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Replace pistons and cylinders while i am in here?
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rustfree1967bug
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 11:27 am    Post subject: Replace pistons and cylinders while i am in here? Reply with quote

I have a '67 so42 with a factory exchange/rebuild 1500sp. I tore it down and sent the heads to brothers machine and had them do a full rebuild. I am wondering if before i go ahead and put it back together if i should just go ahead and buy new pistons and cylinders? When i pulled the 3&4 cylinder side head on of the cylinders had a bit of oil in it. Stuck rings maybe? This bus had sat for over 20 years without being ran when i got it. Bus has 89k original miles so the engine has less than that seeing as it was replaced at some point in its life with a new one. I am not splitting the case.
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Stuart Maingot
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

may be a good idea and you could upgrade to 1600 cc easily.
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Braukuche
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stuart Maingot wrote:
may be a good idea and you could upgrade to 1600 cc easily.


Agreed, 1600 Ps and Cs are cheap, so why not?
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have done that on several of mine where the bottom end seemed fine, so I just did fresh heads and new P/Cs. This way you know what you have when you button it all back up.
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crofty
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd change my rod bearings too.
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rustfree1967bug
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wont be splitting the case though so won't be able to replace bearings.
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'66 sunroof beetle
'74 bus
'67 so-42


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crofty
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rod bearing not main bearings. New p/c will have better compression and therefore more downward thrust an already worn bearings.
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rustfree1967bug
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So i can replace rod bearings without opening the case up? What brand of p/c's are best for the money?
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crofty
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rustfree1967bug wrote:
So i can replace rod bearings without opening the case up? What brand of p/c's are best for the money?


Yep . Just replace them with the same size that are in there.
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do the cylinders have a ridge above the top of the position of the top rings?
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 4:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I started using AA and have been very happy. If you do some digging you will find that many of the "go to" brands in the past have changed.
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RPGreg2600
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

While you have the Pistons off, shine a light in the case and make sure your lifters don't look pitted. They often are. Also mage sure your front main bearing isn't loose in the case.
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Braukuche wrote:
Stuart Maingot wrote:
may be a good idea and you could upgrade to 1600 cc easily.


Agreed, 1600 Ps and Cs are cheap, so why not?


Is a set about $250 these days? ah $322 from cip1
Do the old ones still have hatch marks? Do they have a ridge at the top of the piston ring sweep? Metal ridge, not carbon ridge. Do the put a new ring in and measure test. It's in every Bentley and the Idiot book. If you don't have a new ring, use the old top ring.

Yes, replace rod bearings with same size as old. Is there pitting on the face of the bearing shells? worn through to coppery colored? These are signs of wear.

I have just replaced rings and rod bearings if the wear on the ps & cs was light, and the wear on the lower end was minimal. It is a skill to figure out what parts are worn and what is okay to re-use.
What is the end-play?


I think it's odd to say a car has 89K original miles. I hear that sometimes and wonder if the miles were installed at the factory. Is the bus is M-coded for them? like for original safari windows?
Are they German miles? rather than those aftermarket lesser quality miles made in Mexico or the USA?
Maybe only 80K are original, and the other 9K are previous owner installed? How can you tell the difference?
Laughing
I figure you mean the car has 89 K documented actual miles, and I know people use 'original miles' that way, but it just seems funny.
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AAs are $150 and basic Mahles are $199 from CIP1. Not sure what the opinion is of Mahle these days.
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Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Ex-wifes car.
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?search=piston+85.5&Submit=

Yup, there are cheaper options that the first one I saw.
But is it worth $150 or more to get new ones? Depends on the wear.
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crofty
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clara wrote:
http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?search=piston+85.5&Submit=

Yup, there are cheaper options that the first one I saw.
But is it worth $150 or more to get new ones? Depends on the wear.


Cheap insurance.
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dunno - have used Mahles years ago and then started reading on here that they arent as good as they used to be. First set of AAs I got were for my 1200 big bore. I drive the hell out of the car and they seem to be holding up fine. I have not torn the engine down to inspect for wear, but having no apparent problems. And other reviews that I have read on them have been good but I believe that they had issues quite a few years ago. Buy what you are comfortable with, but I have no concerns myself on AAs.
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Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Ex-wifes car.
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...
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rustfree1967bug
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have not pulled the cylinders off yet. I see aircooled.net has these http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Economy-Piston-Cylinder-Set-85-5mm-x-69mm-Cast-p/vw8550t1.htm anyone used those? This bus will see maybe 2500 miles per year at the most. So if i can get another 25k reliable miles out of this engine i would be plenty happy. Also am thinking i should throw a new oil pump in.
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'74 bus
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

crofty wrote:
Clara wrote:
http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?search=piston+85.5&Submit=

Yup, there are cheaper options that the first one I saw.
But is it worth $150 or more to get new ones? Depends on the wear.


Cheap insurance.

To be on the safe side, it should have a complete rebuild.
It is a slippery slope opening up a motor.
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joe cool
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My opinion is it is better to spend your $ rebuilding a different motor or building a new motor while leaving your current one alone and doing its job powering the bus. When the new one is complete and ready... make the swap.
If you remove the motor from the bus and don't put it or another one in pronto you have just moved your bus from "driver" to "project" status and it is a slow spiraling downhill slope from there. Just opinion.

By the way Clara, they are actually called a "bus".
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