Cannot Time My '65 Bug

[PWS]

I've timed my '65 Bug countless times, but this time my test light will never light, even through multiple revolutions (with the key ON, of course). Point gap has been set properly at .016". I have confirmed "juice" at the coil. The condenser checks out using John Muir's suggested procedure. The bulb of the timing light is good. Points are new. The car has set idle for about 4 years, and during that time period I redid all the wiring. But I don't see how that would contribute to my problem. John Muir does mention the possibility of a short in the distributor, but I don't know how to go about that possibility. I'm baffled and don't know how to proceed, aside from taking it all apart and reassembling.
Attaching photo below.

[zerotofifty]

[Big Bill]

zerotofifty thank you for the colored wiring diagram. Will be using it soon.

[PWS]

Tomorrow I'll investigate that possible short. Here are my coil connections:

[zerotofifty]

OK, the coil appears wired ok, with the single green wire to the distributor. Clip on lead of your test lamp to the terminal on the coil, other end of the test lamp to the engine case for ground

Beware that the wire to the key switch is NOT fused. so if you create a short on that wire you can melt that wire, along with any wires that are adjacent to it in close contact. That melting can go all the back to the wire harness, melting a lot of wires together. So make sure you have no risk of shorting that wire (nor the electric choke wire)
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Sorry About That Chief.

Give Peace a Chance.

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[ashman40]

In your pics it appears the green wire from the points turns into a black wire coming out from the distributor??

There is a green(?) wire at the left of the pic but it appears to be a much lighter green/blue color? This could all be lighting changes causing the wires to appear as a different color. Please confirm the points wire is the single green wire connected to the #1 (-) terminal on the ignition coil.
If the points wire is mistakenly connected to the #15 (+) terminal of the ignition coil it creates a direct short to ground when closed and will melt the #15 ignition wire..


The points are a simple ON/OFF contact switch. When the contacts are closed the green points wire is grounded. When the point contacts open the ground circuit is OPEN.
Disconnect the points wire at the ignition coil and place your test lamp between the end of the points wire and the #15 (+) terminal of the ignition coil. This will give the test lamp a power source and the points will be the switch for ground. Rotate the crank pulley until the points are CLOSED. Turn the ignition switch ON. The test lamp should turn ON as it now has 12v power and a path to ground. With a plastic spoon or wood stick, push the point arm to OPEN the contacts. The test lamp should turn OFF as the path to ground has been disrupted. If this doesn't happen it means the point wire is shorted to ground somewhere other than the point contacts. Check if the condenser is this path by disconnecting it from ground or disconnecting it from the points. Retest and see if now the points opening turned the lamp OFF. If not, you may need to replace the points or look for a short in the points wire.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Dougy Dee]

Sat for 4 years???
You didn't mention it but, running a points file thru the points contacts to clean may help.

[ppilotmike]

does the test light work? The test light should be on with the points closed so the light can be tested to the distributor body any where when the points open they remove the ground and turn off the light which is what you look for to set the timing. Good luck I'm sure you will figure it out

[PWS]

Reporting back, everything now working beautifully. Taking zerotofifty's advice, I slightly bent the end of the wire from the condenser away from the body of the distributor. I don't think it was touching, but it was awfully close. I then followed the procedure that ashman40 suggested in the last paragraph of his post, and the test light did exactly what it was supposed to. I also rechecked the condenser: points fully open, disconnect green wire at coil #1, connect test light leads to coil #1 and end connector of green wire, key ON, timing light remains off, indicating presumably a good condenser. Thanks for all your help and suggestions.

[tasb]

If the wire from the distributor is black consider amending that as the power wire to the coil from the ignition switch should also be black which could cause confusion. I do see a green wire at the coil. Also it appears that your coil is reversed from original in its bracket.
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Roads Scholar
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

Member# 2059

[PWS]

The wire from coil #1 to distributor is uniformly green. Part of the wire does appear somewhat darker in the photo, but that's simply a lighting issue. I'm not sure what you mean about the coil appearing reversed from original in its bracket. My Bentley manual shows the coil mounted as I have positioned it. Are you suggesting that I need to rotate it somewhat? '65 Bug Sedan.

[tasb]

Actually I am wrong. The #1 coil terminal is closer to the carburetor in 1965.
_________________
Roads Scholar
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

Member# 2059