rods back and they seem to have a little wiggle. How should it feel?

Robbie
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 4:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

At room temp of about 72-75F....it should be a smooth push fit. Holding the rod in both hands....and using both thumbs...moderate pressure. No wiggle whatsoever. Without straining it should take a couple seconds to push the pin in. Ray
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germansupplyscott
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 6:16 am    Post subject: Re: Type 4 Rod Bushing Clearance..? Reply with quote

DubKru wrote:
What is the rod clearance in the wrist pin bushing? I got my rods back and they seem to have a little wiggle. How should it feel?

Robbie


ray's description above is very good.

did you send the machine shop a pin when they machined the rods? is it a new pin or a used one?
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DubKru
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

New pin. I figured it shouldn't have that much slack...
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I like to take care of my engine and find a nice speed to cruise in on my bus, but sometimes.....you just get in the mood to run the piece of crap into the ground.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DubKru wrote:
New pin. I figured it shouldn't have that much slack...


New or used wrist pins?
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Bleyseng
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:19 am    Post subject: Re: Type 4 Rod Bushing Clearance..? Reply with quote

[quote="DubKru"]What is the rod clearance in the wrist pin bushing? I got my rods back and they seem to have a little wiggle. How should it feel?

Robbie[/quote.
they shouldn't have any "wiggle" as they should smoothly push in without much effort.

take em back! and have a new pin with you.
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DubKru
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The new pin is at the machinist with the rods.

Is "friction fit" the proper terms I need to be using or are there any numbers to tell him?
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Polish Rifle wrote:
I like to take care of my engine and find a nice speed to cruise in on my bus, but sometimes.....you just get in the mood to run the piece of crap into the ground.
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germansupplyscott
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the VW engine manual says, to quote directly

Quote:
at room temperature the piston pin should be a push fit in a new bush

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DubKru
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

THANKS!

I got the shop to go back and refit new bushes. The fit just didn't seem right and I wanted to make sure it wasn't just me.
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I like to take care of my engine and find a nice speed to cruise in on my bus, but sometimes.....you just get in the mood to run the piece of crap into the ground.
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DubKru - that was a wise decision. The description Scott and Ray gave were accurate. Lightly oiled, at room temp there should be a little drag as one is pushed through but neither play nor binding. The rod should also be checked for straightness at the same time. In an ideal situation you want to do the following while your rods are out.

*check for straightness
*clean them (glass bead or shotpeen)
*verify the thrust surfaces are within tolerance (big end width)
*resize the big end, making sure the measuring after resizing goes all the way around and doesn't pinch across the cap.
*lightly clean up the thrust surfaces
*resize the small end (wrist pin end) requires new bushings usually
*verify still straight
*check the weight of the rods and pins to balance them
*check the piston weight to balance them
*test the bearing fit with plastigauge before final assembly. use the old nuts for this then use new nuts on the final assembly. Verify the thrust clearances are correct on the crank.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, without oil, should the pin drop right through the bushing or should there be resistance?
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germansupplyscott
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joey wrote:
So, without oil, should the pin drop right through the bushing or should there be resistance?


no, not at all. the pin should not be passed through the honed bushing without oil, for one thing. but the resistance would be a bit greater if the pin was slid though the bush dry.
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joey wrote:
should the pin drop right through the bushing


A drop thru fit is not a push fit Wink
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:
Joey wrote:
should the pin drop right through the bushing


A drop thru fit is not a push fit Wink


They easily drop through without oil, but don't with oil. With oil they will drop through but takes a few seconds. Without oil there is slop, with oil slop is still there but not as much. No good?
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think the bushes need to be replaced if the pin will slide through under any circumstances.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree. I just have to convince the machine shop that just did them that they are wrong.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joey wrote:
I agree. I just have to convince the machine shop that just did them that they are wrong.


OH.

i always sent a pin and a note that i want them "snug". they can always be honed to fit looser.
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The other option is only let a recognized experienced top notch VW engine builder and shop to touch the parts. Additionally, VW has published all the pertenant specs. They are there for a purpose. If you arn't following the good published info it's best not to touch the engine.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:
The other option is only let a recognized experienced top notch VW engine builder and shop to touch the parts. Additionally, VW has published all the pertenant specs. They are there for a purpose. If you arn't following the good published info it's best not to touch the engine.


Unlike the southwest where there's a VW shop in every town, here there isn't any. German Supply would probably be the closest (if you want to call 1063 miles close). This shop has done them for me a few times before (Sept. was the last time) and they were fine so I don't know what happened this time... maybe a different employee... I dunno. I gave them the specs from the Bentley.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joey wrote:
Unlike the southwest where there's a VW shop in every town, here there isn't any.


i agree with this, it isn't easy to find machine or repair shops in canada with aircooled experience.
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