Dellorto Drip - How the heck?

[Marv [UK]]

I've now had enough of the dell drip on my 36's

My bus has just gone in for a 2 grand resto so it will last for long enough for me to get enough cash together to have the full 20K job done in a few years time but on the way, my motor developed a missfire

Now I know the misfire is probably ignition based given the bus sat for 2 months without being turned over and it wasn't missing before so I know it's nothing too drastic to fix, but now I have the chance, I want to fix my Dell Drip that is getting ridiculous. I mean, both of them fully drain overnight and it's pissing me off.

Before anyone says anything, I can't send my carbs to Art Thraen, not because it's over $100 per carb to fix, no, but because I live on a different continent and postage either way would be over $100.

Besides, I'm capable enough to do it myself as I have a passing knowledge of carbs having rebuilt a few in my time.

The trouble is, I don't know where the 'Dell Drip' originates in the carb. I know it's a corroded lead plug in the guts somewhere, but does anyone have any photos of where it is and a 'shopping' list of what I need to fix it. I've a 1/16" NPT plug tap and steel plugs but is that enough or is it too big. How do you get the little blighters out?

Cheers
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[nathansnathan]

Funny I just posted about this in the 'update' thread, kind of.

What started my problems was the drip

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=405033&highlight=lm1

I've taken things apart about 4 times now and looked everything over. I think the problem is the needle inlet valves. The spring plunger gets cocked, the float gets bent out of adjustment, and the valve never gets closed, is how I think it goes.

I hope the berg glass ball valves will be better than the cb performance replacement inlet valve.

[DarthWeber]

Marv, barring someone showing up here with a 'miracle' cure you could always e-mail Art (or Dave) and ask for their expertise.
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[Marv [UK]]

[nextgen]

Hi I have the same set of 36 since they were in my 914 and have 100k on them and one rebuild.

I don't drive the bug in the winter and when I start it, well when I get it started, ha, it runs on a few cylinders at a time, backfires especially when I let off the gas, loss of power etc.
Also it would be hell to start it.

I say Ok here we go again.
I was told by Art the carb guy to pump it the magic 15 times after the electric pump stops clicking. The car starts almost instantly.

I clean the air cleaner, pull the jets and blow them out. stick a can of Barrymans B12 or seafoam in with a full tank and in 15 mins of trying to keep it running, it all clears. Voom!!! Then on to the highway for a 30 min run at speed to get gum out completely..
I used to go nuts. Not any more, it is what it is. If you dont' run some the stuff through your accel pump and jets get some yellow waxy gook and you will notice poor accel.
Could be something else but that was only a $4.00 fix it tip.
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[Marv [UK]]

[nathansnathan]

Maybe you have something different than I do.

THis, from the shoptalk forums:

[modok]

I've done it, but I don't have any pictures for you.
To get to the offending plug and fix it requires faith.
You have to remove the outside plug.
Then shove a screw into the hole and grab the unseen plug to pull it out.
Then you clean real thorough and glue the unseen plug back in it's proper place.

To at the very least you need to know what size screw to stick in the hole, and where to stick it, to do this deed.

I don't remember what size. The unseen plug is cup shaped though, I remember that much. That's how you can grab it.

[DarthWeber]

[modok]

Yep. Locktite or epoxy. I used epoxy.
Unless you have a source for oversize unseen dell plugs.
I have been running all kinds of fuel parts held together with epoxy and solder and locktite for years. They hold up fine.
And I'm not the only one.
The secret to glueing things is you need a near press fit and lots of surface area. This qualifies.

[DarthWeber]

Ahh, I see!
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[nextgen]

Well, Modok may have the answer, but does not sound easy. I believe that is my problem. If I do not drive the car for a week I have to pump it the 15 times. After that it starts on the first turn of the key. The float bowls drain out and have to be refilled. Mine is not as bad as some people because it takes at least a week to drain. Lead seals , would be logical. They are only a press fit and I can see lead turning into a white power, forming at the contact points from corosion then breaking down and leaking.
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[Type 5 Joe]

Do not put glue in this area.

You would run the risk of really screwing up your carb if you got glue in the wrong place.

I would send these out for repair to a qualified Dellorto specialist.

I can do this, or there are others who know this repair.

This passage is filled from the factory with a .187" diameter lead shot (sphere) that is swedged in place. It is difficult to get to.

I cast a special alloy of lead / antimony in a mold I have created to replace all the lead plugs when I rebuild a DRLA carburetor.

Dead soft lead is too malleable and will not set and stay under vibration, pressure, and other present operating conditions.

I do this to all my Dellorto rebuilds.... Any other way is not truly rebuilt. You would not believe the amount of crap I pull out of carb passages that have been dipped, bead blasted, and made to look "pretty".


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[Marv [UK]]

[Type 5 Joe]

I thought you had Dellorto UK or whatever....They will not help you?

The exchange rate is quite favorable to you U.K. guys.... Has been for a long time, and I wish it was the other way around.

The best way to learn how to do this repair is to sacrifice a crummy Dellorto, run it through the bandsaw and then the milling machine.

This will give you the exploded view you will need.... Even then you will be fishing in the dark when you repair your carb.

Its not easy, but it can be done.

I would still recomend you just send them in to be made brand new again in every possible way.
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[modok]

You sure man? I could swear mine had little cup shaped plugs.
Shoot, now I want to pull one apart and find out.

[Type 5 Joe]

Yes I'm sure...

A cup shaped plug would be extremely difficult to get oriented to go in the hole, way down deep in the abyss.

It gets installed way down in a blind hole.

A round shot shape will go right in, if you are careful.

Usually , the plug will just fall out or will come out if you hit the carb body with a dead blow hammer. They show evidence of fuel corrosion, carb cleaner corrosion, ect...

They are all due to be replaced in my opinion.
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[Marv [UK]]

[modok]

ok, I pulled one out.
SOB didn't come easy. Looks like it WAS a lead ball, bout .138" diameter (3.5mm?), or at least that's what size it is now.
Perhaps the "cup shape" I recall was what it looked like after I drilled and tapped to get the suckers out? My memory is horrible.
I maintain it is possible for you to fix your carbs because I managed it myself once, but I can't remember WTF I did exactly.
Do you want me to cut it up for a cross-section view?

[74 Thing]

Please post photos when you cut it up for a cross sectional view. Thanks.