Help! Driver's Seat Won't Slide

[cch1]

I'm new to Vanagons (got mine two days ago) so it's possible I've done something stupid. No matter how patient or violent I am, the driver's seat will not slide. It is somewhere towards the rearmost position -but I think there are still a couple of positions more rearward when I compare to passenger seat.

I understand how the slide mechanism works -in fact, I have removed the passenger seat and studied the mecanism in great detail.

I *think* the rear of the driver's seat is too low and binds on the notched bar welded to the seat base -so there is no way it can move forward. Is this a common failure? Is it by design? It just seems about 1/2" lower than the passenger seat.

Another possibility is that one of the four bolts securing the seat rail to the seat bottom has fallen out and jammed in the body-side notched slider -but I was able to slide a very thin (2mm) piece of plastic *inside* this rail all the way to the back so I think it's clear.

I have quadruple-checked that the lock mechanism is lifting properly on both sides -in fact, by virtue of sliding the thin plastic inside the seat rail, I've confirmed the lock bar is *above* the notched body rail.

Despite only having the truck for three days, I could swear the seat slid the day I got it because now it seems a bit too far back for my taste.

Details:

1991 DoKa Syncro 16 with stock seats (no fancy rotating captain's chairs)
Heated Drivers Seat (which does not work)
Ex-Swedish Fire Truck

I am frustrated to the point of considering a sledgehammer, a hacksaw and a crowbar. I've only had the truck for 72 hours and I really would like to resolve this without violence.

[syncrodoka]

Those screws can definitely become loose and jam in the mechanism.
Sitting in the seat and pull up on the release handle and violently attempt to slide it back and forth can sometimes get it loose. I once had my son sit in the seat and pull the release while kicking the seat base from the rear to get it to free up, it was a less damaging option that the BFH(big F hammer) and the screw went flying as the seat was operational again.
I make it a habit to remove and loctite those allen head bolts when a new van comes into my posession.

[MarkWard]

If your considering a sledgehammer, a vw may not be for you. The seat track welded to the chassis if slightly folded at the very rear to act as a stop. That’s where you need to check.

[old_man]

Mine drivers seat was stuck due to rust in the track. It was not fun getting it out. Do you have any pictures you can show us?

[cch1]

[DuncanS]

Syncrodoka is correct. If you pick the seat up the screw heads will come to the underside of the seat rails and you will be able to slide it off. However, a whole lot easier said than done. You may need four big flat blade screw drivers to pry up and then kick with your feet while lying on your back on the floor behind the seat to move it should there be corrosion or deformed plastic slides. May even need the BMFH to hang on the frame to break it free. I remove the plastic slides as there isn't enough clearance for the margin of error for the seats to slide easily--ever. They don't seem to need them. Haven't had any in the last 6 T3's I've had. And yes, do use Loctite when putting them back in.

[RainierSyncro]

On my old Syncro project, the seat didn't slide because two seat bolts came loose and jammed in the track. I was able to finesse one out but the other was locked in so tight that had to ruin the seat to get it out. No biggy, the seat was pretty trashed anyway. Good luck.

[cch1]

Thanks for all of your support. Score: Human 1, Vehicle 0

Using a broom handle, a crowbar and a sledgehammer, I managed to get the seat out.

I must be cursed, because there were TWO items jammed in the rail:first was the forward-most bolt securing the rail to the seat bottom -that one I was able to overcome by lifting with the crowbar and the broom handle just about 1/16" -enough for the head to clear the rail.

The second was one of the clips providing the headrest detentes -but I couldn't see that until the seat was completely removed. A couple of carefully placed blows with the sledgehammer and the seat must have skipped over the clip and I was able to remove the whole thing rearward.

Recall that I have had the truck for less than a week a vaguely recalled having moved the seat. Well, when I removed it and saw what was underneath the seat it was clear that I *did* move the seat because I recognized the items underneath. That means that in less than a week, two items jammed in the rail.

I do not like this design, but I'm happy to have a sliding seat now. I'm taking advantage of the disassembly to shampoo the seats, Loc-Tite the bolts and completely clean out the rails (top and bottom). I'll try some lubricant upon re-installation. I'm debating between Lithium grease (messy and similar to what was already applied, but durable), silicone (probably not effective) and Teflon.

[IdahoDoug]

So, my seats did not slide well and i removed them to find remains of some nice factory plastic shims designed from all appearances to let the seats glide back and forth. With dreams of easy sliding seats, I ordered new shims for both seats, both tracks.

I installed them excitedly. Put the seats back in and tried to slide them. i got one single slide out of them, which caused the metal rails, sharpened with decades of sliding metal on metal, to shave off curlicews of plastic, which immediately stopped the movement. &*%#$. i pulled the seats back off, removed the plastic glide shims and threw them in the trash.

So now when I go around corners the seat shifts a fraction of an inch. But they slide just fine with a bit of grease. I tell you this story so you don't run out and get those pricey bits thinking you'll solve the problem...
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1993 Toyota LandCruiser, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[DanHoug]

i like this for seat tracks:
http://www.starbrite.com/item/ptef-trailer-hitch-lubricant

stays put, doesn't turn to hard wax, slippery.
_________________
-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com

[4Gears4Tires]

After removing my seats to install the butyl sheeting, my drivers seat rocks laterally maybe a 1/4 inch. It doesnt lock securely on both sides. Any ideas? I lubricated the tracks with silicone lube and they slide nicely now. Just this weird little free movement.
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'87 Syncro Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition
'85 Westy Sciuridae Domus Edition

[T3 Pilot]

The seat track shims mentioned above are designed to be installed in only the outboard track.
_________________
1988 Vanagon

The most important part in every vehicle is the nut behind the wheel......

[cch1]

[wbailey2112]

Had the exact same issues with our Westy. Pull the seats completely off the tracks. Clean the tracks out thoroughly and re-grease them liberally but not so much that the grease drips out onto your carpet. If you also have the swivel bases take the time to clean and re-grease the "turntables" while you're in there.

BTW, the shim/glide strips keep things a bit tighter but without grease they just contribute to the seats binding.
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'74 Thing
'83 Westfalia

[SCM]

[riceye]

[IdahoDoug]

T3 - interesting. Nobody seems to know that in vendor land. That would explain why they were immediately a hindrance to moving the seat. Hmm, maybe I"ll try again as the little seat movement on corners is actually pretty annoying.
_________________
1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1993 Toyota LandCruiser, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[Ride-Fly]

Helpful thread as my tintop also has this issue. good stuff!!
_________________
1987 Westy, Dove Blue
1987 Wolfsburg Tintop, Vesuvius Grey (SFO car)
1977 Toyota FJ40, Freeborn Red
2018 Ford F-350 Platinum, Ruby Red Metallic
2017 Mercedes GLE350, Polar White
2013 Mercedes G550, black w/ 4” Fox suspension
2008 Mercede GL550 (Boulder car)

[riceye]

I have a pair of the seat glides in mine (one on each seat). I got them years ago from the local dealership. Honestly, they don't make a big difference either way. They look like this:

What I found interesting is that Buslab also has these. I don't know how they would fit in the channel. I've never seen them before.

I believe Buslab has the wrong picture, as the part number is the same - 251881213. They also specify two per seat.
_________________
'87 Westy Weekender - daily driver on salt-free roads

There's gonna be some changes made.

“I find that things usually go well right up until the moment they don't.” - Ahwahnee

"Quality isn't method. It's the goal toward which the method is aimed." - Socrates, later quoted by R.M. Pirsig

[syncrodoka]