pull one of my rear wheels towards my body - have Movement

[nextgen]

Bug is up on blocks for the winter and time to time I spin my wheels and engine by hand. My drivers side rear wheel has movement when pulled to my body. I have the tools just wondering it is a for sure need to replace bearing or do you think it can be normal wear till I really need to replace the bearing !! Also I would think it is better to drop the bug and use its weight, then try to tighten it using the transmission in gear.
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[SGKent]

if it is a movement like the thickness of a credit card I would not worry about it. But if it is a movement the amount say of 4 or 5 cards together then something is goofy. It can be the bearing or a loose axle nut, or a worn spacer too, etc..
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Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
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[Dusty1]

Bought a junkyard Dasher for fifty bucks years ago, literally from a junkyard. The back story was the P.O. used it to tow his boat from Virginia up to Rhode Island. A wheel cylinder puked on the last trip. The brake fluid washed all the grease out of the wheel bearings. The driver's rear wheel did a clown car "woogedy, woogedy, woogedy" the whole length of New Jersey. It has so much slop when I got it the wheel was hitting the inner fender and wobbling out past the fender so far I could see it in the rear view.

The joy of driving beaters is seeing how bad it can get and still make it home.

I made a deal with the junkyard, give me an hour to take parts off an Audi Fox and I'll take the Dasher. Fifty bucks, right? Ever try to find '79 Dasher stub axles? Come to think of it they're probably exactly the same as Rabbit. The Audi was what I had to work with.

Most difficult part was getting the old brake drum off the VW. The bearings welded themselves to the stub axle. Stripped it down, replaced VW parts with Audi parts. It worked fine. That car was still knockin' around ten years and 100,000 miles later.


So, O.P.,

It's probably nothing.

Seriously, there are numerous sources of suspension slop on both ends of your VW. They generally don't improve all by themselves. But... your old VW may be doing exactly what it's been doing for the last twenty years.

Keep an eye on it. It will eventually let you know what's wrong.

.
.

[nextgen]

Thanks for the reply. Last time I test it was last year and all was find. Lucky if I put more then 1000 miles since then. Let me know if you see this link. Historical Podcast about me since 1967


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[nextgen]

Thanks for the reply. Last time I test it was last year and all was find. Lucky if I put more then 1000 miles since then.


https://letstalkdubs.libsyn.com/ep-200-joe-cali-ty...qI3xJTCzjs
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The TYPE IV UPRIGHT CONVERSION MANUAL
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[nextgen]

I did the Card Test and The King card worked, no need for the Queen
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[Lingwendil]

[frenchroast]

The passenger side on my 69 bug (IRS) has less than a credit card amount of axial play. This car has led an easy, well maintained life but it's possible the spacers were worn. On the last bearing and cv repack, I tried new empi spacers on that side but the axle would bind. So, I put the original spacers back in and don't worry about it. It's probably been that way for a long time. Put in new OEM quality bearings while I was at it.

For reference, I measured axial play with a dial indicator at .13mm and the spacers like below. Bearing width new and old only varied by .02mm. I assume the binding was something other than the total width of the spacers:

Spacer | Original | Empi
Inside | 10.06 | 10.13
Middle | 56.89 | 56.94
Outside | 12.03 | 11.93
Total | 78.98 | 79

[VW_Buggsy]

I'm in the camp of "don't sweat it".

It seems to me that even the "good" replacement parts these days are nowhere near as good as the OG parts. If an original part or assembly is functioning tolerably well, I generally leave it alone. This means unless there are noises or drivability issues I'm not messing with it. Worn in ≠ worn out.


If it were my newer Toyota it would be a different story.