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Any info on installing new floor on 71 camper?
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Waikiki Boy
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 9:54 pm    Post subject: Any info on installing new floor on 71 camper? Reply with quote

I have a 71 camper and I want to install a new floor. The old floor was full of rot. I dont know how thick the sub base of the floor should be or any other details. please help
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Lionhart94010
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Using the And’s to narrow the search = Floor AND Camper AND 71 AND Wood

You get:
From abuspilot

My OG flooring (lino and 3 ply subfloor) measures 5/16 of an inch. Keep in mind it has probably absorbed moisture over time and is a little thicker than factory specs
Yes, the flooring goes under all interior peices.

The flooring is not glued, if I remember correctly there are some screws that hold the floor down. When the table is set up the leg has a catch in the floor with 3 screws in it, measuring about 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch. They do go through the cargo at least in my bus. One other spot I am thinking of is the aluminum retainer at the cargo doors. I am pretty sure the screws went through the floor there as well (5-7 screws I think?). Lastly, can't remember this one for sure but there is a metal strip to wrap the bottom edge of the drivers side long wood panel. Part of it either screws into the lino/wood flooring or it screws into the cargo floor under the lino/wood flooring. Guys??
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=101863&highlight=floor+camper++wood


An other post found by search above with good info :0)

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=49736&highlight=floor+camper++wood
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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i own a '71 westie and didn't even bother worrying about the floor height when i installed the pergo into my bus every thing fit perfectly and teh height was never an issue, i think as long as you don;t go to crazy with it ti should be fine, just remembber to end the flooring at the front of the westie bed in back i ran it completely under teh jump seat and the sink area and used a skill saw to cut out ports for the mounts of each jump seat and sink.


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=304065&highlight=wanderer
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busmania
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey izzardking, most of the pics in your thread dont come up anymore because they are in photobucket and have been deleted. ANy chance of updating them? I would also like to see the floor install as I will be doing this in the future. Thanks.
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baumer99
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have one suggestion, go with marine grade when installing a bus floor. I am new to samba forum posts, but always refer here first before I do anything. I have lots of photos, but unfortunately have not posted them yet. I hope to soon.

When I replaced my floor, I completly stripped the riveria cabinets, seats and flooring (the awful plywood and heavy fibreboard), ground out all rust and coated with undercoating for future rust protection. The floor was quite rusty due to leaky window seals. I also installed a layer of ashphat sound deadener.

When I reinstalled the floor, I put a (5/8"?) marine grade plywood subfloor, it's heavier, but no knots and can withstand some moisture. It is also about three times as expensive, if you can find it. I live on the coast in a boat manufacturing area. The subfloor and all other attachments were done with stainless steel hardware (screws, bolts etc.). The subfloor does fit nicely into the recess in the floor, but does not go all the way to the sliding door, if you want to keep the floor low and level.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I then installed prefinished teak flooring across the back and also inbetween the drivers seats (not continuous though because of the heat vents). I used a wider maple flooring panel to fit the wider space between the end of the teak/subfloor and the sliding door sill.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I have to say, it's been over two years and the flooring is still solid and looks great. The only riveria part I reused was the pull out seat. I also installed custom maple cabinetry, tables, new door and kick panels, seats, but that's a different post.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


One thing I did notice that was not expected, was the overall weight of the van was about the same, but the majority was redistributed to the floor with the heavier subfloor and teak flooring and lighter maple cabinets. Believe it or not the handling was improved with the shift in weight, a nice benefit.


Last edited by baumer99 on Mon Dec 29, 2008 12:43 pm; edited 1 time in total
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towd
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a reason, to not run the plywood under the bed ?
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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

towd wrote:
Is there a reason, to not run the plywood under the bed ?


that standard size plywood is fine under the bed but with the extra height of the pergo the bed won't lay flat on the steel bit over the engine compartment along with height probs with the other amenities in that area....
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towd
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm cutting my plywood now or just did, 4'x5'.

the interior I have with this Bus,, I think is a mix of west and Rivi and may end up only using the bed which the frame is welded angle iron to make the hinging part.

by have wood under the bed, it seem mounting anything would be easier, plus less holes in the steel floor ( leaks = rust )

for plywood, I'm using 3/4" MDO often used as cement forms or sign board .. It's very dense plywood and will hold screws quite well... maybe a bit on the heavy side, but this camper stuff has press board parts. Which are going away
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This a good thread also. I put measurements and photos of the subfloor in the thread.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=304597&highlight=
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natep73
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 6:17 pm    Post subject: front floor Reply with quote

baumer,
did you put the flooring in the front as well, I can kind of see it in one of the pics, do you have any pics of the front floor?

thanks
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hopeod
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2024 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

baumer99 wrote:
I have one suggestion, go with marine grade when installing a bus floor. I am new to samba forum posts, but always refer here first before I do anything. I have lots of photos, but unfortunately have not posted them yet. I hope to soon.

When I replaced my floor, I completly stripped the riveria cabinets, seats and flooring (the awful plywood and heavy fibreboard), ground out all rust and coated with undercoating for future rust protection. The floor was quite rusty due to leaky window seals. I also installed a layer of ashphat sound deadener.

When I reinstalled the floor, I put a (5/8"?) marine grade plywood subfloor, it's heavier, but no knots and can withstand some moisture. It is also about three times as expensive, if you can find it. I live on the coast in a boat manufacturing area. The subfloor and all other attachments were done with stainless steel hardware (screws, bolts etc.). The subfloor does fit nicely into the recess in the floor, but does not go all the way to the sliding door, if you want to keep the floor low and level.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I then installed prefinished teak flooring across the back and also inbetween the drivers seats (not continuous though because of the heat vents). I used a wider maple flooring panel to fit the wider space between the end of the teak/subfloor and the sliding door sill.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I have to say, it's been over two years and the flooring is still solid and looks great. The only riveria part I reused was the pull out seat. I also installed custom maple cabinetry, tables, new door and kick panels, seats, but that's a different post.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


One thing I did notice that was not expected, was the overall weight of the van was about the same, but the majority was redistributed to the floor with the heavier subfloor and teak flooring and lighter maple cabinets. Believe it or not the handling was improved with the shift in weight, a nice benefit.



Wow! I see you have posted a lot on here and have well documented many things about your bus. Any chance you made plans for this furniture layout? I need to make new stuff for my bus- i do have the old for templates but this is awesome/ a little different than stock
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