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ZafLax22
Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2017
Posts: 10
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 Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2020 2:54 pm Post subject: My 66 13 Window Project |
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I thought I would share my bus that I bought late summer 2019. This will be my first project so it’s going to be a learning process. I didn’t do much to it yet other than taking the windows and bumper off. Its got some good things and some bad things going on.
The good:
• Rebuilt 1600cc engine from 1972 or 71. (The guy I bought it from said 72 but I thought that’s when they went to pancake).
• Was in Texas for the majority of its life so it doesn’t have the typical east coast rust
• Frame is very solid
• replacement parts thrown in (passenger dog leg, engine hatch)
• It had a bad driver side spindle, but I replaced that with a donor front axle
• The wheel wells were coated with some undercoating, very little rust under there.
The not so good:
• Front floor is swiss cheese
• Rust pretty much on the lower 2-9 inches all around
• A fair amount of bondo
• The previous previous owner had a corvair engine installed, so the engine shelves have been cut to fit.
Unfortunately, I won’t be doing any work on it for the next few months as I will be at school in a different state. If you guys have any tips for a first timer please let me know.
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ZafLax22
Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2017
Posts: 10
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| Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2020 6:23 pm Post subject: Re: My 66 13 Window Project |
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Forgot to add what my immediate plan is for this bus.
As of right now it rolls and steers fine, but the brakes are are not hooked up right now. I want to get the front brakes working, then the rear. From there it could go any direction. Let me know what you guys suggest! |
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gerry41
Samba Member
Joined: December 04, 2006
Posts: 158
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| Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2020 11:31 pm Post subject: Re: My 66 13 Window Project |
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| pls see my thread " the deluxe journey" it might help give you an idea. |
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LAGrunthaner 
Samba Member
Joined: March 18, 2007
Posts: 5576
Location: 1st Coast
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sgellis
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2016
Posts: 2166
Location: SW Nova Scotia, Canada
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ZafLax22
Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2017
Posts: 10
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| Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:04 am Post subject: Re: My 66 13 Window Project |
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| sgellis wrote: |
| What do you want out of this bus? Short term/long team |
Short term I would like to get all the internal parts working smoothly, brakes, new pedals, suspension, shift linkage, as well as some body work. It doesn’t have to be perfect, but I don’t want to cut corners.
Long term is more of the body work and fine details. Making it look pretty. I plan on keeping it as original as I can. I wanted to keep the paint original but it has been repainted in a few spots so I’m not sure about that yet.
I don’t want to get to ambitious and I’m going to take it one step at a time. |
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ZafLax22
Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2017
Posts: 10
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| Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 8:10 am Post subject: Re: My 66 13 Window Project |
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| gerry41 wrote: |
| pls see my thread " the deluxe journey" it might help give you an idea. |
Thank you for sharing that! I definitely will be referring to that in the future. |
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volkswagen60
Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2005
Posts: 329
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| Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 9:09 am Post subject: Re: My 66 13 Window Project |
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Great project! I have a 66 too that I just started working on. I have less windows and less trim than you 
I just removed all my brakes and I'm getting ready to install new. Make sure you see what you currently have installed before buying anything. It turned out that I had earlier brakes on mine.
Just a suggestion from experience, don't rush it and don't cut corners.
The link to my 66 thread is below if you want to see the wrong way to remove brakes
I'll be following as you go. Good luck! |
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ZafLax22
Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2017
Posts: 10
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| Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 10:32 am Post subject: Re: My 66 13 Window Project |
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| volkswagen60 wrote: |
Great project! I have a 66 too that I just started working on. I have less windows and less trim than you
I just removed all my brakes and I'm getting ready to install new. Make sure you see what you currently have installed before buying anything. It turned out that I had earlier brakes on mine.
Just a suggestion from experience, don't rush it and don't cut corners.
The link to my 66 thread is below if you want to see the wrong way to remove brakes
I'll be following as you go. Good luck! |
Thanks for the advice! I was able to get a look inside the drum when replacing the spindle. I only got a few parts ordered so far. I got a new master cylinder as my old one was not in good condition, I gotta go get a flare nut wrench to take the lines out of it. Other than that I got a new drag link because the other one was causing lots of play in the steering.
Thanks for the support! I’ll be following your project as well! |
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sgellis
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Joined: July 06, 2016
Posts: 2166
Location: SW Nova Scotia, Canada
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ZafLax22
Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2017
Posts: 10
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| Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 2:36 pm Post subject: Re: My 66 13 Window Project |
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| sgellis wrote: |
Everything mechanical should be inspected. Anything rubber should be replaced.
I suggest getting the shop manual. Will make things much easier. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0837616980
May find it cheaper somewhere or secondhand.
Will you be doing your own welding? Look at what metal work needs to be done before it can be driven and what can be left for later. Engine area needs repairing for proper engine cooling. May be a good place to start.
Overall your bus looks to be in nice condition. Well worth doing top quality metal repairs. Have a look through the build threads. Loads of good information https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=627245&start=0 |
Thank you for the advice!
I currently am in the process of replacing as much rubber as I can. I definitely will invest in the shop manual as well.
As for welding I am going to try to do as much welding as I can, but there is also a guy who does aircooled restorations like 15 minutes from my house. I will replace both engine shelves and the battery trays, as well as the drivers floor before even thinking about driving it. |
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gerry41
Samba Member
Joined: December 04, 2006
Posts: 158
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| Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 3:35 pm Post subject: Re: My 66 13 Window Project |
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| Yes deluxe but mines a walkthru. 4.5 yr project |
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Eric&Barb
Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 25793
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 3:48 pm Post subject: Re: My 66 13 Window Project |
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Think at this point you should give up on the original paint. Have the all the rust soda blasted, especially the underside. Then have it primed and painted an inexpensive grey for now. Then you can fix all the metal that needs to be replaced.
Rust does not sleep...
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ZafLax22
Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2017
Posts: 10
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| Posted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 9:56 am Post subject: Re: My 66 13 Window Project |
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| Eric&Barb wrote: |
Think at this point you should give up on the original paint. Have the all the rust soda blasted, especially the underside. Then have it primed and painted an inexpensive grey for now. Then you can fix all the metal that needs to be replaced.
Rust does not sleep... |
Thanks for the advice! I sort of realized that original paint would be a lost cause. I’ll look into the soda blasting |
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Eric&Barb
Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 25793
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 10:24 am Post subject: Re: My 66 13 Window Project |
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Glad to help. Only problem with using soda blasting is it does not remove the thickest rust. Then you will need to use sanding, wire wheeling, and acid to get out the rest.
Sand blasting will, but that all too often will warp panels if the operator uses too much air pressure. Big problem with sand blasting is that the sand gets into all sorts of places and does not just come right out. Then the sand will collect and moisture that condenses on the sheet metal will be held by the sand like a sponge causing rust to work its magic faster from the inside of frame members, drain areas, etc., out of sight till too late.
Soda will wash out of those areas, due to being soluble.
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ZafLax22
Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2017
Posts: 10
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| Posted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 10:01 am Post subject: Re: My 66 13 Window Project |
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| Little update: I replaced the drag link so now i can actually steer the bus. I took the old master cylinder out, but ended the entire line twisted with the nut. I had been spraying penetrating fluid on it for about a week prior, and tried just about everything to get them to not snap off. I bit the bullet and just cut them off, I figured I could either get new lines, I guess it would be smart either way. |
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Eric&Barb
Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 25793
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 10:22 am Post subject: Re: My 66 13 Window Project |
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| ZafLax22 wrote: |
| Little update: I replaced the drag link so now i can actually steer the bus. I took the old master cylinder out, but ended the entire line twisted with the nut. I had been spraying penetrating fluid on it for about a week prior, and tried just about everything to get them to not snap off. I bit the bullet and just cut them off, I figured I could either get new lines, I guess it would be smart either way. |
Best to replace the lines then. When you put in new lines, get the copper nickle or stainless steel ones, they do not corrode up anywhere near as bad. With any lines do use an anti-seize between the line and each nut, just back the nuts up the line and apply. Also use the anti-seize on the threads of the nuts. Using the anti-seize will make for all those parts coming apart many years later without being frozen up with corrosion like you had. Just make sure not to get that on the very tip of the line, that is where it seals and you do not want anti-seize inside the brake system.
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ZafLax22
Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2017
Posts: 10
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| Posted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 10:39 am Post subject: Re: My 66 13 Window Project |
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| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| ZafLax22 wrote: |
| Little update: I replaced the drag link so now i can actually steer the bus. I took the old master cylinder out, but ended the entire line twisted with the nut. I had been spraying penetrating fluid on it for about a week prior, and tried just about everything to get them to not snap off. I bit the bullet and just cut them off, I figured I could either get new lines, I guess it would be smart either way. |
Best to replace the lines then. When you put in new lines, get the copper nickle or stainless steel ones, they do not corrode up anywhere near as bad. With any lines do use an anti-seize between the line and each nut, just back the nuts up the line and apply. Also use the anti-seize on the threads of the nuts. Using the anti-seize will make for all those parts coming apart many years later without being frozen up with corrosion like you had. Just make sure not to get that on the very tip of the line, that is where it seals and you do not want anti-seize inside the brake system. |
Thanks for the tip! Should I replace all the lines! Or just the sections that go into the master? |
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Eric&Barb
Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 25793
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 10:59 am Post subject: Re: My 66 13 Window Project |
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| ZafLax22 wrote: |
[
Thanks for the tip! Should I replace all the lines! Or just the sections that go into the master? |
Replace them all. Problem with your standard brake fluid is it sucks water right out of the air, so even if those lines look nice on the outside, they are probably good and rusty inside. So if you do not replace them, you could have one blow out, due to up to 1,500 PSI that is produced by braking.
Hopefully you are upgrading to a dual circuit master cylinder. That way when a line or wheel cylinder blows out (and they will sooner or later), you will still have about half your braking power instead of none.
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Eric&Barb
Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 25793
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 11:09 am Post subject: Re: My 66 13 Window Project |
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We switched from DOT 3 to DOT 5 to avoid so much water in the brake fluid. Went from 18 to 24 month between needing to take all the brakes apart to inspect and clean out rust from the brake cylinders, and replace at least a few cylinders each time with DOT3, to eight years with DOT5. Even after eight years only needed to replace one wheel cylinder and install new rubber seals in the rest. That was eight years without doing anything, but making sure the reservoir was full. Now giving each wheel a quick bled each year to get out any water that might collect there being the lowest part of the brakes.
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