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snowesty Samba Member

Joined: September 06, 2005 Posts: 189 Location: Nelson, BC
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Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 4:22 pm Post subject: Weird power lock issue |
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My van seems to want to stay locked. Maybe it's scared or something.
When I unlock a door, the knob goes up, only on that door, and then immediately locks itself again. If I open the door fast I can get in, but the power lock keep cycling (click......click.....click) trying to relock it. If I hop in and close the door, it immediately re-locks and stays that way. The only way to unlock all the doors is to pull up the two front door locks at the same time. (not sure what prompted me to try that one...)
Any ideas? _________________ Fritz - '86 Syncro Tintop, Camper interior
Toaster - '91 Multivan Westy, 4sp. |
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Dingchowping Samba Member

Joined: March 31, 2009 Posts: 134 Location: Seattle, WA.
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Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 4:26 pm Post subject: |
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http://gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=314 _________________ TTFN,
Adam
"For once you have tasted flight,
You walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward;
For there you have been,
And there you long to return."
-Leonardo da Vinci |
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powderedwaters Samba Member

Joined: November 11, 2009 Posts: 117 Location: Victoria, BC
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snowesty Samba Member

Joined: September 06, 2005 Posts: 189 Location: Nelson, BC
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Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 8:46 pm Post subject: |
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Ding, thanks for the gowesty link. Guess I need to look for an actuator now... _________________ Fritz - '86 Syncro Tintop, Camper interior
Toaster - '91 Multivan Westy, 4sp. |
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IrideWheelies Samba Member

Joined: July 09, 2009 Posts: 386 Location: Olympia, WA
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Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 12:35 am Post subject: |
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when this was happening to me it turned out to be a broken wire. It was the white one.
In my case it was broken near where the wire entered the cab from the door, right by the fuse box on the drivers side.
there are only a few wires in the power lock system - don't get discouraged! _________________ 89' Dove Blue Syncro Hightop |
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Dingchowping Samba Member

Joined: March 31, 2009 Posts: 134 Location: Seattle, WA.
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Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 3:45 pm Post subject: |
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| IrideWheelies wrote: |
when this was happening to me it turned out to be a broken wire. It was the white one.
In my case it was broken near where the wire entered the cab from the door, right by the fuse box on the drivers side.
there are only a few wires in the power lock system - don't get discouraged! |
Broken wires in the door jambs are very common on vehicles this age. Its the only place where the wires move and flex on a regular basis...its also one of the most inconvenient places to work!
In one of their rare moments of brilliance, the VW engineers actually got it right on the MK III Golf/Jetta. They installed a twist lock multi pin connector on the pillars for the door harnesses (complete with vacuum connection for the door lock), so when the wires inevitably broke it was a simple matter to remove the harness completely and either repair the offending wires on the work bench where there's plenty of room to do a quality job, or just replace the harness with a new one. Then the MK IV came out and they apparently forgot their brilliant idea. *sigh* _________________ TTFN,
Adam
"For once you have tasted flight,
You walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward;
For there you have been,
And there you long to return."
-Leonardo da Vinci |
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VwMomofthree Samba Member

Joined: November 15, 2006 Posts: 195 Location: Colorado
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Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 4:38 pm Post subject: Image |
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Wow, you gave me such a laugh with the image of you trying to get in the car. LOLOLOLOL  |
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koolmoe Samba Member

Joined: November 15, 2008 Posts: 382 Location: Annapolis, MD
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Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 8:21 pm Post subject: |
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| snowesty wrote: |
| Ding, thanks for the gowesty link. Guess I need to look for an actuator now... |
From all I've read, I would definitely look at the wires first before buying a new actuator.
My passenger side door locks/unlocks all doors automatically with the key.
My driver door keyhole only affects that one door.
Not sure about the slider.
Inconvenient but not too bad, and definitely better than a Westy that just wants to stay locked...or worse, unlocked!
Slicing open the drivers boot and likely replacing those wires is a bit down on my ToDo list...
KM _________________ --
Current: 1990 Westy GL (Savannah. Good to be back!)
from '95 til 2008: 1995 Pathfinder (frame rusted out, charitable parts donation)
from '91-'95: 1982 Westy Diesel (Smokey. Traded in for far too little!)
from '87-'91: 1980 VW Rabbit (my econoPorsche - passed on) |
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snowesty Samba Member

Joined: September 06, 2005 Posts: 189 Location: Nelson, BC
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Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 8:54 pm Post subject: Re: Image |
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| VwMomofthree wrote: |
Wow, you gave me such a laugh with the image of you trying to get in the car. LOLOLOLOL  |
yes, yes... It's quite amusing. If only it wasn't starting to become a bit irritating. I suppose I should start with going through all the wiring. Sigh, more for the to-do list...
But I suppose that is sort of the point. If Toaster was ever finished, then what would I do? _________________ Fritz - '86 Syncro Tintop, Camper interior
Toaster - '91 Multivan Westy, 4sp. |
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syncrodoka Samba Member

Joined: December 27, 2005 Posts: 12406 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 10:06 pm Post subject: |
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| You can always take apart the actuator and try to clean up all the contacts with naval jelley before spending money on replacements. The actuators in a eurovan are will work if you swap out the connector- if you go the junkyard route for a replacement. You can always disconnect the actuators and go with the key until you get time to fix it. Good luck. |
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MIKEL67 Samba Member

Joined: January 19, 2010 Posts: 2 Location: MOUNT EPHRAIM NJ
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Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 8:23 pm Post subject: I hear ya |
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| My 90 Carat seems to have the exact opposite problem. When I lock a door from the inside they magically unlock, and when I use the key from outside they both go down in the lock position then again like magic they unlock. Just bought the vanagon 2 weeks ago and havent read any of the other threads. It sounds like a simple problem to resolve if/when i take the time to track down the problem. |
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Californio Samba Member

Joined: May 17, 2007 Posts: 1357
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Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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In some cases the actuators can be saved. What I did is blew in various cleaners through the holes (carb cleaner, starter fluid, etc.) to get whatever corrosion and crap on the inside off, then blew out with compressed air, then sprayed in some WD-40.
Once I verified that they were working, I also repaired the rubber boots with silicon.
One year later, no problems... |
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davideric9 Samba Member
Joined: January 21, 2009 Posts: 1015 Location: Oakland CA
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Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 9:57 pm Post subject: |
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I had broken wire for the door speaker. I unplugged all the wires and pulled the rubber boot out of the van as well as the wires (still hanging on the door) and made the repair thus saving the rubber boot.
If you have one bad front door lock actuator (or broken wire) then you get the cycling problem because they "talk" to each other. Unplugging the working one will stop the cycling. _________________ 1987 Syncro Westfalia, stock (bought 1994)
1986 Syncro Westfalia SVX, 3 knob (bought 2008)
1987 Westfalia (bought 2010)
1988 Wolfsburg GL (bought 2012) |
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ourv12 Samba Member
Joined: November 30, 2006 Posts: 492 Location: Great SouthWest Michigan
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Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 2:37 pm Post subject: |
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| Yep yep yep..... I had the same issues with my power locks. I thought I needed a new actuator. Turned out to be broken wires inside the rubber boot covering all the wires running to the door near the hinge. It was a pain to repair them but now my power locks work like new again!!! |
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