Throttle / Accelerator cable problem

[Herdfan75]

I removed the engine (1600 stock) from my 72 SB to fix some leaks and replace the firewall and engine bay rubber and firewall insulation. I installed all of the proper engine tin, removed the fuel filter from the engine bay and installed the flaps and rod for the thermostat. When I put the engine back in, the accelerator cable is too short. It was too long before. The proper cable rod is installed with a clamp behind the fan shroud to keep it from sliding out, and the cable housing that exits the tunnel slips into the end of the cable rod that extends about half an inch through the firewall tin. There seems to be a little extra slack in the cable housing but it's not supposed to slip through the firewall tin right? The cable is binding and won't let the throttle close all the way for idle. I'm thinking the rubber may be binding it but again, the flexible housing is slipped inside the rod so I'm stumped. I'm thinking I'll have to remove the air duct from the fan shroud and gas line from engine tin so I can slip it out (if I can get it out) so I can enlarge the hole so the flexible line can come through a little further and then shorten the rod that extends through the fan housing so I can take up the slack. Also I need to cut some of the rubber away from the firewall rubber (I can't get my hand up there far enough from under the car to cut it ). Any ideas?
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Isaiah 40:31 But they that wait upon the LORD shall renew their strength; they shall mount up with wings as eagles; they shall run, and not be weary; and they shall walk, and not faint.

[60ragtop]

did you check where the s hook feeds thru at the pedal? sometimes they slip there or where the bowden tubes exits the pan?
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Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986

[Herdfan75]

[Cusser]

I wonder if the accelerator cable flex tube got wound around the clutch cable or something. Should not have to remove engine to check this out, I'd pull the accelerator cable forward from underneath and route it straight.

I promise that the cable did NOT shrink !
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Herdfan75]

[Cusser]

Just for the record: Flex cable should mate up with the hole in the front tin and then accelerator cable through the throttle tube to the carb.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Herdfan75]

[sb001]

[Herdfan75]

[air-h2o-air]

did you notch the firewall rubber seal for the throttle cable to fit between the ends of the firewall rubber seal? Notice in the body a stop in the channel for attaching the rubber?

[Herdfan75]

[Tim Donahoe]

I had the same issue when I replaced the firewall seal.

I ended up reaching up (from under the car) and cutting a "V" into the firewall rubber. This allowed the accelerator tube to seat onto the tube that goes through the fan shroud.

I used a combination of a sharp razor knife and needle nose pliers to cut and pull away the rubber seal.

It's not easy, but it's doable.

When finished, I had my normal accelerator end I needed to slip through the accelerator-arm barrel for proper adjusting.

Tim
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Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[Herdfan75]

[Yehan73]

Just like everyone has said. It's the connection between the engine tin and the firewall. The guide tube needs to seat into the hard line. If this is not happening, you have the exact condition you described.

[Herdfan75]

[Tim Donahoe]

If I remember correctly, it seems like there was a bell-shaped end on the accelerator tube that engages the fan-shroud tube. The bell kind of fits over the shroud tube.

While you're fooling with the whole thing, check to see that your pedal pivot barrel is inside the pedal sled-guide. If not, that can cause other issues that you won't want to have to mess with after you get that rubber cut away.

I hope when others who are installing a new firewall seal, see this thread, they'll cut the notch for the accelerator tube before re-installing the engine. It's certainly a lot easier than doing so after the engine is in.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[Herdfan75]

[pwmcguire]

Another issue could be. if you changed the accelerator cable tube that goes through the fan shroud and its a bit longer than the original. Does your tube go through the fire wall tin or on top of it?

[Yehan73]

more like 1/2". I'm going by memory here, it's been a few years. Also make sure you have a anti back out clamp on the hard line exiting through the bank of the tin.
If you send us some photos of the area we can tell what's wrong.

[Herdfan75]