67bus dogleg rust repair how do I re-align door prior to welding

[tristanblue]

I am doing some rust repairs on my 67 hard top deluxe. It has some rust around some lower spots of the bus I wanted to repair. The bus is from South Carolina so fairly sound other then rust on floors and lower edges due to badly leaking windows.

I needed to replace the entire front floor, which I removed. As well as the lower A pillars and lower couple inches of the dog legs. The front door hinges are tight, the door gaps were great and the doors opened and shut perfectly.

I removed the entire front floor and decided to repair the A pillars and lower dog legs before install new WWest front floor. I first cut out the driver side a pillar and dog leg. Then welded the new panels in and it went great. Driver door opened and shut perfectly still during the entire process, removal and weld new panels in. Looks great and door shuts perfect with the same with good gaps.

Next I started the passenger side. I took pics, measurements and removed the lower dog leg. After I did that I noticed that the front passenger door now sags and shuts poorly. If I lift the back of the door while I shut, it will close. Obviously I have lost some structure removing that lower dog leg that is causing my pass door to sag. My question is when I am replacing the rusted lower dog leg on this side, how should I go about jigging or re-aligning the front door. Anyone have tips or tricks on how to jig, lift, push or pull on certain areas to get these parts back in alignment for welding ?

Thanks

[Mr Margaret Scratcher]

Can't help, but following as I've got to do similar - I'm hoping the answer is 'tack it in place with the door shut' as I'm in a similar position.

I seem to recall from other builds that outer dogleg goes in first, so that the gaps are all correct and then the inner can be jiggled around to fit.



Glideking's single cab resto as pretty informative, as I recall:


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7106716#7106716

The youtubr vids are worth watching, too:

Link

[pondoras box]

When you cut the dog leg your A pillar moved in and back. You’re going to need to weld in two support pieces to hold it in place again. It’s going to be tough trying do alone but it can be done. I made the same mistake but got it in place. Check my thread listed below if you want to see pics.

The drivers side I learned my lesson and welded in a lot of support BEFORE cutting it out.

If I had to do it from where you’re at right now I would weld in some turnbuckles to push the a piller back into place so I could adjust it and hold it in place to weld it. If it dropped down which I doubt but maybe just use your floor jack to raise it. But I think once you push the pillar forward and out the bottom will be the correct height.

Hope this helps, it is definitely a tedious repair to do.
_________________
Looking for anything from Hal Casey Motors out of Hamburg New York, from license plate surrounds to matchbooks.

1961 23 Window (Bobo)
1965 11 Window (Zelda). https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=563183
1965 13 Window (Lucas)
1957 Oval ragtop
1960 hardtop
1964 hardtop
1965 hardtop (Arschloch)
1973 standard bug (Dirty Gertie)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804912
1988 Cabriolet VR6 conversion

[Bobs67vwagen]

Or something you could try is putting a small scissor jack just inside where the outside piece will go maybe with a small wedge of wood on the curved side to straighten the angle. Jack it a little to see if it pushes it out enough to close the door . If so repeat until you are happy with the door alignment and tack in your dogleg. Good luck Bob

[tristanblue]

I worked on repairing that passenger A pillar today. Got that done.

So somewhat confused on which way people have been saying the A pillar has moved.

To clarify, when I go to shut the pass front door it is low at the back. Meaning it is almost hitting the dog leg at back corner. When I lift the door at the door handle it will shut normal. Like a beetle that has rotted out heater channels. Sags at the rear. Wouldn't that mean the bottom of the A pillar has moved away from the bus? Sounds like some are saying it moved IN and I need to push it back out. Just trying to clarify which way I should be trying to move what parts.

When I do shut the door the door gaps look great and the door is aligned properly. I wonder if just welding the lower dog leg in while the door is shut would work.

[Bobs67vwagen]

When you close the door now and the bottom hits, look at the gap at the upper right and top of the door and maybe get an idea as to what has to move which way. I guess you could close and latch it and then tack it and see what happens when you open the door. You can always grind the tack off and start over if the door drops back down when you open it.

[pondoras box]

When I said it moved in I meant toward the center of the bus. That’s why I suggested welding bracing in with a turnbuckle in it you can push and pull the A pillar using it and control your movement. Scissor jack or porta-power would work but it’s hard to get it to keep from slipping. Just closing the door is not a great idea because it’s still got pressure on the latch mechanism. Get your pillar aligned so the door does not bind at all when closing.
_________________
Looking for anything from Hal Casey Motors out of Hamburg New York, from license plate surrounds to matchbooks.

1961 23 Window (Bobo)
1965 11 Window (Zelda). https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=563183
1965 13 Window (Lucas)
1957 Oval ragtop
1960 hardtop
1964 hardtop
1965 hardtop (Arschloch)
1973 standard bug (Dirty Gertie)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=804912
1988 Cabriolet VR6 conversion

[tristanblue]

Just got home from work and decided to do some experimentation. So I took the floor jack and tried lifting the bus on different spots of the frame. I found that if I jacked the bus slightly up at the passenger side frame rail right at the front nose the passenger front door will open and shut perfectly.

Would it be ok to use a scissor jack up at that spot til the door shuts-aligns properly and then weld in that lower dog leg? Or would that be a bad idea?

Thanks

[Bobs67vwagen]

I think if you try tacking it in a couple of spots and the removing then jack to see if it changes that would be a good plan. If the door still hangs good then weld it further if not then you'll have to figure out what is shifting and how to stop it.