Dual Pole oil pressure sender

[spankowitz]

This is for those that use the dual pole VDO sender for both the VDO gauge and dash light.

A number of threads/posts suggest that the sender will set off the dash light at idle or at least with greater pressure than the factory sender. The theory and specs suggest this, but are you folks that actually use the dual pole feature finding it to be a fact in your experience? I'd do the tin mod if I didn't think the dash light would be flickering all the time, otherwise I'll use the '42 draft design' adapter.

BTW - what are people mounting the adapter block with senders to, if used (it comes with zip ties!)?
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Pete

78 Westy

[WhirledTraveller]

I am running the dual-pole in the stock location and it is setting off my oil light at idle, while the original switch does not (I've swapped between the two). Based upon my measurements the original switch I have doesn't activate until about 3psi while the VDO comes on at about 8. Yours may vary. I have plans to relocate the sender and run both, but haven't done so yet. Aircooled.net is backordered on the sender relocation kit. Ultimately my plan is to try to fix my low oil pressure problem
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1977 Westy, Automatic. Big Valve heads, CS Cam.

[rcnotes]

Here's how I installed mine next to the defrost blower. The hose goes down through the grommet in the tin at the stock location.

[rcnotes]

I forgot to add that, using the aftermarket package and 20x50 oil, warmed up good to 200-210 F, 850-900 rpm idle.

Pull off the highway and at the bottom of the hill, the OP gage reads about 9 lbs and the dash light flickers at 850-900 idle.

The new switch is set for higher pressure around 10 lbs. IIRC, stock is 6 lbs.

I set the hot idle to about 950 rpm and the dash light doesn't come on. I figure if OP is 9+ lb minimum at idle, depending on oil temp, things are good.

[germansupplyscott]

stock switch is .15-.45 bar / 2.2-6.5 psi. VDO dual pole is .5 +/- .15 bar, which at the high end of the range is 9.5 psi. these are published specs. so yes absolutely the VDO sender can light the dash light sooner than the stock switch.
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SL

[Desertbusman]

This topic is about about 2 totally different topics. The pressure at which the light goes out and mounting the sender. Mine are T-1's so there is no issue regarding the mounting.
As far as the pressure at which the VDO sender actuates or rather when the warning light goes on or off it has never been a concern. The only time my light would come on would be if the oil was real hot and the idle was turned down so low that the engine was just barely running probably much slower than the starter cranking speed. And actually if I pull the coil wire the light goes out with the starter turning it. As far as what pressure it switches you can't read the gauge with any accuracy at those low readings. I have a direct reading gauge that I can put it into a normally plugged port in my full flow line. Sometime it will be interesting to see what pressure the sender switches. But if the light flickered with either the single or double VDO sender it would be a concern.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[rcnotes]

Just my seat of the pants observations. Works for me. It hasn't blown up yet.

Everybody else's mileage will most certainly and obviously vary from mine.

[Jody '71]

DBM, would the use of 20-50 in Michigan climate this time of year have anything to do with it? Just curious.
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'66 Beetle
2011 Hyundai Elantra Touring

[Desertbusman]

Sure would Jody I cringed when seeing that. 10W-30 or 5W something would be a lot more suitable. For the last couple years mine are running 20W-50 as a year around oil. Which is nice in 115 degree weather or our 120 days over a hundred. But in the winter it is real marginal and probably I've seldom started them at temps below 50. The coldest was around 32F in Cali a couple days but that would have been with 10W-40 which I used to use during the colder months.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[rcnotes]

I'll take a shot at that one... Oh, I hope my mounting pic was of some help for those with T4 engines.

Those are my personal observations. They're like this most of the year. Yeah, single digit air temps make a diff and below 20F it's not easy to get far above 190F oil temps and a little more OP. And the oil does run hotter and thinner in the when it's above 90F outside, whether it's here or anywhere.

Oh, I fully realize that gages aren't accurate at that low of pressure, but I'm not driving the Space Shuttle either.

[rcnotes]

I feel like such a fool. I beg your forgiveness.

[Jody '71]

You're forgiven IF you put thinner oil in your engine. It's gotta be cold as sh*t up there in Michigan. It's in the high 30's here in VA right now and I've got 10-40 in my engine. That's suspect.
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'66 Beetle
2011 Hyundai Elantra Touring

[rcnotes]

So let me get in on your in-jokery.

I guess some people assumed I use the same weight oil or drive my camper daily here in Michigan. We all know how to spell "assume", don't we.

Well, I do use the same weight oil year round. 90% of my driving is in the summer, long distance and not in Michigan. And if I do drive my camper in the winter it's usually to the south or southwest. Sadly tho, I find some folks from the SW a little judgmental and lacking in manners.

I changed my oil twice last summer, about 8k miles. The last time it was changed, with Royal Purple 20x50 was before I covered it up in December. I've driven it maybe 50 miles this winter and have no plans to drive anywhere until April and then it's to the Keys. I figure 20/50 to be a good choice for a 4000 mile trip from Michigan to the sub tropics for a couple of months.

Now, why would I want to change to whatever weight of oil that someone else might prefer when they have no idea of my needs or the way I use my camper?

Anyone up for spelling?

[rcnotes]

I want to apologize to the OP spankowitz, for, as I was attempting to be a little helpful, some people decided to hijack the thread, told us that there were actually two topics and criticized the weight of my choice of oil.

And if it's one thing do don't do to another guy is assume you know the weight of his oil without asking first

[Desertbusman]

What a relief RC. I about had heart failure thinking that anyone would even attempt to start their engine or drive it with 20W-50 in the winter in Michigan. Wonder why Jody and I ever ASSumed 20W-50.
So this thread turned out cool. The OP had 2 topics and we discussed his 2 topics. And your great pictures possibly did help him.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[rcnotes]

I just went to NAPA (2 miles away) in my Honda and bought some no name 10w30. Didn't want to blow up the camper you know.

I'll drain my RP 20x50 (about $8 a quart) and change to the 10w30 when the outdoor temps get above freezing so I can drive my camper to NAPA to buy more RP when the weather get warmer. I know that it will be hard and cost me a lot more to buy two, maybe three different weights of oil, and costly especially if I use RP or Brad Penn, and send more oil to the recyclers, but only the best for my camper, cost is no object, you know. It's all I got going in my sad little life.

[rcnotes]

Thanks.... I've a fairly thick skin, so no worries

[rcnotes]

Hey, I passed 500 posts!

No applause please.



Please, you're too kind.

[Desertbusman]

[nathansnathan]

I have the dual pole vdo sender.

Initially I made the hole larger to fit it using aviation snips and a file. Some may be cringing (I would be) but I did a neat job of it, a snug fit in there. the problem with this is that you would have had to take the top tin off to get it out if there was a problem on account of the lip on the sender.

When I got my mallory distributor, I had to relocate it using the 'kit' from ac.net, I think. I use a modified ball joint boot as a grommet/seal for the tube to come through on as I'd made the hole slightly bigger, and it works well.

The sender itself I made a mounting bracket for. it is just a piece of flat steel, about 1 inch flat stock with a hole drilled through each end. Through one end goes the sender (held firm by washers - tapered threads, you know only go down so far) the other end is held by one of the top case half bolts. -better than a ziptie.

I've raised my idle to about 950 (hot) to keep the oil light from coming on when it's at temperature, which is pretty crappy. I'm working on raising oil pressure.