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'85 Westy Auto slips in 3rd gear
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gardner120
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 9:57 am    Post subject: '85 Westy Auto slips in 3rd gear Reply with quote

1st, second and reverse work fine. When it shifts to third it just revs up. Confirmed correct fluid level, no trans fluid in final. If it is rebuild time, what parts and where is the best source? I also have an '80 with a manual I could swap, but I do like the lazyness of the no shifting. And it would be quite a bit of work. I figure if I'm going to be slow cruising I might as well do it in style. Thanks.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 10:07 am    Post subject: Re: '85 Westy Auto slips in 3rd gear Reply with quote

gardner120 wrote:
1st, second and reverse work fine. When it shifts to third it just revs up. Confirmed correct fluid level, no trans fluid in final. If it is rebuild time, what parts and where is the best source? I also have an '80 with a manual I could swap, but I do like the lazyness of the no shifting. And it would be quite a bit of work. I figure if I'm going to be slow cruising I might as well do it in style. Thanks.


German Transaxle is right down the road from you, why don't you give them a call.
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gardner120
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 10:15 am    Post subject: Re: '85 Westy Auto slips in 3rd gear Reply with quote

German Transaxle is right down the road from you, why don't you give them a call.[/quote]

I'm at a point I need to attempt it myself. Work has been slow, otherwise I would have dropped it off to them. I hear they are one of the best. If they sell parts and the price is the same as other suppliers I'd love to shop local.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A call will provide you with information as to what is wrong with your unit, probably much more accurate info than you could get here. I have bought some parts from them so I would think that they would sell you what you need. I have only rebuilt an 003, but parts were very cheap at a Portland jobber for that.
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gardner120
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. I'll give them a call.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is not intended to be a "Use the Search" function. I had been watching this thread and doubt you would have been able to find it. Very good documentation of what you have ahead. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=320292
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the link. The step by step w/ pics will be really helpful for the rebuild. I'll try to do the same with pics and step by step also. Thanks again
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r39o
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I read somewhere in a post recently that you might just need an (external?) adjustment.

You will need to "Use the Search," though.

It could be something really simple that may not require all that much. But, I don't know. There are several automatic posts to review, though.

Best of Luck....
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

2nd gear brake band is the only externally adjustable gear. You can verify if the accel cable/ linkage is adjusted properly. This is a stretch, but it might be possible that the linkage is over adjusted and you are partially into the kickdown position. I would think that would have an affect on all shifts though.
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gardner120
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The issue started as a small slip at low speeds under light throttle. Then one day on the road it justed slipped constantly. From what I understand the second gear braking band is for second gear. Most of the issues I have been able to find are dealing with a no shift situation. Mine is trying to shift but it just winds up the RPM's like a bad manual clutch.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, 2nd gear brake band is for second gear only. You can expect to replace all of the seals and apply pistons along with new fibers. I think the overhaul kits come with new "steels" as well. If yours has been slipping, but steels are probably "blue" by now. I was pointing out that only 2nd gear was adjustable externally. I try to consider others who might come across this thread in the future. Someone above had mentioned an external adjustment and I was clarifying that your slipping 3rd gear could not be externally adjusted as suggested only 2nd.

It is probably too late now, but some have had success changing to Type F transmission fluid.
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Last edited by MarkWard on Wed Mar 10, 2010 2:28 pm; edited 1 time in total
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r39o
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well if fresh fluid and correct external adjustment don't do it, then maybe it is time for some surgery.

In a Jetta we just dropped the automatic half out once and did and overhaul. Maybe you can do the same with a Vanagon?

I am personally afraid to take that thing apart. Hence, I am having my spare overhauled before you can not get all the parts. Then my current basically good one, will be stored for the future, when the fresh engine goes in.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes indeed, it is time for surgery. If R,1,2 work and only 3 is out then your direct/reverse clutch pack (the inner most) needs attention. Generally, crispy cracked missing segments in the seals.

Good Luck
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geez,

But no hard parts right?

-W
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Usually just seals and friction plates. I like to replace bushings to tighten things up and sometimes thrust washers if the fit is too sloppy and pump rings. I always piggy back the torque converter seal with another one. That's about it. Parts should be less than $200.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks to all of you for the great response. I truly appreciate it.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GeeZ12 wrote:
Usually just seals and friction plates. I like to replace bushings to tighten things up and sometimes thrust washers if the fit is too sloppy and pump rings.


Where do you source your AT parts? I want to do an AT rebuild this summer (for fun).

GeeZ12 wrote:
I always piggy back the torque converter seal with another one.

Really? You just jam two seals in there? I've never heard of that. There's certainly room to stack two seals. What's the advantage of this?
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GeeZ12
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I get my parts where ever I can and sometimes the dealer. Here are 3 links:

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com
http://www.germansupply.com
http://www.altousa.com/

Use your search engines - there are a lot of sources.

As far as the piggy back the torque converter seals go; almost all the autos will leak at the torque converter seal especially when the groove develops in the corresponding torque converter sealing surface. Add to that, the engine conversions crank up the rpm and pressures from the oil pump. By piggy backing the seal you are creating a sort of labyrinth seal to reduce the load on one seal by sealing at 2 points on the torque converter instead of one and hopefully moving the outermost sealing surface away from the "seal groove".

I hope this helps.

Gary
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r39o
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gary, you are smart, we shall keep you.
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samuelvincentvella
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GeeZ12 wrote:
I get my parts where ever I can and sometimes the dealer. Here are 3 links:

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com
http://www.germansupply.com
http://www.altousa.com/

Use your search engines - there are a lot of sources.

As far as the piggy back the torque converter seals go; almost all the autos will leak at the torque converter seal especially when the groove develops in the corresponding torque converter sealing surface. Add to that, the engine conversions crank up the rpm and pressures from the oil pump. By piggy backing the seal you are creating a sort of labyrinth seal to reduce the load on one seal by sealing at 2 points on the torque converter instead of one and hopefully moving the outermost sealing surface away from the "seal groove.


Are you talking about the TC seal on the final drive? How on earth do you fit to seals in there? It's a tight enough fit for one!
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