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Performance Chassis for T1
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Plipton
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 1:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

BuggyT4 wrote:
You are probably right, as the wheels are not rubbing against anything, even at full lock.

Why do I seem to be the only guy experiencing this issue? What could be different on my Manxter?


Have you got exessive rear toe in? if you're turning hard then rear toe in would make the rear turn in with the front and extend your turning circle. Kind of like rear steering but working against the front.

Otherwise check here (and others similar)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turning_radius

A line drawn at 90 degrees from each of the front wheels at full lock should meet (more or less) at point M on the diagram. It will let you measure the theoretical turning circle which is outer edge of the outer wheel to point M X2 (for measurement "between kerbs" - 2nd diagram). If the actual turning circle is much bigger there's another problem, such as rear toe. Also check the turning circle is the same both left and right, just in case the car is crabbing slightly.
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Tom_Kathleen
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 1:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

Our turning radius is also "large", we have to do some "K" turns at times. It is annoying after driving a 80" wheelbase buggy, but to get the ride quality, it is worth it. Tom
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BuggyT4
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 1:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

Tom_Kathleen wrote:
Our turning radius is also "large", we have to do some "K" turns at times. It is annoying after driving a 80" wheelbase buggy, but to get the ride quality, it is worth it. Tom


What do you mean by "large"? How many lanes do you need to make a U-turn?
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Tom_Kathleen
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 2:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

Sorry, I don't have a real number of the turning radius for you. Tom
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 6:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

I would move the tie rod hole. but do some checken first like where the akerman intersects, rear steer cars should be eazy to get perfect but perfect dosent always work out. Wink I would give up some ratio to have a better raidi and not have the tie rod end agnist the upper arm at full turn. I dont know the answer but Im gladd you brought it up. if it takes that much to turn how is anybody swallum racing them??get the rear to breakloose? Ive not yet decided on the system Ill use on my 356.
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BuggyT4
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 11:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

Think long and hard before you decide what you put on your 356, Mark: both spindles on my Mendeola front-end broke, and I had never raced or tracked the Manxter; I had not even driven it hard. We had to do a lot of welding to reinforce those spindles. A workshop owner who has been around cars and VWs for over 30 years told me that the way they are designed, he was not surprised that they broke.
BTW, unless memory fails me, I remember that in another discussion, Tom mentioned that he had to deal with "some issues" in the early days after installing his Mendeola from-end. I wonder what those issues were?
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Plipton
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 12:38 am    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

In Europe we have to use stock spindles unless we pay for the Mendeola ones to be destruction tested (VERY expensive as they want several sets and they do many, many tests) otherwise we will not get a certificate of roadworthiness (MoT, TUV, WoF, depending on your country). It can take months or even years to get approval.

It means the ride height is compromised slightly but can be adjusted down again, although that has other effects. Dropped spindles would be too low, unfortunately.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 8:28 am    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

I wasent real impressed with the medeola parts(front&rear) i held in my hand. I doubt I would be going that way. but issues need to be addressed and a solution found for all.
when your arc is at or past center of the pulling point all your doing is trying to pull things appart, not steering. Ive seen dead racks due to issues like that. and guys that fight bump steer when it's realitively eazy, but outside box thinking & building is required. the old the tie rods have to be "this length "just isant true.longer is better. the akerman needs to be close, but can be off somewhat.some are way off and the people just dont get it because you "cant see it" well you can see it if you open your eyes. rear steer cars are usuely not a issue because it's eazy to set up right, front steer cars are almost never right but they still work.some are so effing far off it's amazing they can be driven.. as for my 356 Im in limbo,arm or strut...this or that. along with somany other things that have to be done to it before it is ever driven. Ive been driving my daughters kia forte 5door hatchback a little since she is no longer needing a car (working in dc and doing masters in dc&italy)and we are selling it for her, that sucker drives like a sweet gocart and it;s not a tiny car.it's got a nice set up under it Ive been looking at a little and thinking. Ideas come from everywhere.
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coolrydes
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 12:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

BuggyT4 wrote:
Plipton wrote:
BuggyT4 wrote:
Do you think that rims with a different ET could improve things?


I wouldn't think so. Steering is controlled by the amount of angle the wheels are able to turn through. Different offsets would make no real difference unless the problem was the wheels rubbing on something at full lock, in which case they could be changed to allow more anglular movement. I don't think that's your issue.


You are probably right, as the wheels are not rubbing against anything, even at full lock.

Why do I seem to be the only guy experiencing this issue? What could be different on my Manxter?


Sorry to have just entered this conversation, however we have been super busy at the shop and I just received a message to head over here and check out the conversation.

So yes Buggy T-4 your wheels are going to greatly affect your turning circle as our front suspensions were designed around the use of a +55 mm offset on a 17 x 7 wheel. If i recall correctly the wheels you are running are far off from that and we strongly recommended not using those wheels. So start off with the correct wheels and I'm sure you will see an improvement.
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coolrydes
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 12:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

BuggyT4 wrote:
Think long and hard before you decide what you put on your 356, Mark: both spindles on my Mendeola front-end broke, and I had never raced or tracked the Manxter; I had not even driven it hard. We had to do a lot of welding to reinforce those spindles. A workshop owner who has been around cars and VWs for over 30 years told me that the way they are designed, he was not surprised that they broke.
BTW, unless memory fails me, I remember that in another discussion, Tom mentioned that he had to deal with "some issues" in the early days after installing his Mendeola from-end. I wonder what those issues were?


Hello, Buggy T-4
We have never heard from you about any issues with your spindles. It is always good to contact the manufacture first when an issue comes up.
As far as the problem, do you have any pictures you can supply us via email so we can see what happened?
We did have a slight problem with Tom & Kathleen's spindles where part of it bent and begun to tear a weld. They never came apart (as to break) which lead to a re-working and some improvements to correct the issue.
So if you can forward anything you might have on the failure and repairs you had made, we would be glad to help permanently correct the issue and possibly re-inverse you for any cost you incurred. It is not our intention to ever manufacture anything that will fail under normal use or to turn our backs on our loyal customers. We are all human and can fail at times, it is what we do to correct it that makes a difference.
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COOLRYDES So-Cal CUSTOMS
MENDEOLA SUSPENSION
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www.CoolRydescustoms.com
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coolrydes
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 12:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
I wasent real impressed with the medeola parts(front&rear) i held in my hand. I doubt I would be going that way. but issues need to be addressed and a solution found for all.
when your arc is at or past center of the pulling point all your doing is trying to pull things appart, not steering. Ive seen dead racks due to issues like that. and guys that fight bump steer when it's realitively eazy, but outside box thinking & building is required. the old the tie rods have to be "this length "just isant true.longer is better. the akerman needs to be close, but can be off somewhat.some are way off and the people just dont get it because you "cant see it" well you can see it if you open your eyes. rear steer cars are usuely not a issue because it's eazy to set up right, front steer cars are almost never right but they still work.some are so effing far off it's amazing they can be driven.. as for my 356 Im in limbo,arm or strut...this or that. along with somany other things that have to be done to it before it is ever driven. Ive been driving my daughters kia forte 5door hatchback a little since she is no longer needing a car (working in dc and doing masters in dc&italy)and we are selling it for her, that sucker drives like a sweet gocart and it;s not a tiny car.it's got a nice set up under it Ive been looking at a little and thinking. Ideas come from everywhere.


Mark Tucker,
I do not recall ever meeting you, however that does not matter. We do meet a lot of people at shows and at the shop. We have had tremendous amounts of good reviews about our products from many people that have the same type of back ground as you. You seem to know a lot of the terms and details of how suspension works. Have you ever attempted or had success at designing or producing one? If so where can I find some of your work?

At any rate please contact us, I would love to take you out in our shop 356 speedster with over 300hp and show you how it handles around the turns, not to mention how a quick blip of the throttle will allow for a "pitch and catch" set up for a turn. ( "pitch and catch" is a term road racers like myself use when we are referring to breaking the rear loose to throttle steer the car.)
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COOLRYDES So-Cal CUSTOMS
MENDEOLA SUSPENSION
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www.CoolRydescustoms.com
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BuggyT4
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 10:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

Hi Coolrydes,

Good to read from you again, and to know that you intend to address this issue. Thank you for your kind offer to reimburse the costs I had in trying to repair the spindles (the repairs have not held long-term: see lower).
I agree with you: errors are always possible, it is how they try to correct them that differentiates good and responsible suppliers from the bad ones.
I have just been advised by the guy working on my buggy that the spindles have cracked again. Here are some photos that he just sent in.
I look forward to hearing from you further.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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coolrydes
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 10:24 am    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

BuggyT4 wrote:
Hi Coolrydes,

Good to read from you again, and to know that you intend to address this issue. Thank you for your kind offer to reimburse the costs I had in trying to repair the spindles (the repairs have not held long-term: see lower).
I agree with you: errors are always possible, it is how they try to correct them that differentiates good and responsible suppliers from the bad ones.
I have just been advised by the guy working on my buggy that the spindles have cracked again. Here are some photos that he just sent in.
I look forward to hearing from you further.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


BuggyT4,

Please do NOT DO ANY MORE WORK to these. Send them back so I can get them in front of our engineer and see what is happening. We will cover all the cost for shipping so please send pictures of any cost you have to put out. Please email me directly as I'm sure there will be a few questions that both myself and the engineer will have. We need to get them back and fully strip what ever coating is on them, then we can inspect them fully to find the cause of failure. We have not had any fail like this, in fact the only failure we've seen was Tom & Kathleen's and they simply bent by the upper ball joint which led to a thicker and stronger material being used in that area. Yours is the second set we have ever seen fail.

My direct email is [email protected]
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MENDEOLA SUSPENSION
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BuggyT4
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 9:51 am    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

Coolrydes,

I sent you an e-mail with an address where you can ship the replacement spindles. We'll send you the cracked ones as soon as we have received the new ones. Please send them ASAP. Thanks!
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coolrydes
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 1:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

Hello, Buggy T4

I am currently in the middle of a production run of spindles and am currently out of stock. I need you to send yours back so I can have them checked out completely. I do not want to send another set of spindles that might fail. We need to understand why yours failed first. We will need details on the type of roads the vehicle was driven on, what size wheels and tires. We will need to know wheel diameter and wheel offset. We also need to know if there were additional adapters used to mount the wheels and the size of those.

Please understand the following details:
1) Mendeola no longer owns or manufactures these front end. I have always controlled the building of these since day one, however when yours was sold to you it was by Mendeola, not CoolRydes Customs. I am trying to take care of you as a good business dealing.

2) Without knowing exactly why these failed not once, but twice. According to you the spindles were not only repaired, but also re-enforced. This worries me and I take your safety very seriously. Therefore until we receive your spindles and figure out why they failed, I will not send out replacements. We have only had two sets of spindles fail. When the first ones failed we made a couple of material changes for improve the strength in the area of failure. This was done by Mendeola.
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coolrydes
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 5:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

Buggy T4 (Thierry)

After careful examination of the pictures you have posted here. I can tell the wheels and tires that are currently on the car are the ones that we (Mendeola Suspension) explained to you back in 2013 were the wrong wheels for the car. The offset, wheel and tire size are completely wrong for the suspension as we explained before. This will cause your turning circle to be too large and can also cause additional stress on the spindles.

We still would like to see your spindles for full inspection, and will do what we can to help correct the problem.
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BuggyT4
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2017 2:52 am    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

...

Last edited by BuggyT4 on Wed Jun 28, 2017 2:55 am; edited 2 times in total
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BuggyT4
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2017 2:53 am    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

Hi Kevin,

As advised to you in my e-mail, the car has been driven less than 1,500 miles since it received its suspension, on city streets and on good roads; it has not been driven hard.
You might be getting mixed with another project? It was in 2012, not 2013. I have all of our correspondence from that time: the issue with the wheels did not concern suspension; it was not their offset, nor the size of the tires. The issue was brakes: if you will remember, I wanted to use Porsche brakes, while the original rims had a dual GM 5 and Ford 5 pattern. You advised that it was not possible to drill additional holes for a Porsche pattern, so we decided to install replica Fuchs wheels (with a Porsche pattern). We discussed offset, ET, backspace, spacers, etc. for the look and for the fit, not for suspension and/or steering.
I am keen (and readers of The Samba will be keen as well) to have your input and advice on what a good set-up is for a street Manxter with a Mendeola suspension. You have built numerous Manxters with your suspension, so you know what works. What is your recommendation?
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coolrydes
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2017 10:07 am    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

Mendeola Manxters were always built with 17x7 front wheels with a +45-55mm Offset. The replica Fuchs that were put on your car as rollers are a +42mm offset (good enough to work and be safe) The wheels that are currently on your vehicle are zero or worse. This causes the suspension geometry to be off. The first and most noticeable issue will be turning circle and under steering (pushing, or not turning well). Then increased stress on the suspension itself.

Mendeola Suspension has been engineered to use modern day wheel off sets to increase handling, therefore normal VW beam offsets and wheel sizes will not work properly.

As for the spindles, the sooner you can get yours to us, I will personally have them stripped and inspected to figure out why they failed. Then we can address replacement spindles. We are getting ready to release a part that will allow the use of stock VW spindles.
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COOLRYDES So-Cal CUSTOMS
MENDEOLA SUSPENSION
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www.CoolRydescustoms.com
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Plipton
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2017 11:05 am    Post subject: Re: Performance Chassis for T1 Reply with quote

coolrydes wrote:
We are getting ready to release a part that will allow the use of stock VW spindles.


This is great news for those of us outside of the USA. Do they change the ride height at all? I have a pair of camber adjusters from Halbug and they are great, but the ride height is 30mm higher than with Coolrydes/Mendeola spindles.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Ignore the wheels - they are the winter tyres for my daily driver and don't fit under the arches (8 x 18 ET42 with 225s on)
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